My 3.5 Semi-Hybrid Swap... Progress and Information NO 56K - Page 8

*Dv8* · 03-01-07, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

Damn this is not what I was hoping for. Does anyone have a RL and 3.2 Manifold to compare? I was hoping the obx headers would be plug-n-play.

-Matt

The y pipe difference was so minimal I hand pulled the y and it fit.

~Dv8

Kenso · 03-01-07, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

Damn this is not what I was hoping for. Does anyone have a RL and 3.2 Manifold to compare? I was hoping the obx headers would be plug-n-play.

-Matt

I have them all, just have to dig them out. I eyeballed them back in the day and never noticed any difference, but can only assume there must be. I can't think of any other reason why the Legend y-pipe would be able to fit. I know when I test fit my stock type 1 y-pipe on my mockup 3.5, it fit ok and I had the RL manifolds on it at the time. Still don't know why Diaz had problems, unless he had his heads milled down or something. IIRC he used the RL exhaust manifolds too.

Kenso · 03-01-07, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dv8

Thats so awesome you have access to all that stuff. Perfect pic. If my centerline was off I would think that I would have some sort of issue running-even something small-rough idle etc.
Matt, Ive beat the living shit out of this engine for the whole 06' year. roughly 40-60 1/4 mile passes at the track alone and thats was primarily back to back runs. 20-30 dyno blasts, not to mention regular joy rides. No engine issues. This is deff the most solid engine ive put together since when it was stock.

Side note. Incase this is news, I was looking at a type 2 rocker assym and the rockers had py3 printed on them. looks like thyer not any different than the type 1's.

Ken, maybe i should get out of I.T. and get certified as an Acura mechanic-sounds like fun..no?

~Dv8

The sad thing is that I've thrown away tons of useful stuff because I was running out of space.

I say we just trade jobs, I'm tired of mine. Then again, I have no idea how to do yours so I'm screwed.

mweber88 · 03-01-07, 10:11 PM

From my rough guess-timates, it's under .020" to change the cam timing 1 degree. So, if the geometry's off between the left cam and crank AND the left cam to water pump and water pump to right cam (can you see where this is going? it's adding up fast...) there could be cam timing issues. Cam timing does make a difference; there's no two ways about that. That's why they make degree wheels and adjustable cam sprockets so that we may degree in our cams correctly and precisely.

That's mentally estimating the tooth-tooth centerline distance on the belt as 5/16" (5/32" tooth width). If I had an actual timing belt measurement/profile, I could accurately do the math.

For what it's worth...

Mike

sr5guy · 03-01-07, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweber88

From my rough guess-timates, it's under .020" to change the cam timing 1 degree. So, if the geometry's off between the left cam and crank AND the left cam to water pump and water pump to right cam (can you see where this is going? it's adding up fast...) there could be cam timing issues. Cam timing does make a difference; there's no two ways about that. That's why they make degree wheels and adjustable cam sprockets so that we may degree in our cams correctly and precisely.

That's mentally estimating the tooth-tooth centerline distance on the belt as 5/16" (5/32" tooth width). If I had an actual timing belt measurement/profile, I could accurately do the math.

For what it's worth...

Mike

+1 :-)

Per BUZZARD, even on a stock motor the cams are retarded. The powerband can be shifted around a bit with cam gears - I'm not sure additional power can be made though. Either way $350 is a lot of money to spend on adjustable cam gears, but worth it for the right person. Too bad the driver's side cam gear has the sensor pickups for the crank/cam sensor.

-Matt

whats77inaname · 03-02-07, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

Is the 1mm larger valve worth all the work required to do this?
What is the RPM limit for the RL's drivetrain?
Mike Diaz, What RPM limit are you running on a daily basis with the RL heads?

My theory is that its not worth the extra work and expense, therefore I am going to eventually retrofit the RL heads with the type II cams and valve springs.

-Matt

I concur. There's no way in hell I'd spend that kind of time and money unless I was getting the heads THOROUGHLY worked. Considering that Portflow charges $1500 to work NSX heads, you have a general idea of what it'll cost us to have ours done. At that point, I'd have to pass, as I can't see spending almost 1/2 the price of what I paid for my car just to get the heads worked. I mean I enjoy it and want to see it perform well, but at some point, a line has to be drawn.

I have Type II heads sitting in the garage, and plan to swap the cams and springs. I'm seriously considering the NSX springs, but I have to do a bit more research. With your info on the manifolds, I'm probably going to be using my Type II mani. I'm glad you're chipping ECUs, as I'll be hitting you up when I complete my swap

Your thread has a lot of useful information, as well as opening up a lot of things for discussion. Speaking of that, did anyone find out if the NSX fuel rails flow better than the Legend rails, and if they're swappable?

Keep up the good work.

BUZZARD · 03-02-07, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

+1 :-)

Per BUZZARD, even on a stock motor the cams are retarded. The powerband can be shifted around a bit with cam gears - I'm not sure additional power can be made though. Either way $350 is a lot of money to spend on adjustable cam gears, but worth it for the right person. Too bad the driver's side cam gear has the sensor pickups for the crank/cam sensor.

-Matt

Our gears are made to move the cam but not the trigger teeth. Does the ecu have a timing adjust resistor ??

Chris

sr5guy · 03-02-07, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BUZZARD

Our gears are made to move the cam but not the trigger teeth. Does the ecu have a timing adjust resistor ??

Chris

Yes, but it is only + or - 2 degrees. Could the cam sensor be slotted and adjusted? Please elaborate

.

-Matt

*Dv8* · 03-02-07, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

Per BUZZARD, even on a stock motor the cams are retarded.

-Matt

I'll never stop thinking how funny that sounds everytime i see it.

~Dv8

sr5guy · 03-02-07, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whats77inaname

I concur. There's no way in hell I'd spend that kind of time and money unless I was getting the heads THOROUGHLY worked. Considering that Portflow charges $1500 to work NSX heads, you have a general idea of what it'll cost us to have ours done. At that point, I'd have to pass, as I can't see spending almost 1/2 the price of what I paid for my car just to get the heads worked. I mean I enjoy it and want to see it perform well, but at some point, a line has to be drawn.

I have Type II heads sitting in the garage, and plan to swap the cams and springs. I'm seriously considering the NSX springs, but I have to do a bit more research. With your info on the manifolds, I'm probably going to be using my Type II mani. I'm glad you're chipping ECUs, as I'll be hitting you up when I complete my swap

Your thread has a lot of useful information, as well as opening up a lot of things for discussion. Speaking of that, did anyone find out if the NSX fuel rails flow better than the Legend rails, and if they're swappable?

Keep up the good work.

I'm glad this information is useful, and you're right it does open up a lot for discussion. One of my mainreasons for doing this is so that I have something to tune and experiment with the ECU. I have a good feeling quite a bit of power can be eeked out of the 3.5 with a custom tuned chip.

You lost me on the first paragraph. What kind of work does portflow do? Install larger valves? Or just P&P? I was discussing installing the Type II intake valve into the RL head with Christian a few months back. While it's definetly a possibility, why install just a 1mm larger intake valve? Why not find and install even larger valves? It probably wouldn't cost more money and you would be opening up even more power.

-Matt

sr5guy · 03-02-07, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dv8

I'll never stop thinking how funny that sounds everytime i see it.

~Dv8

You must have missed in the blown motor thread where I called you a fucktard

-Matt

*Dv8* · 03-02-07, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sr5guy

You must have missed in the blown motor thread where I called you a fucktard

-Matt

You blew your motor on the dyno playing fiddle with the ECU and I'm the Fucktard.........

~Dv8

sr5guy · 03-02-07, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dv8

You blew your motor on the dyno playing fiddle with the ECU and I'm the Fucktard.........

~Dv8

EDIT: You better knock on wood Mr. DIY tune EMS

-Matt

Alperovich · 03-02-07, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dv8

You blew your motor on the dyno playing fiddle with the ECU and I'm the Fucktard.........

~Dv8

hmm, lol i think he blow his motor while trying to get a STOCK baseline

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03-01-07, 10:11 PM	#109 (permalink)
mweber88 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 440 Car 1: 1994 Acura Legend GS Black/Black 6-speed iTrader: (7)	From my rough guess-timates, it's under .020" to change the cam timing 1 degree. So, if the geometry's off between the left cam and crank AND the left cam to water pump and water pump to right cam (can you see where this is going? it's adding up fast...) there could be cam timing issues. Cam timing does make a difference; there's no two ways about that. That's why they make degree wheels and adjustable cam sprockets so that we may degree in our cams correctly and precisely. That's mentally estimating the tooth-tooth centerline distance on the belt as 5/16" (5/32" tooth width). If I had an actual timing belt measurement/profile, I could accurately do the math. For what it's worth... Mike