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So the manifold would bolt to the pass head studs but not the right, it looked as though it was further apart. first thought was that the RLs i manifold was wider, so i went to the j yard and picked it up. i quickly noted the sensor differences, fast idlevalve relocation and the biggest one of all were the radius hole-to channel in the upper inner portion of the i manifold. they looked like individual TB's rather than regular channels like the TYPE I and II. A lot better intake manifold design in my opinion. i took it home layed it on and it didnt fit either, thats when it hit me, the deck height was taller and so it must mean the Legend heads are taller than the RL's heads, and that folks it were this whole project gets real custom.
I opt for the RL's imanifold even though mine is ported and polished, i love the relocation of the fast idle valve, no fast idle tube and the real cool radius cut channels, beside i would get some money back from my p&ped type II to pay for the custom work about to be done to the rl manifold. im Sorry for all you true legend fans out there but i had another type two stock i manifold and i sacrificed it to the hack saw gods in order to figure out how i was going to make the rl i. manifold fit.
It came down to lacking 3/8 in from left to right. so what i did was split the difference 3/16 each side(centered it by sloting all 8 bolt holes on the i. manifold. the end of each runner was bearly covering the intake ports on the head, so i had 3/8 weld added to the end of each runner, added weld on the inside back of the runner and lastly shaved diagonally so that it basically lengthened the runners. granted the injectors are poping out more torwards the center of the head intake ports it wa the best that could be done on a budget.
Next up was extending the water passage that accomanies the I.manifold. i layed it accross the heads and made marks, i cut them on eithr side od the part that plugs into the thermostat housing. bolted each side down and used plumers strap with self tapping screws to create the spacing needed to be welded. once welded i had to gring a lot of the i. manifold and the passage to make the passage bolt holes line up. i ended up having to drill out the water passage bolt holes bigger to give me more bolt range. it was a shame when i was pouring coolant and it started to leak out one side of the passage. the passage obioislywasent wlded perfectly flat and so it was creating a gap. first solution was to grind some more. didn work. final solution after trying others was to buy gasket material and make another gasket to offset the gap.
At that moment everything finally came together, i started her up and listend to it pur. Not a tick was heard. again like most of the rebuilds ive done to this legend i never trip a check engine light and it started on the first try. however i was leaking some oil from the front og the engine behind the ac compressor.
I completed the rest of the car in drivable form and took her out on her maiden voyage. car felt the same driving normal-gentle for about 15 minutes i slowly gave it gas(Stock ECU) and let go to feel any differnces, little but i noticed some extra -small punch. granted i was giving it very little throttle.
later that night after putting on the hood and establishing the car was leaking nothing other than some oil, i took her out again with a friend. Normal cruise again until he hit a stop light. i tell my friend to watch the throttle % on the apexi SAFC, when it turned grean i mashed it only 47% and to my astonishment i light up the tires like i was droping the clutch in 1st on a manual. amazed by my new found torque i got a little more risky and did it again at 58% throttle, once again i lite them up. not getting to carried away right before arriving home i floored it for a breif moment, the high stal torque converter live up to expectations and riped through all of 1st half of 2nd and squealed 3rd.
Yes life is good with a 3.5 lt Legend Hybrid.
Further driving proves this whole swap was a huge sucess, although it involves lot of customization it can be done.
price breakdown
I got a deal on pratically all of this stuff
600 short block
100 I manifold
25 RL mount
250 clean out inspection and lifter check and replace on my existing TYPE II heads(this was nessasary since i had lots of previous lifter ticks due to the compound used for the previous copper HG's)
50 acura RL HG's
50-100 (free for me- machine shop hook up)custom mount merge
250 i manifold weld,resurface radius and gasket match ports only
175 fluids-paint atf-engine oil coolant,ps
600 Level 10 high stall TC
cost 401 sold 300 lost 100 Level 10 PTS kit
50 misc drill bits taps etc
around 2300 total
More driving establishes the fact this car has huge balls now off the line i can stall at 2300 and totally rip the tries through 1& 2 or i can just punch it while at a stand still or at 40 mph- the end result is the RPM's hit between high 3k-mid 5k depending on engine speed and totally take off. mid 14 second car or faster N/A for sure.
here come 12's
post anything now.
~True Hybrid
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AEM EMS Powered. 9 yrs and counting. Results, Where are yours? 12.953@107.865MPH 95 deg. Jun. 07'
3.5 6spd-#55 jet Nitrous 316WHP@5500RPM 345Lb-ft@4100RPM NOS 06-07'N/A 234WHP@5700RPM 229lb-ft@4600RPM 06-07'
13.782@99.135MPH N/A 95 deg. Jun 07'
03' G35c Auto Vortech Supercharged pshhhh 311WHP 274WTQ13.1@102MPH-on the brakes(108MPH)
Hand fabbed Go-Kart 18whp 24wtq
8 page spread Honda Tuning 09-06' issue
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My Legends Website www.2slik4u.com
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