You're going to think I'm busting your balls...
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Originally Posted by Forevralegend
get a dry kit, as long as your not doing a huge shot, your computer will be able to put the right amount of fuel with the nitrous.
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This is a common misconception.
The computer doesn't know the difference between nitrous and air. The IAT sensor might see the colder air temperature. However a MAP sensor won't see any difference in manifold pressure. The MAF/AMM, if you shot the nitrous pre-sensor, it would count for 'air' and not nitrous. The meter would measure it as more air, atmospheric oxygen is 23% by weight. Nitrous is 36% oxygen by weight. This would be an obvious mismatch.
I wouldn't inject nitrous pre-MAF/AMM personally, the supercooled nitrous might damage the sensitive parts.
Using the oxygen sensor to trim the fuel when injecting nitrous wouldn't be effective because optimal nitrous A/F ratio is much lower than NA (usually about 13.5) and equal or lower than turbo/supercharged (12.0-13.0). You wouldn't want the ECU correcting the A/F ratio while on nitrous. This isn't an issue because most ECUs go 'open-loop' and virtually ignore the 02 sensor at WOT.
The purpose of the 02 sensor is to trim the fuel injection for economy and emissions purposes, not as a fuel enrichment device.
The additional fuel is added in a dry system by venting nitrous over to the vacuum diaphragm of the fuel pressure regulator, effectively raising fuel rail pressure to compensate for the extra combustion potential of the Nitrous.
The engines 'computer' is your enemy, if anything, in a dry nitrous system.
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Both kits are dangerous if used incorrectly. For example if you do too big of a shot using a dry kit, your car wont have the capabilities to apply the right amount of fuel with the stock components.
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This is 100% accurate. In fact I would NEVER run a shot of over 100hp nitrous dry. My feelings here are that if you're adding that much nitrous it would be best to mix your additional fuel with the nitrous, so you don't risk overly lean cylinders.
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For a wet kit, you are spraying fuel and nitrous into your manifold which could be dangerous as well since it could cause backfires. So both are dangerous in their own ways.
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Backfiring through the intake is usually a problem with vehicles running high overlap cams and large amounts of nitrous.
YouTube - Nitrous Explosion on Dyno
Although if a fuel solenoid fails and puddles fuel in the intake that's a good way to break stuff quick-like.
YouTube - 14.6 2.2L Chevy Cobalt + Nitrous EXPLOSION!
And just for fun here's some proof you can nitrous anything.
YouTube - Mower Vs Nitrous
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I went with a dry kit because its more of a simple set up, im not gonna run huge shots maybe 60-70 shots, and i have a afc to fine tune it on a dyno.
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I'm also running dry on my RL...just because I have a drivetrain warranty so I wanted to be able to pull it out quick-like.