I ran out of space so I'll continue here. I think I'm going to have to build a web page for this..... Anyway..... 
18. This is the part that is going to piss you off. You need to unbolt the EGR tube at the manifold. Don't try to do it at the egr side. No room to work off those rusted bolts. I was able to get a 3/8" air wratchet down in there and with some bullying I got the 10mm socket on there and worked the nuts off. Be creative here cause it's a tight work area. If that's not enough you need to disconnect the brackets that hold the wiring harness clips to the back of the manifold and left valve cover. The hardest bolt to get to is the one sitting behind the Trans dip stick tube. What a pain in the azz to get off. Notice how I bent the dip stick tube bracket out of the way to get in there. Have fun. I'll post a pic of this area. It's easier if I show you. Bottom line for this section is to get everything off that intake manifold. It's almost time to pull it off. Here is an open view after removal that shows all the disco points back there.
19. At this point you should be ready to remove the intake manifold. Double check all your hoses and wires are disco'd. I think we're looking at 12mm bolts here. Remove all bolts and nutz at points in pics below. I think I got them all there but use your eyes on your own car. Once you have them all out use a screw driver or pry bar and begin to seperate it from the heads. Make sure you are not prying on anything mating surfaces or things that can break. Just take your time and go around the thing like a can opener. It will loosen and you should be able to pull it of by hand.
20. Once you have the intake off you should be looking like the pic below. This has got to be one of my favorite pics. Look at that clogged EGR tube!!!!(I exploded the pic of it in top left corner) Wonder what problems that has been causing????? Can't be good. Also those intake ports are worse than my bbq grill from last year. This is another reason to have this job done. I can just see the wasted power that was happening in here.
CAUTION: Here is where I wasted $250.00. See those 2 knock sensors? Use a wrench and carefully take them out immediately. Do not slip and hit the plastic piece. These items are $140.00 each. If you break them you bought em'!!!! I was so stupid and anxious to get those heads off that I left them on while removing the heads and cracked them both. What makes it so bad is I used to work for a research company that built these things and I used to make 100's of em. I should have known better but now you will. I took one on the chin for my fellow LEGEND owners.
21. Now we are going to set the #1 piston to TDC and then remove the cam sprocket covers. Remove the spark plugs(Now's a good time to do a tune up. Buy some new plugs. I got the NGK IX Iridiums. They seem to have a lot of a$$). If you are doing the timing belt and/or water pump, you should already have the crankshaft tool.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html . We're going to use this to rotate the crankshaft. If you don't have this you can however use a 19 or 17mm(can't recall) socket directly on the crank bolt. Either way you will need to remove the shield thing(I don't know it's name) that is sitting directly in front of the crank pulley that is preventing you from getting your breaker bar down there. Of course you will need to move the wiring harness back over the engine. It's in your way now.
22. Now that you have your breaker bar connected to the crank pulley(Harmonic Balancer) WHATEVER, now comes my Macguyver trick to getting that #1 piston TDC without a compression tester or looking for those hard to see TDC marks on the pulley. Take a long metal rod that is skinny enough to fit down in the spark plug hole and long enough to petrude out at least above the valve cover and carefully slide it down into the #1 plug cavity. Rotate the crank shaft slowly clockwise and watch the pole go up then down. Of course when the pole rises to it's highest point, stops, then begins to go down:::STOP::: you are at TDC!!!! Get it as close to the mid point as possible. Go counterclockwise,clockwise till you get it right before the drop. If you didn't know already, the rod is sitting right on top of the piston
It's a wrap. Move on.
23. Move your wiring harness/injectors back off the engine. Remove the cam sprocket covers. All 10mm. Loosen the timing belt tension bolt 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Use your hand and push down on the right side(passenger side(last time I'll clarify)) upper timing belt. This will release the tension and allow you to slip the belt off the cam sprockets. It should slip off pretty easy so if it's still tight, you didn't do it right. Try loosening the tension bolt a little more but don't take it out. You'll get it.
24. You will now need your impact wrench to remove the cam sprockets 12mm. Please be carefull not to have the wrench set to tighten(CLOCKWISE) cause you will F'up your head(check it a couple times please). You can use hand tools but it's much easier to use the impact because the cams want to turn with your force. I got these bolts out in less than a minute, both sides.
AND WE ARE NOT USING IMACT WRENCHES TO PUT BOLTS BACK ON EVER!!!! Pull them(cam sprockets) off and once off you will want to store them with the bolts still in the holes as not to mix them up.
25. Unbolt the crank/cyl sensor from the left cam shield. 3 bolts in pic. Notice the black sludge thats on there. It's hardened and I'm not sure what that is. Anyone???? I'll just blame that sh*t on the dealer. I just left it be. Causing no harm. Pull the shields a little towards you holding at the top. Just wiggle them off. You'll hear the rubber seals seperate and they come off pretty easy. You'll be replacing those seals during reassembly.
25a. Let's talk about timing for a second. I marked my belt and sprockets b4 I took them off just in case. However all timing marks for the cams are on the sprockets and shields. I just lined them up as best as possible during reassembly. Notice in the pic where my left timing sprocket was off. I'll PIN this one on the dealer as well. MF'as... I guess now I know why my car had lost some power
I'm no certified mechanic but that sh*t does not look right to me.
Larger PIC
http://blacksmithllc.com/acura/timinglarge.jpg
25b.
I forgot to include removing the alternator and steering pump brackets. I'll put this in later. I have to get some good pics for this part.
26. Now comes the fun part, removing the heads. If you want to remove the rockers and cams go ahead. It's strictly preference.(reference the bolt sequence below) I left them on until after the heads were off. FYI: Bolts are 10mm and 12mm.
HEADS: Let's start by breaking out your breaker bar and a deep 14mm impact socket(i'll post a pic of the perfect setup). Your going to have to break these bolts free a little bit at a time in sequence as not to warp your heads. Better safe than sorry at this point. If you have everything out of the way you should be able to get that bar and socket to every bolt on the head(8 per side). SQUARELY place the socket on each bolt and put some azz in to it and break those bolts free(counterclockwise please). If you haven't been working out get someone who has been to break em' free. I don't recommend extending this with a leverage bar for control reasons. You don't want to be off center with your socket on these bolts. When you feel each bolt move a little stop and move on to the next one until all are starting to turn. At this point loosen them a little more in sequence until tension is minimal. Once loose a little you may want to switch to a 1/2" ratchet to get them all the way out. Air wratchet is fine.
THESE PICS ARE THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE SO DO IT BACKWARDS FOR LOOSENING. HEADS 8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1..ETC.... ROCKERS 22-21-20-19..ETC..
27. Now once you have all the head bolts out you are going to have to pry the head loose. DO not put any pry tools on the head mating surfaces. again <----... Crack it open slowly until it starts to seperate. Find those points where you can cause no damage to the heads and block and make it happen. It takes a little working but they will seperate. Once you have them seperated you have to lift them off(coolant should pour out a little). Now since we left the exhaust manifold on it's going to be heavy. I would suggest getting help. I pulled them out by myself. That's just me though
Be careful not to bang things up too much on the way out. ESPECIALLY THE OXYGEN SENSORS. Pay close attention to them and you will not break them. They are just as bad as the knock sensors as far as cost. Luckily I didn't break mine so neither should you. Put the heads on some cardboard or newspaper as they are filthy. Oh again don't lay them on the oxygen sensors.
BLOCK AFTER HEAD REMOVAL
27a. Here is the problem with the head gasket. Notice the deterioration in the gasket that was allowing the air from the cylinder to get into the coolant. Look closely and you'll see the ring seperated from the rest of the gasket. If the compression is leaking I was definitely losing power. Now based on my story above it should all be making sense now. Could this be you as well. I remember someone else having the same problem with cyl #3. It's great when you can see your problem and be on your way to fixing it. When I saw this my confidence level went up and rang the bell. I can fix this. Also are a few more pics of the heads right after I took them off the block.
28. Hit bolts for exhaust with WD40 prior to removal. If you haven't already remove exhaust manifold shields( 2 Bolts on each 12mm) Then remove the exhaust manifolds at the head. Set them to the side.
29. You should now be able to sit the heads down flat and begin removing the cams and rockers if you haven't already. Just be sure to follow the sequence in the pic I provided earlier to prevent warpage. Be very carefull with this stuff as this is your valve lifeline. Store the cams and rockers safely away. Remove all the brackets and hoses because now you are preping the heads for delivery to your local machine shop.
30. Ok so you have the heads off and have some time to kill while your heads are being worked on. Well actually you don't. Now is a good time to replace your timing belt and water pump. First thing you have to do is remove that hard as h*ll to get off harmonic balancer(HB). You should have the radiator out already. In order to get the tools on the HB your going to have to remove the front engine mounts and bracket. You'll also have to place a floor jack under the engine and lift it up a little to clear the car frame. Be sure to place a wooden block between your jack and the engine. We don't want to damage that beatiful engine! Picture below.
31. Your going to need the holding tool coneected to a 1/2 inch wratchet with a long black iron pipe over the wratchet for leverage. Grab your breaker bar with the appropriate size impact socket and iron pipe to extend this as as well. Safety is a must during this procedure so grab some help. What I did was place a cardboard box on the passenger side quarter panel, put the holding tool on with wratchet and had my help hold the bar steady as I used the breaker bar to break that bolt free. Why a cardboard box you say? Well I didn't want to fight with my help I only needed control of the force. So as I was pushing counter clockwise with my breaker bar the other pipe moved until it was smashed into the box where it could move no further. This prevented any damage to my quarter panel as this was the solid surface I needed to prevent the shaft from turning. This way all the force I was putting on the bolt was being applied to the bolt and not my help. I heared a big snap! and the bolt was loose. Just be carefull here because you don't want to slip and get hurt using all that force. I think it's 175ft pounds tightened. Make sure your sockets and tools are straight and flush before laying into it. I went out a bought a heavy duty impact wrench but never ended up using it so I'm not sure if this will get it off or not. If anyone else has success with this let us know. I took it back to the store for a refund.