Originally Posted by GrumpySteelMan

Why is that buddy?



1995 944T here. Finally it was a T3/T04e 57-trim, stage 3 clipped turbine .48 a/r, nitrous, SMT6 made by perfect power, getting the ignition to work right was a bit tricky, had to run resistors and use the pull-up wire. The switchable maps and running nitrous with the aux injector driver map was choice. It was a drag with that turbo on the street, but it was just a toy, so it didn't matter.

The major barrier to power is the small 6cm turbine on the factory turbo. A close second is the small compressor.

If you want a cheap option you can find a 15G (TD04HL-15G-7) for about $250 used. You have to remove two studs from the turbine housing and drill the holes and it'll bolt to the factory manifold and downpipe if you use one from a 94-95 850T. Then you rotate the cold side and center section to match up all the factory connections (which all will fit if you have a mitsu TD04HL-13c-6cm, some of the 940s got the crappy little t25, so I can't speak for it). You have to make brackets to relocate the wastegate actuator...still for the money it is a real bang for the bucks mod.

The later model 850 turbos came with a much larger 2-3/4" turbine outlet. You have to build a downpipe to go with it, but it is much much better flowing. This is also true for the 18T/19Ts that came on the later R cars. They will all fit.

I used to modify the turbos for some of the guys over at turbobricks but after getting reverse scammed (Paypal blows) a couple times I quit doing it. If you decide to go that route I'd be glad to help you with the modification and the porting on the turbine inlet and wastegate flapper outlet (it really needs it).

Another big plus to using the 15g is that they have an adjustable arm on the wastegate actuator, so you can set your baseline boost at your pleasure.

If you want a really trick turbo setup (that won't require changing all the oil and coolant lines) you can find an old TD05H-12B and toss the old 12B compressor wheel off and then you can put any of the famous 16G/18G/20G wheels on it with a little machine work to the compressor housing. Plus the turbine itself is larger (hence the TD05) so it will have better exhaust flow when compared to an unported TD04.

If you're not planning on doing nitrous or anything really crazy you should look into simply chipping the ecu and ignition computer in the car. Some of the guys are now running 3" MAF and ford CFI injectors on the stock ecu! If you decide to go that route I think I have a 3" MAF laying around that you can have if you pay shipping. If you go over to turbobricks.com and look up Sam Collier (Roadracer4life) or Mike "Priest" Brown (thepriestmike) and tell 'em I (Eric Simpson, Turbobrick940) sent you, they'll make sure to point you the right directions.



The STS kit is an ok choice and you can safely turbocharge anything with enough work...BUT some of the experts on the Engine Management of the car can chime in. I doubt it would be easy to do it right.



No offense intended, but you're the guy who was previously offering baseless, incorrect advice in this very thread.

I say the rear end turbo is fine for large engines with lots of heat to waste but considering lag and component safety it would make sense to at least attempt a conventional turbo setup. There is no question you could put a rear mounted turbo on the car, but there is much much more to the equation than just component placement and plumbing.