Quote:
Originally Posted by draztic1011
you can just supercharge your RL ....Turbocharging it doesn't make any sense becaues turbo are best useful for manual cars (stick) and supercharge is for automatics you can put a turbo if you want but you'll get better performance by getting a supercharge
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This is ignorant and totally wrong. You shouldn't be allowed to post, anywhere, about anything that matters. I hope the moderators ban you so I don't ever have to read another one of your retarded, misguided, and ultimately false statements. Go back to asking about chrome pillars for your car, and stay your peanut-sized raccoon (shiny-shiny me like a shiny-shiny!) brain away from the performance section.
Proper turbocharging is excellent on any vehicle. Trash-can turbo projects are usually bad on any vehicle and superchargers are too hard to even get on the car by most idiots, that makes them a safer bet (for the idiots).
The only real plus for superchargers are positive displacement/screw-type/roots-type blowers that have absolutely instant off-idle response. The centrif-style blowers have lag just like exhaust driven turbochargers.
There is no peer to a properly set up turbocharger system. IN FACT a turbo on an automatic car can be especially exciting because you can power-brake the car and generate boost at launch...which in an optimal setup effectively beats a crankshaft driven blower in all respects at the drag strip.
Turbochargers also have very little effect on fuel economy at cruise speeds...this cannot be said for superchargers (even with a bypass valve) because all the mass and drag of the parts is constantly on the crankshaft. Unless you have a toyota previa supercharger that has an A/C compressor style clutch, but that's just silly!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesG
any sites info on forced induction legends that are handy? s/c specificly but i will look at anything to help. i noticed some gto/monaro guys over here doing the tt thing with the turbos mounted down under the car near the auto!
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Oh yes, GTO, Monaro, Camaro. S&M-bondage-tight engine bays force drastic measures at times. These cars have largish v8 engines, so they have a lot more heat to waste by the long pipe runs.
My personal feelings about the rear-mount turbo systems:
I would avoid the extra distance if possible.
Please consider you have to run an electric oil return pump and lines to and back from the turbocharger, so if you hit something in the road that snags that line your engine could bleed itself dry of oil in no time flat. If your electric oil return pump breaks/loses power/etc it can at best fill your exhaust and/or intake pipes with oil, but at worst can destroy the seals in the turbo by forcing oil past the seals (there can be NO resistance to oil flow on the return/drain side of the turbo).
If you choose a water cooled turbo, which I would suggest...the same could happen to your cooling system.
The intake also ends up low to the ground and in more danger of sucking up water...which is the bad kind of sucking...I assure you.
These guys who run these rear mounts actually get nicer EGTs...most of the V8 guys run turbine housings that are too small (because they really should run T6 turbos, instead of T4s IMO)...but that shouldn't be a concern for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesG
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What are the specs on this turbo? 'Cause if it was great on your teggy, it's gonna be shite on your RL. It's all about matching things up. I'd be glad to help you with the technical aspects of your setup.
I think twin 60-trim T3s with .48 A/R housings would be nifty...not 'cause it would work well, but because it would be nifty.
Seriously a GT25 turbo with a .082 turbine would be perfect for your car. In an otherwise optimal setup you could see:
4psi ~325+bhp
6psi ~350+bhp
8psi ~380+bhp
10psi ~400+bhp
12psi ~420+bhp
How's that for awesome at any build level. Also the GT25 is a ballistic ball bearing turbo, while it is more expensive, it is the only way to fly.