Type I to Type II swap, JDM swap, a little hybrid info
(Dv8 you’re the man for pioneering the Hybrid I saw the RL post
)
Ok I took on the challenge of seeing how hard it really was to find the information people want about the swap to a (JDM or USDM) Type II, and hmm it was a little harder than I thought since much of the information is a few or more months back and you kinda have to know what (or who) you are looking for plus some info was less accurate than other info so here is what I put together for new members that decide they have an interest in going with a JDM or USDM Type II swap. Sorry it is in no way a DIY and very much out of order but does answer a lot of the questions I have seen recently.
Quick short note on how to tell it is a JDM Type II (for the most part)
Has a Honda oil cap not like standard USDM and there is an H on the driverside fuel rail cover, and if it is not yet installed and you get the long block the wiring harness is on the (USDM) drivers side.
Courtesy of Kenso
“1. Removing the PAIR system. The Type 1 uses an air injection setup that the Type 2 doesn't use. On the Type 1 there is a pipe from the PAIR valve to the driver's side exhaust manifold. As long as your Type 2 comes with the exhaust. manifolds you will eliminate this pipe easily. If you had to reuse your Type 1 exhaust. manifolds for some reason then you would need to block off the hole for the pair pipe. You also need to cap off the vacuum line that controls the PAIR valve since it is no longer used.
In addition, you will need to swap over your existing USDM engine wiring harness, the main connectors on the JDM harness are on the wrong side for our purposes. Also you will want to swap over your passenger side valve cover. The USDM valve cover has a temperature sensor on the back that the JDM motor lacks. Simply swap the valve covers and the problem is solved.
2. Yes. The issue has to do with the layout of their cars, being right hand drive. The ecu and wiring is on the opposite side, regardless of Type 1 or 2. Swapping the harness and valve cover takes care of it so it's not really a big deal.
Courtesy of Soulman
A. This swap can be done in a weekend provided you don’t break anything and get past the rusty exhaust bolts quickly enough, and have at least 1 helper. I had no help at all. Had to ask a kid walking down the street to help me push the hoist forward during installation. The most time consuming part was removing the y pipe bolts, the rusty y pipe to cat bolts, and the rear tranny mount.
1. try to do the swap inside the garage, it is really hard to move the hoist under the load of a v6 motor+ tranny on a paved driveway. If u really have to , wait till the sun is about to go down, it did make a difference for me. The hoist wheels didnt sink into the driveway as much as when i tried to do this in the afternoon
2. For 5 speed tranny installation, it will be very hard for you to align the tranny main shaft with the splines on the clutch disc. The easiest way to do this is to tilt the engine and make it stand upright, front facing down. use pieces of plywood underneath each engine mount and throttle body. Drop the tranny on from the top and it will go in right away. get a helper and while holding the tranny, bring everything back down. 2 healthy guys, non smokers should do it
3. for the extension shaft installation, screw in a bolt ( any bolt that fits in, u can use the one from the midshaft mount). Once tight, you can turn the shaft by turning the ratchet to the right ( as if you are still tightening the bolt), and pushing it down at the same time. You will reach a point where the splines on the extension shaft make contact with those on the Diff. That is when u use a deep socket , hammer, and bang the extension shaft into place, past the set ring. How do you know the shaft is in? turn the bolt a little you screwed into the shaft. you will notice that the axle mounting points on the diff. will also turn. you down have to turn a hole lot. Take the screw out, put the shaft cover back into place.
4. Engine removal: if you want to remove the midmounts while the engine is still in, remove the rear tranny mount, unbolt the mid mounts. You want them out because you don’t want to damage them while removing the engine. i used a hydraulic jack to jack up the tranny, which in turn will raise the level of the engine near the subframe. Remove the mounts and u can place piece of wood in their place. Use a load leveler. raise the engine tranny a bit, then tilt it with the load leveler. Move it forward, then tilt all the way, raise it up. Be careful not to hit the AC condensor. while tilting if the front mounts hit the consider, u can push the hoist back a bit. you can also unbolt the front mounts from the motor to make more room.
5.Installation is similar. Tilt the motor ALL the way with the load levler. move it forward, enough that the tranny just very close to the firewall. Lower the engine tranny. Once the tranny is near the tunnel, u can ask a helper to push down on the tranny a bit so that it goes into the tunnel, Once slightly in, u can lower the motor and push the hoist back at the same time. Don’t lower the engine/tranny all the way yet. Once the tranny is almost into the tunnel, u need to level the engine/tranny using the load leveler. once the top of the tranny starts hitting the tunnel, lower the hoist a bit you will get to a point where the engine/tranny is leveled, the tranny is in all the way in the tunnel, and the height is just about right for the front mount brackets to be dropped onto the front mounts. lower everything into place. It took me about 25 minutes to wiggle things into place. During the process, your oil filter might hit the frotn subframe, so dont install a good one just yet! install the front mount nuts, but don,t tighten yet. use a jack underneath the tranny, lift it up to make space for the mid mounts. to help you align the mounts with the tranny, you can move the jack.
Also, when you are removing/installing the engine. tranny, you might want to lower the level of your/ In this way its easier to move the hoist. Once done, you can jack up the car higher to make space for you to work from underneath.
6. if you are swapping your harness over to the JDM motor, use a sharpie and mark the connector and sensor plugs with a number. For example. i numbered the ITS # 1 its connector #1 as well. This way, when you swap your harness over, u can look back at your old motor for reference and you will know exactly where the plugs go. Same applies to vacuum hoses. there is a number on each vacuum hose, mark that number above its position on the old motor's intake manifold or wherever they go. So in this way u don’t have to look at the PDF file, u simply look at your old motor as a reference.
7. On the jdm motor, the Cam sensor ( which goes behind the driver side camshaft gear) connector was different. The connector on the sensor as well as the connector on your USDM harness is Male. You can 1. swap your old sensor out if you will be doing your timing belt change. or do what i did since i got lazy.. Cut the male connector from the USDM sensor, and the male connector from the JDM harness. make bridge connector. I’ll post a pic of this later.
8. I have a JDM alphatouring, and my cruise control cable did not want to fit. I have left it disconnected for now, but i believe someone posted this already, use your old throttle body. I will check the cable at the cruise control motor end, see if i can loosen it a bit and make some slack. Otherwise, i'll swap out my TB with the type 1 when i do my water pump and timing belt, still waiting for the parts to arrive from the US.
9. Plug off the #7 hose that used to plug into the Pair valve. for diagrams go to DV8's website. Also, swap the passenger side valve cover.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/re...?id=2103149044 pics from Soulman
Courtesy of LS92Sedan
Make sure if you need to order parts for you motor that u order them for a 94-95 GS sedan or 93-95 coupe. If your mechanic gives you some b.s. about not being able to use the Type II manifold, slap him, seriously, and slap him hard, you do not need to remove ANYTHING in order for the swap to work other than the pass valve cover and completely remove the Type I pair system, also, have him use the Type I crank pulley, it is lighter than the Type II. Dont let him b.s you about emissions, my JDM Type II with US Type I ecu passed sniffer here in WI and I can scan a copy of my test if he needs confirmation. Hope this helps, if you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
Mounts would be a good time to inspect while you are at it, and also remember to do the timing belt and water pump. Also, if your engine did not come with the accessories then you would need to swap these over too. And be sure about your motor mount style on the new engine block. If it is different than the one you currently have swapped then you would need to swap these too. Also, hoses would need to be swapped and so forth.
Courtesy of my research off and on forum info.
With the mileage there is really no true way to tell how many miles are on the engine, but there is a usage of deductive logic in Japan the average vehicle is driven about 2,000 miles per year (small island and not much driving like here) coupled with the fact that the engine I have came from a 93 thru 95 (prod yrs.) you could say 13yrs old x 2,000= 26,000 approx. miles then they error on the side of more than less and bump it up another 10k and say 30 to 40k as far as other items. the engine will be shipped as a long block and will have almost everything still attached (if thru a1) I recommend replacing all the hoses, filters and belts, spark plugs (denso double platinum/NGK) pricey but always giver better than what she had which too were denso, flush all your fluids even in the tranny and power steering. if you have a type one tranny the engine will bolt directly to it diff and all.
And you can still use the ECU and chip from the type 1 as it talks to the type 1 trannny (speaking loosely) many have claimed that there is some minor shifting roughness in the auto tranny when the Type I USDM ECU is used. My recommendation (selfish plug) Go with the Telion chip. I am running my chip in my JDM Type II with a Type I USDM tranny and a Type I ECU mapped to perform with the JDM Type II engine. And I love it! This can also benefit those who swap from a USDM Type I to a JDM Type I, or for that matter anyone.
As far as differences they are subtle but enough to make a leery mechanic panic here is a thread that explains why and the work involved,
http://acura-legend.com/vbulletin/sh...c+jdm+eng ine
also good pics of what it looks like on the crate.
but the nice aspect of it all is that if you get it where I got mine you know what your getting with a compression tested engine and better warranty than most co. offer, I am not a rich guy so I do a lot of homework before I am willing to put a $2.5K in a car that cost me $2.5K You will also have a heater core hose some Y-pipe gaskets, and a return heater hose that you will need to replace if it is stuck and needs to be cut off. All in all well worth it (qualifier if you need to swap your engine)
Courtesy of DV8
A growing number of you all are buying Legends because of their depreciated value and wanting to swap TYPE II engines or parts from it to make it more powerful well, i have news for you all, it may not entirely be worth your while. I pioneered the TYPE II setup back in 99' so my credentials speak for themselves.
The TYPE II is a bit better on paper, but the 30hp more the manufacture claims is hardly that. I like the TYPE II because the manifold is cleaner with less vacuum sensors and such, however when compared to the RL manifold its the RL that is cleaner. This obviously has nothing to do with HP. As for airflow, there should be no doubt that a port and polish on any of these manifolds will do just fine. The RL again comes up supreme in my opinion because of the way the manifolds runners are radiused. Also completely removing the VIS is an option for top end power on any of the manifolds. More info on that as i get more driving [time]in my car. As for the heads the TYPE II are the best, but by a very small margin vs. the TYPE I. 1mm bigger fuel valves, better exhaust manifolds, and a bigger fuel rail is about it, not much considering the level of work.
Comparing the components that matter the bottom end is identical vs. TI & TII.
(my addition I think the JDM Type II has a little larger Y-Pipe)
Bottom line if you have to replace the entire engine because of necessity by all means go TYPE II, but if your looking for HP there are way better mods out there to give it to you such as, intakes, exhausts, ECU upgrades etc.
Anytime you go porting this engine out expect to lose TQ, and on a car like this that may not be something you’re willing to lose unless you go all out.”
If anyone else feels the need to jump in and add to this please do!
PS I hope everyone I quoted is ok with that being that all the above quoted people were quoted from posts in threads that many are told to search for. :angle:
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