Gutting interior, removing excess metal, fuel cell, and things I can remove

**Mike Diaz** · 08-25-04, 10:45 AM

I'm going over a list of things I'll be removing on my coupe. I need a little bit of help to remember how many things I forgot.

So far the list looks like this:
2 Airbags w/steering wheel (will replace with racing wheel)
ABS module under center console
Dash top
Dash bottom
Glove box
Center console with radio trim
Climate control unit
2 front seats (will be replaced with 1 racing seat)
rear seat
2 visors
Headliner with A,B,and C pillar panels
2 door panels
2 rear side panels
rear deck
door sills
floor carpet
sound deadening material on floor (I have a trick for removing it, dry ice)
Trunk carpet with pockets
a/c compressor with lines
a/c condenser
spare tire and jack
both front and rear fender liners
factory airbox and resonator (using my old Akimoto SR intake for now)
windshield washer resevior
windshield wipers and motor
cruise control servo
Exhaust heat shields (will be running glass pack right after the Y pipe)
fuel tank (installing a 4.5 gallon fuel cell in spare tire well)

Ok, here's where I need help. I bought a pack of 20 cut-off wheels for my grinder, I plan on removing the rear deck and installing a strut brace, I'm wondering what kind of strut brack will fit best. Another prelude front brace?

As far as the fuel cell goes, how deep will it need to be to fit the fuel sending unit into it? I've never had to remove mine, so I don't know the size. Are there any fuel cells that are better than the other?

Here's where it gets complicated, I plan on running with Lexan windows and no window regulators, because I plan on removing a good amount of metal from the inner part of the door panel. Does anybody know of a way to turn this thing into a manual crank window? Just on the driver side. Any ideas would be great.

You guys don't realize how much extra metal is not needed for this car to perform. I went all through the car on Sunday and I'll bet on the fact that I can lose over 200 pounds with that cut off wheel. The only thing I'm concerned about is installing the roll cage and how heavy that will be (est. 200 pounds)

Last but not least, any ideas on making an inner door handle work without a door panel? I don't want to separate the inner door handle when selling the door panel.

The goal is to get the car to a safe 2500 pounds.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

hondalegendjdm · 08-25-04, 11:00 AM

whats curb weight on the coupe?

**Mike Diaz** · 08-25-04, 11:30 AM

3660 pounds.

Dethred · 08-25-04, 11:52 AM

Is this going to be a strip/track car? Streetable? If not streetable then:

-no catalytic convertor
-front and rear windows replace with lexan
-make a sliding panel on the driver's window or just use netting.
-carbon fiber hood.
-rear seatbelts/tensioners
-replace sunroof with solid lexan and maybe even cut more of the roof out and replace with bars
- Lighter wheels
- entire carpet
etc.

Seeb_95Legend · 08-25-04, 12:02 PM

hey mike it think you can get it under 3000, but 2500 sounds very hard bro, i know you know what your doing so have fun. i know that the driver seat is like at least 100lbs or more, i remember moving mines and they are heavy as all hell, it took me and my brother to carry it safely, passenger seat is also heavy but not that much cause i have an L model. Aftermarket seats are like 30 lbs, so thats the mod im doing, then ill think about other stuff. have fun bro, i really wana see the result of this mod, if u can get the weigth down without making the interrior look like dog poop, mad props bro, im gonna be following ur foot steps soon,

alexc · 08-25-04, 01:55 PM

I can't think of anything, other than plastic covers in the engine bay, the power steering pump, and starving yourself.

As far as getting the door open, you would have to anchor the cable to the door, in the same way it is normally anchored to the back of the door handle, and then tug on it (pretty hard too) to open the door. I think you could rig a handle to it pretty easily. I could send you my broken door handle if you could use it, the piece that anchors the door cable has broken off (common problem).

Dethred · 08-25-04, 02:09 PM

You can just rig up someway of getting the cable really tight and just needing a tug of something like a leather strap or something.

tnelson · 08-25-04, 02:26 PM

just crawl in the window

Dethred · 08-25-04, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnelson

just crawl in the window

Pretend its the General Lee in Dukes of Hazard.

tnelson · 08-25-04, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dethred

Pretend its the General Lee in Dukes of Hazard.

my thoughts exactly.

thephatone · 08-25-04, 04:50 PM

power steering, ac condensor and stuff related to the ac, you can take out the heater, take out all the smog check stuff, carbon fiber bumper,hood,fenders...(the toyota soarer in D1GP has this done)

**Mike Diaz** · 08-26-04, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thephatone

power steering, ac condensor and stuff related to the ac, you can take out the heater, take out all the smog check stuff, carbon fiber bumper,hood,fenders...(the toyota soarer in D1GP has this done)

I was actually thinking of making a one piece fiberglass front end that folds forward and tube framing the front end of the car.

I forgot about mentioning the heater core, and all the piping behind the dash.

Seeb, the interior will probably look like crap, but I'll tint the lexan. The exterior will look pretty much identical to what it is now. Unless, of course, I do that fiberglass front end.

Dethred, it's going to be an Auto-x car to start with, but once I start really getting into the performance side of it, it probably will turn into a drag car. I'll definitely be running the car with a bone stock engine when the weight reduction is done.

Tyler, maybe I could paint it orange and put the 01 on the side. Speaking of that, can anyone photoshop that onto this pic?

If somebody has the time, can you black and white checkerboard the car in photoshop?

ScotcH · 08-26-04, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Diaz

3660 pounds.

Nope ... 3450. I had mine corner weighted last year.

ScotcH · 08-26-04, 01:46 AM

Aftermarket seats can be about 12lbs. I agree the most savings is going to be in the interior and sound deadening, but I think you're being highly optimistic to get it down to 2500. Even a fully race prepped M3 is hard to bring down to 2300, and this is with hood, trunk, fenders, doors, all in CF. An M3 starts at 3050lbs. Loosing 1000lbs form a car is almost impossible unless you tube frame it.

All that siad, even if you lose 500lbs, you will have a car with basically the same performance as a stock M3 ... do some suspension work, and you're good to go!

Ps... the proper sequence is:

Drag --> AutoX --> Solo I --> Wheel to Wheel!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seeb_95Legend

hey mike it think you can get it under 3000, but 2500 sounds very hard bro, i know you know what your doing so have fun. i know that the driver seat is like at least 100lbs or more, i remember moving mines and they are heavy as all hell, it took me and my brother to carry it safely, passenger seat is also heavy but not that much cause i have an L model. Aftermarket seats are like 30 lbs, so thats the mod im doing, then ill think about other stuff. have fun bro, i really wana see the result of this mod, if u can get the weigth down without making the interrior look like dog poop, mad props bro, im gonna be following ur foot steps soon,

**Mike Diaz** · 08-26-04, 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScotcH

Aftermarket seats can be about 12lbs. I agree the most savings is going to be in the interior and sound deadening, but I think you're being highly optimistic to get it down to 2500. Even a fully race prepped M3 is hard to bring down to 2300, and this is with hood, trunk, fenders, doors, all in CF. An M3 starts at 3050lbs. Loosing 1000lbs form a car is almost impossible unless you tube frame it.

All that siad, even if you lose 500lbs, you will have a car with basically the same performance as a stock M3 ... do some suspension work, and you're good to go!

Ps... the proper sequence is:

Drag --> AutoX --> Solo I --> Wheel to Wheel!

Thanks for the ideas Scotch, Once I remove as much as I can, I'll have it weighed, I have no real clue how much it'll weigh until I'm done. If it's not enough, I have the means to tube frame at least the front end, if not the front and rear.

Why drag first? I'd love to get into wheel to wheel at Mid-Ohio next year. I don't think I could hang with the other V6's until I get serious into the engine modification.

08-25-04, 10:45 AM	#1 (permalink)
Mike Diaz WHAAAAAH! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: N Canton, Ohio Posts: 10,987 Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk Car 2: 1994 Civic EG Hatch Car 3: 03 Honda TRX400EX iTrader: (2)	Gutting interior, removing excess metal, fuel cell, and things I can remove I'm going over a list of things I'll be removing on my coupe. I need a little bit of help to remember how many things I forgot. So far the list looks like this: 2 Airbags w/steering wheel (will replace with racing wheel) ABS module under center console Dash top Dash bottom Glove box Center console with radio trim Climate control unit 2 front seats (will be replaced with 1 racing seat) rear seat 2 visors Headliner with A,B,and C pillar panels 2 door panels 2 rear side panels rear deck door sills floor carpet sound deadening material on floor (I have a trick for removing it, dry ice) Trunk carpet with pockets a/c compressor with lines a/c condenser spare tire and jack both front and rear fender liners factory airbox and resonator (using my old Akimoto SR intake for now) windshield washer resevior windshield wipers and motor cruise control servo Exhaust heat shields (will be running glass pack right after the Y pipe) fuel tank (installing a 4.5 gallon fuel cell in spare tire well) Ok, here's where I need help. I bought a pack of 20 cut-off wheels for my grinder, I plan on removing the rear deck and installing a strut brace, I'm wondering what kind of strut brack will fit best. Another prelude front brace? As far as the fuel cell goes, how deep will it need to be to fit the fuel sending unit into it? I've never had to remove mine, so I don't know the size. Are there any fuel cells that are better than the other? Here's where it gets complicated, I plan on running with Lexan windows and no window regulators, because I plan on removing a good amount of metal from the inner part of the door panel. Does anybody know of a way to turn this thing into a manual crank window? Just on the driver side. Any ideas would be great. You guys don't realize how much extra metal is not needed for this car to perform. I went all through the car on Sunday and I'll bet on the fact that I can lose over 200 pounds with that cut off wheel. The only thing I'm concerned about is installing the roll cage and how heavy that will be (est. 200 pounds) Last but not least, any ideas on making an inner door handle work without a door panel? I don't want to separate the inner door handle when selling the door panel. The goal is to get the car to a safe 2500 pounds. Any suggestions are appreciated. __________________ 2nd Gen FAQ \| Newbie FAQ \| Bleeding Coolant DIY \| Manual Trans Flush DIY 3.5L DIY \| Crank-No Start Diagnosis \| How I built My Legend

08-25-04, 11:30 AM	#3 (permalink)
Mike Diaz WHAAAAAH! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: N Canton, Ohio Posts: 10,987 Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk Car 2: 1994 Civic EG Hatch Car 3: 03 Honda TRX400EX iTrader: (2)	3660 pounds. __________________ 2nd Gen FAQ \| Newbie FAQ \| Bleeding Coolant DIY \| Manual Trans Flush DIY 3.5L DIY \| Crank-No Start Diagnosis \| How I built My Legend

08-25-04, 12:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
Seeb_95Legend Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 976 Car 1: SOLD - 1995 4dr Legend Sedan Car 2: MK4 Supra single T iTrader: (0)	hey mike it think you can get it under 3000, but 2500 sounds very hard bro, i know you know what your doing so have fun. i know that the driver seat is like at least 100lbs or more, i remember moving mines and they are heavy as all hell, it took me and my brother to carry it safely, passenger seat is also heavy but not that much cause i have an L model. Aftermarket seats are like 30 lbs, so thats the mod im doing, then ill think about other stuff. have fun bro, i really wana see the result of this mod, if u can get the weigth down without making the interrior look like dog poop, mad props bro, im gonna be following ur foot steps soon, __________________ http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...a/f3eda75b.jpg Ram Intake Remus exhaust Bayou Stage2 TB Coolant bypass Blue Ground kit DV8 y-pipes & high flow cat.

08-25-04, 01:55 PM	#6 (permalink)
alexc Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 1,074 Car 1: 94 LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	I can't think of anything, other than plastic covers in the engine bay, the power steering pump, and starving yourself. As far as getting the door open, you would have to anchor the cable to the door, in the same way it is normally anchored to the back of the door handle, and then tug on it (pretty hard too) to open the door. I think you could rig a handle to it pretty easily. I could send you my broken door handle if you could use it, the piece that anchors the door cable has broken off (common problem). __________________ Looking to Buy: Legend-Specific Remus http://home.wideopenwest.com/~lcorte...signature5.jpg » Latest pictures of my Coupe -- Leon's G2 FAQ -- G2 Stereo FAQ -- Forum Rules «

08-25-04, 02:26 PM	#8 (permalink)
tnelson Pedobear is watching you Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 7,653 Car 1: 2002 TL-S, white Car 2: 1992 Corvette iTrader: (3)	just crawl in the window __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feLqz1udhtY

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08-25-04, 11:00 AM	#2 (permalink)
hondalegendjdm Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: grand forks nd Posts: 35 Car 1: 93 acura legend 4 door L iTrader: (0)	whats curb weight on the coupe?

08-25-04, 11:52 AM	#4 (permalink)
Dethred Hi! I'm Ryan. Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Yorktown, VA Posts: 4,296 Car 1: 2008 Honda Civic Si Coupe Car 2: 92' Acura Legend 4DR iTrader: (2)	Is this going to be a strip/track car? Streetable? If not streetable then: -no catalytic convertor -front and rear windows replace with lexan -make a sliding panel on the driver's window or just use netting. -carbon fiber hood. -rear seatbelts/tensioners -replace sunroof with solid lexan and maybe even cut more of the roof out and replace with bars - Lighter wheels - entire carpet etc.

08-25-04, 02:09 PM	#7 (permalink)
Dethred Hi! I'm Ryan. Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Yorktown, VA Posts: 4,296 Car 1: 2008 Honda Civic Si Coupe Car 2: 92' Acura Legend 4DR iTrader: (2)	You can just rig up someway of getting the cable really tight and just needing a tug of something like a leather strap or something.

08-25-04, 04:50 PM	#11 (permalink)
thephatone Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 101 Car 1: 93' Acura Legend Type 2 6 speed iTrader: (0)	power steering, ac condensor and stuff related to the ac, you can take out the heater, take out all the smog check stuff, carbon fiber bumper,hood,fenders...(the toyota soarer in D1GP has this done)