Quote:
Originally Posted by sam o nela
Yeah I'm probably going to go with an AEM dry flow as well...gotta find one with good measurements....keep in mind that these K&N pictures are solely for measurement and shape comparissons. If I find a reputable dry flow that has a perfect size, it will go here....
Also, I would imagine that the sound between dryer hose and PVC isnt too different...
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Got the bypass valve today. Didn't get a chance to put it on, but I played around with it a little. AEM has a ton of disclaimers saying that they can't guarantee that they'll work with anything but an AEM intake tube, as well as some other stuff, all things that I expected them to say. However, what I didn't expect was their statement that their 3" bypass requires 2 inches of free space around the circumference of the foam filter (the smaller valves aren't much different). I'd have a great deal of trouble finding a single location within my engine bay that will meet that requirement. I guess I'll just put it where I originally planned - I'll have two inches or so around most of it, but it's going to be very tight in a couple of areas, especially next to the battery tray/radiator hose. I'm hoping that the reason behind this requirement is simply that they want to ensure that the valve can take in enough air to avoid a hydrolock condition. Might be a day or two before I get around to it, but I'll post a pic once I do.
Even if my setup isn't optimum, I'm assuming that it's better than nothing at all. I have a test in mind that I'm hoping will shed some light on things. I plan to try something along the lines of leaving the system mounted in the car, disconnecting at the intake and ducting my shop vac there and then removing the filter and extending the tube into a 5 gal bucket of water and see if my shop vac is strong enough to suck up the water and/or open the valve. Not exactly real world, but it should at least give me some idea of whether it will work. Thoughts?