Engine Computer Chipping DIY; ECU Socketing & Removal NO 56K!

sr5guy · 11-22-06, 08:14 PM

Socketing Tools and Supplies

• 10mm Deep Socket
• 6” & 3” Extension
• Ratchet
• Phillips and Flathead Screw Driver
• Sharp Pick tool
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Anti-Static Wrist Strap & Mat, optional but recommended
• Hot Air Gun / Heat Gun
• 3 – 4 Stripped bread ties or DIP IC removal tool
• DIP 28pin Machined Pin Socket
(cheap leaf pin socket WILL NOT work - melts)
• DIP 28pin Low profile ZIF socket (optional, you will need this _in addition_ to the above)
• 30 Watt soldering iron (radio shack)
• 22ga (super thin) 60/40 Rosin Core solder (radio shack)
• Solder wick (radio shack – optional)

Programming Supplies and Software

If you do not have access to a pre-programmed chip, you will have to program your own. You are welcomed to contact other board members or myself for a pre-made chip with aftermarket fuel/ignition maps at a reasonable cost.

• 27SF512 or compatible EPROM Chip recommended
• Suitable Chip Programmer - Moates BURN1
The Moates BURN1 is easy to use for the novice. This device also comes with the easy to use Flash/Burn Software. There are cheaper alternatives (Willem.org) but they are more difficult to use and have buggy software.
• Beavedit 2 Software
• Aftermarket fuel and ignition map program or modify your own.

Interchange

If you are not confident, or if this is your first soldering project, I wouldn’t recommend doing this to your main ECU or practicing on an old circuit board. I would recommend obtaining a spare ECU. Note that there are many types and models of ECU’s for theses car, but by chipping it the individual model number no longer matters (the model number is the revision of the chip)

If you have a 91-92 Coupe or Sedan you can use:
A 91-92 Type I ECU
A 93-95 Type I ECU (note that these ECU’s have a nicer auto transmission program and more refined and updated programming)

If you have a 93-95 Sedan you can use:
A 93-95 Type I ECU
A 93-95 Type II ECU (need type I .bin file)

If you have a 93-95 Type II coupe, without TCS, you can use:
A 93-95 Type I ECU (need type II .bin file)
Any 93-95 Type II ECU

If you have a 93-95 Type II coupe, WITH TCS, you can use:
A 93-95 Type II ECU WITH TCS
(A 93-95 Type I or Type II ECU without TCS could be used, but some additional components will have to be soldered onto the board to support TCS. Look out for a DIY for this soon)

Removing the ECU

A. Remove the three screw-clips holding the trim panel underneath glove box, remove the panel.

B. Lift up on the front of the door sill plate. Remove the passenger side kick panel.

C. Pull back the carpet as far as possible.

D. Remove the four 10mm nuts holding the metal bracket on.

E. Lift up on the metal bracket slightly, enough to slide your hand under it and release the electrical connector on the black box (fan control unit) that is attached to the bracket. It may be easier to slide the black box off of the bracket. Be careful as there are sharp edges on the bracket.

F. Remove the bracket from the car, pull the bottom of the bracket out first, otherwise the top of it will hit the dash. Be careful handling it because the sharp edges will cut or scratch your leather / fingers.

G. Remove the 4 connectors from the right side of the ECU. If you have an auto transmission there will be an additional 5th blue connector on the left. If the connectors are difficult to remove, first push the connector into the ECU firmly, then depress the button and remove the connector.

Getting Prepared

A clean, spacious workbench is required.
Preferably, a table with an anti-static mat spread out.
You will need a cup or a dish for the screws removed from the ECU.
Also, you should have a soldering iron stand so that you don’t get burned.
If your check engine light is on before you start this project, get it fixed first.

Breaking down the ECU

1. Remove 5 Screws from top cover.

2. (A/T only) Remove 5 screws from transmission daughterboard.

3. Remove the 5 screws from the side case of the ECU.

4. Remove 5 screws from the bottom cover.

5. Remove 8 screws from the lower ECU board.

6. (A/T only) Tilt the transmission board and remove and set aside the bracket.

7. This is the ROM chip that you will be extracting.

Extracting The Chip

8. Strip three bread-ties, skip this step if you have a DIP IC removal tool.

9. VIDEO: Pass the stripped bread tie wire under each side of the ROM chip. Be careful not to scratch the PCB board with the wire. Twist them together so that you have something to pull up on. You will be re-flowing the solder on this section of the board, so the point of doing this is so that you have a place to pull up on the chip without disturbing other sections of the board.

10. The wires should be set up like this:

11. Heat the ROM chip for approximately 1 minute on high heat. Make sure that you keep the heat gun a few inches from the chip. It is critical to keep the heat gun moving and heat both sides of the chip. Keep upward pressure on the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers the whole time. This will indicate exactly when the solder has flowed (the chip will release from the board) therefore, you will not be able to over-heat the board.

12. This is what you want the pads to look like. By far, this is the cleanest most reliable method to extract a chip without destroying it.

Installing The Socket

13A. OPTION 1. Have a socket ready (with straight pins) and immediately press the socket in after the chip is removed. If it doesn’t go in, do not force it! Go to OPTION 2. By forcing and bending the board with it heated you risk failed or cold solder joints on the surface mount MCU (the two square chips).

13B. OPTION 2. Allow the board to cool for 5 minutes. Use de-soldering wick or vacuum soldering gun to clear the pads of solder. Insert the socket and solder it in place.

14. Turn the board over after cooling for 5 minutes and apply a small amount of solder to the socket and any other components in the area that appear to have been re-flowed (usually grey, not shiny).

15. Install the ZIF socket (optional) and re-assemble the bottom board inside of the ECU case, install the bottom cover and the 5 screws on the side of the case.

Wrap it up & Test Drive

16. If you are using a ZIF socket on an Automatic ECU you will have to shave a part of the transmission board connector off in order to clear the ZIF socket. I used a sharp razor blade to shave a small amount of the connector off at a time.

17. Reinstall the stock chip back into the ZIF socket.

18. Reinstall the transmission board and top cover with 1 screw each, reinstall the ECU into the car and start it up. If there is no check engine light and the car runs properly, you have successfully socketed the ECU

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Programming the Chip

1. Insert the stock ROM chip into the Moates Burn1 Programmer.

2. Open the Moates FlashBurn program and click "Read Chip".

3. Click "Verify Chip w/ Buffer" Make sure it says that it was successful.

4. Click Save "Save Buffer to File".

5. Type in the name of your program, I usually name it with the model number of the ECU and click "Save" In this case "PY3-A55.BIN".

6. Open the BeavEdit 2 Rom Editor Program. Click on the "Open" icon Button.

7. Select the File that you just saved with the FlashBurn program, in this case "PY3-A55.BIN", and click "Open".

8. You are brought back to the main BeavEdit window. Click on the "Settings" icon button.

9. Check the boxes that are circled, which should be by default, and click "Import Data".

10. Open the Aftermarket .BIN file that you would like to import the settings from and click "Open".

11. Close the settings box, and then return to the main window. Click the "Save" icon.

12. Enter a file name, in this case "PY3-A55 MODIFIED.BIN", Click on "Save".

13. Unlplug the USB cable from the programmer. Install a blank 27SF512 chip. Reconnect the USB cable.

14. Open a new instance of the FlashBurn program. Select "27SF512" chip (if this is what you are using). First click on "Erase Chip". Then Click on "Blank Check" Make sure this is successful. Finally, click on load file to buffer.

15. Load the file that you just saved with Beavedit2 in this case, "PY3-A55 MODIFIED.BIN".

16. Click on "Program Chip".

17. Click on "Verify Chip w/ buffer", make sure this is successful.

Install the chip in your ECU and your done!!!

Double Glow · 11-22-06, 08:21 PM

Amazing DIY!!! +1up!!! Im sure alot more ECUs will be chipped because of this!

Alperovich · 11-22-06, 08:30 PM

Sweet write up!

nupe07 · 11-22-06, 09:43 PM

Outstanding! Thanks.

one,

misdeismo · 11-22-06, 10:25 PM

nice, and i just scored an extra 6 speed ecu.

GreekPower · 11-22-06, 11:37 PM

wow now thats how u do a DIY, props... time to do this

sr5guy · 11-23-06, 01:06 AM

Updated with programming info. If you think I should divide this up into another thread, just let me know. This DIY took me almost 2 weeks, I am so relieved that its done. Thanks for the comments guys!

Telion · 11-23-06, 01:32 AM

Wow awesome write up, very thurough!

OverDrive · 11-23-06, 02:04 AM

f in nice dude..... a good step for us to understand our ecu

acc-unit · 11-23-06, 05:13 AM

This might be one of the best write ups i have EVER seen, awesome work man!

whyteLegend · 11-23-06, 09:57 AM

Nice very nice....

RLType2 · 11-23-06, 03:19 PM

Any idea if this same process and software will work on the 96-04 3.5RL ECU?

Steve

sr5guy · 11-23-06, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLType2

Any idea if this same process and software will work on the 96-04 3.5RL ECU?

Steve

I'm pretty sure it won't directly. If you can get me some high resolution pictures of your ECU with visible numbers of the chips, I may be able to examine it and determine if it uses a ROM chip or internal ROM. Since it is OBD2, it may be as simple as re-flashing the ECU. Do you know if the RL ECU uses an internal transmission controller? Another possible idea is an OBD2 -> OBD1 conversion harness and use a chipped Legend ECU.

-Matt

blkonblkcpe · 11-23-06, 05:08 PM

Wow, just wish I understood "NERD". But I speak english!

J/K...nice DIY, but I swear this computer shit is for the under 25 ages!

SquaL · 11-23-06, 08:58 PM

Excellent job... I never would have thought of using hot air gun. Now I will get to work on my spare ECU. Thanks.

11-22-06, 08:14 PM	#1 (permalink)
sr5guy Legend Agent Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,637 Car 1: 95 BMW 740I Car 2: 91 L Sedan Rosewood Car 3: 91 LS Cpe 3.5 sold iTrader: (32)	Engine Computer Chipping DIY; ECU Socketing & Removal NO 56K! Socketing Tools and Supplies • 10mm Deep Socket • 6” & 3” Extension • Ratchet • Phillips and Flathead Screw Driver • Sharp Pick tool • Needle Nose Pliers • Anti-Static Wrist Strap & Mat, optional but recommended • Hot Air Gun / Heat Gun • 3 – 4 Stripped bread ties or DIP IC removal tool • DIP 28pin Machined Pin Socket (cheap leaf pin socket WILL NOT work - melts) • DIP 28pin Low profile ZIF socket (optional, you will need this _in addition_ to the above) • 30 Watt soldering iron (radio shack) • 22ga (super thin) 60/40 Rosin Core solder (radio shack) • Solder wick (radio shack – optional) Programming Supplies and Software If you do not have access to a pre-programmed chip, you will have to program your own. You are welcomed to contact other board members or myself for a pre-made chip with aftermarket fuel/ignition maps at a reasonable cost. • 27SF512 or compatible EPROM Chip recommended • Suitable Chip Programmer - Moates BURN1 The Moates BURN1 is easy to use for the novice. This device also comes with the easy to use Flash/Burn Software. There are cheaper alternatives (Willem.org) but they are more difficult to use and have buggy software. • Beavedit 2 Software • Aftermarket fuel and ignition map program or modify your own. Interchange If you are not confident, or if this is your first soldering project, I wouldn’t recommend doing this to your main ECU or practicing on an old circuit board. I would recommend obtaining a spare ECU. Note that there are many types and models of ECU’s for theses car, but by chipping it the individual model number no longer matters (the model number is the revision of the chip) If you have a 91-92 Coupe or Sedan you can use: A 91-92 Type I ECU A 93-95 Type I ECU (note that these ECU’s have a nicer auto transmission program and more refined and updated programming) If you have a 93-95 Sedan you can use: A 93-95 Type I ECU A 93-95 Type II ECU (need type I .bin file) If you have a 93-95 Type II coupe, without TCS, you can use: A 93-95 Type I ECU (need type II .bin file) Any 93-95 Type II ECU If you have a 93-95 Type II coupe, WITH TCS, you can use: A 93-95 Type II ECU WITH TCS (A 93-95 Type I or Type II ECU without TCS could be used, but some additional components will have to be soldered onto the board to support TCS. Look out for a DIY for this soon) Removing the ECU A. Remove the three screw-clips holding the trim panel underneath glove box, remove the panel. B. Lift up on the front of the door sill plate. Remove the passenger side kick panel. C. Pull back the carpet as far as possible. D. Remove the four 10mm nuts holding the metal bracket on. E. Lift up on the metal bracket slightly, enough to slide your hand under it and release the electrical connector on the black box (fan control unit) that is attached to the bracket. It may be easier to slide the black box off of the bracket. Be careful as there are sharp edges on the bracket. F. Remove the bracket from the car, pull the bottom of the bracket out first, otherwise the top of it will hit the dash. Be careful handling it because the sharp edges will cut or scratch your leather / fingers. G. Remove the 4 connectors from the right side of the ECU. If you have an auto transmission there will be an additional 5th blue connector on the left. If the connectors are difficult to remove, first push the connector into the ECU firmly, then depress the button and remove the connector. Getting Prepared A clean, spacious workbench is required. Preferably, a table with an anti-static mat spread out. You will need a cup or a dish for the screws removed from the ECU. Also, you should have a soldering iron stand so that you don’t get burned. If your check engine light is on before you start this project, get it fixed first. Breaking down the ECU 1. Remove 5 Screws from top cover. 2. (A/T only) Remove 5 screws from transmission daughterboard. 3. Remove the 5 screws from the side case of the ECU. 4. Remove 5 screws from the bottom cover. 5. Remove 8 screws from the lower ECU board. 6. (A/T only) Tilt the transmission board and remove and set aside the bracket. 7. This is the ROM chip that you will be extracting. Extracting The Chip 8. Strip three bread-ties, skip this step if you have a DIP IC removal tool. 9. VIDEO: Pass the stripped bread tie wire under each side of the ROM chip. Be careful not to scratch the PCB board with the wire. Twist them together so that you have something to pull up on. You will be re-flowing the solder on this section of the board, so the point of doing this is so that you have a place to pull up on the chip without disturbing other sections of the board. 10. The wires should be set up like this: 11. Heat the ROM chip for approximately 1 minute on high heat. Make sure that you keep the heat gun a few inches from the chip. It is critical to keep the heat gun moving and heat both sides of the chip. Keep upward pressure on the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers the whole time. This will indicate exactly when the solder has flowed (the chip will release from the board) therefore, you will not be able to over-heat the board. 12. This is what you want the pads to look like. By far, this is the cleanest most reliable method to extract a chip without destroying it. Installing The Socket 13A. OPTION 1. Have a socket ready (with straight pins) and immediately press the socket in after the chip is removed. If it doesn’t go in, do not force it! Go to OPTION 2. By forcing and bending the board with it heated you risk failed or cold solder joints on the surface mount MCU (the two square chips). 13B. OPTION 2. Allow the board to cool for 5 minutes. Use de-soldering wick or vacuum soldering gun to clear the pads of solder. Insert the socket and solder it in place. 14. Turn the board over after cooling for 5 minutes and apply a small amount of solder to the socket and any other components in the area that appear to have been re-flowed (usually grey, not shiny). 15. Install the ZIF socket (optional) and re-assemble the bottom board inside of the ECU case, install the bottom cover and the 5 screws on the side of the case. Wrap it up & Test Drive 16. If you are using a ZIF socket on an Automatic ECU you will have to shave a part of the transmission board connector off in order to clear the ZIF socket. I used a sharp razor blade to shave a small amount of the connector off at a time. 17. Reinstall the stock chip back into the ZIF socket. 18. Reinstall the transmission board and top cover with 1 screw each, reinstall the ECU into the car and start it up. If there is no check engine light and the car runs properly, you have successfully socketed the ECU --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Programming the Chip 1. Insert the stock ROM chip into the Moates Burn1 Programmer. 2. Open the Moates FlashBurn program and click "Read Chip". 3. Click "Verify Chip w/ Buffer" Make sure it says that it was successful. 4. Click Save "Save Buffer to File". 5. Type in the name of your program, I usually name it with the model number of the ECU and click "Save" In this case "PY3-A55.BIN". 6. Open the BeavEdit 2 Rom Editor Program. Click on the "Open" icon Button. 7. Select the File that you just saved with the FlashBurn program, in this case "PY3-A55.BIN", and click "Open". 8. You are brought back to the main BeavEdit window. Click on the "Settings" icon button. 9. Check the boxes that are circled, which should be by default, and click "Import Data". 10. Open the Aftermarket .BIN file that you would like to import the settings from and click "Open". 11. Close the settings box, and then return to the main window. Click the "Save" icon. 12. Enter a file name, in this case "PY3-A55 MODIFIED.BIN", Click on "Save". 13. Unlplug the USB cable from the programmer. Install a blank 27SF512 chip. Reconnect the USB cable. 14. Open a new instance of the FlashBurn program. Select "27SF512" chip (if this is what you are using). First click on "Erase Chip". Then Click on "Blank Check" Make sure this is successful. Finally, click on load file to buffer. 15. Load the file that you just saved with Beavedit2 in this case, "PY3-A55 MODIFIED.BIN". 16. Click on "Program Chip". 17. Click on "Verify Chip w/ buffer", make sure this is successful. Install the chip in your ECU and your done!!! __________________ The dude with a chip on his shoulder. Stop asking me to compare my chip with Telion's damnit. Mines better. No, really, stop asking The Legend Garage Last edited by sr5guy : 11-23-06 at 01:49 AM.

11-22-06, 08:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
Double Glow Youre wrong... Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 4,855 Car 1: 94 Legend L Sedan Car 2: 94 Honda Civic Dx iTrader: (1)	Amazing DIY!!! +1up!!! Im sure alot more ECUs will be chipped because of this! __________________ "Recognition is the greatest motivator." My Myspace&My Facebook

11-22-06, 09:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
nupe07 $er1f Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Auburn, Alabama Posts: 1,010 iTrader: (6)	Outstanding! Thanks. one, __________________ '92 Legend Blk/Blk LS coupe manual '92 Legend Wht/Blk LS coupe manual '87 Celica Blk/Blk GT hatchback manual '94 Legend Red/Tan LS coupe Auto (parts)

11-22-06, 10:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
misdeismo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Queens, NY Posts: 858 Car 1: '95LS Milano Red 6spd Coupe iTrader: (3)	nice, and i just scored an extra 6 speed ecu. __________________

11-23-06, 01:06 AM	#7 (permalink)
sr5guy Legend Agent Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,637 Car 1: 95 BMW 740I Car 2: 91 L Sedan Rosewood Car 3: 91 LS Cpe 3.5 sold iTrader: (32)	Updated with programming info. If you think I should divide this up into another thread, just let me know. This DIY took me almost 2 weeks, I am so relieved that its done. Thanks for the comments guys! __________________ The dude with a chip on his shoulder. Stop asking me to compare my chip with Telion's damnit. Mines better. No, really, stop asking The Legend Garage

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11-22-06, 11:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
GreekPower Banned Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pittsburgh,PA Posts: 10,458 Car 1: 1992 Acura L"S" Sedan Car 2: 1991 3/S Turbo's 2x Car 3: 2005 Grand Prix iTrader: (13)	wow now thats how u do a DIY, props... time to do this

11-23-06, 01:32 AM	#8 (permalink)
Telion Of the Telion Chip Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hopefully In your ECU ;) Posts: 4,315 Car 1: White 91 KA8 5spd W/3.5, TII Cams & Manifold Car 2: White 91 KA8 JDM TII iTrader: (38)	Wow awesome write up, very thurough! __________________ \/Provider of The Telion Chip click here\/ http://telionsite.com or search Telion Chip 3.5, TII cams,pnp mani & springs,Telion Chip,HID's,H&R's/Koni's,Addco Sway bars,TII calipers,RH C2's,R.J. shifter,DV8 EGR plate,CAI,OBX headers,2.5" exhaust,hi-flow cat,K2 muffler,Stage III clutch,S&D rotors, KVR pads, blackend damper, a CF hood, AFC NEO, 3.5 Aluminum pulley, & Web cams. C&R Racing radiator and more to come.

11-23-06, 02:04 AM	#9 (permalink)
OverDrive Keeper of Keys Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Mill Valley, CA (NorthBay Area) Posts: 600 Car 1: 04 Mercedes C Class AMG Car 2: 99 Acura TL Car 3: 03 E320 Mercedes iTrader: (1)	f in nice dude..... a good step for us to understand our ecu __________________ 1991 Acura Legend 3.5 OD Edition

11-23-06, 05:13 AM	#10 (permalink)
acc-unit legend status Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,661 Car 1: 1995 6spd coupe iTrader: (2)	This might be one of the best write ups i have EVER seen, awesome work man! __________________ 1990 Legend sedan - RIP 1995 6 spd coupe

11-23-06, 09:57 AM	#11 (permalink)
whyteLegend Chicken & Dumplins Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Upstate Posts: 3,062 iTrader: (14)	Nice very nice.... __________________ Click for Deep Discounts http://4450488.shopwize.com FS/Trade: JDM KA7 Headlights & Door Switch, heated seat switch 91-95 Sedan fender,3.5 RL HEADS , INTAKE MANIFOLD & FUEL RAILS , http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...htside-124468/ http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...ad.php?t=95844

11-23-06, 03:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
RLType2 Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Posts: 43 Car 1: 2000 Acura 3.5RL iTrader: (0)	Any idea if this same process and software will work on the 96-04 3.5RL ECU? Steve

11-23-06, 05:08 PM	#14 (permalink)
blkonblkcpe RALPHS HANDS ARE CLEAN! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 10,033 Car 1: 91 LS Black window trim EDM/Hids Remus 2 1/2 cat back Headers stage 3 ecu Car 2: ,Red tails, Type 2 Car 3: 6 speed, EDM spoiler iTrader: (35)	Wow, just wish I understood "NERD". But I speak english! J/K...nice DIY, but I swear this computer shit is for the under 25 ages! __________________ DEMOCRACY IS TWO WOLVES AND A LAMB VOTING ON WHAT TO HAVE FOR LUNCH. LIBERTY IS A WELL ARMED LAMB CONTESTING THE VOTE.

11-23-06, 08:58 PM	#15 (permalink)
SquaL Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Canada Posts: 120 Car 1: 1993 LS coupe 6spd iTrader: (1)	Excellent job... I never would have thought of using hot air gun. Now I will get to work on my spare ECU. Thanks.