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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Brake Pad Replacement by Shadow
Thanks Shadow.
![]() Replacing the brake pads is quite a simple task. After jacking the vehicle up, remove the wheel There are two bolts holding the caliper to the wheel arm thingy. once these are off the caliper should move freely away from the rotor. The pads slide in and out quite easily. Remove old pads and check for uneven wear, and any scraping on the rotor If the rotor is damaged get skimmed or replace! Make sure you keep the metal backing plates for the pads! and remember which side they go on. The caliper piston on the front can be pushed back in with a simple caliper depressor, but the rear ones require to be turned as they go in. you can borrow/hire the tools from most mechanics, or some auto shops.(before you depress the piston remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir as you will get back- flow) When puting in the new pads, you should feel a light click as it falls into place Whilst you have the calipers off you might want to give the sliding rods a quick bit of grease - the rods that the calipers 'float' along If one of these has been sticking it can be the cause of uneven wear. Replace the calipers in reverse of the way we took them off and your new pads are a go-go. Replace the reservoir cap and top up if neccessary. Just too wear them in, I like to gently pump the brake a few times while keeping one foot gently on the accelerator. Then get up to speed ~60mph then jump on the anchors for a moment - this also helps to remove any lips on the edge of the rotor! Hope this helps y'all!!! )
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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My car is the '95 L.
I have just replaced my rear brake pads and I must say that it's pretty much a snap. My car is clean, no rust. Reading the DIY I note that for the rear pads the poster states that the caliper piston must be turned to retract it. This is not what I have to do on my car. In fact, an ordinary C clamp is good for pushing the piston back in. Do this slowly and if your brake fluid reservoir is not over filled, the returning fluid should not run over. If there is any doubt, just remove some fluid or better yet, open the bleeder on the caliper, which is what I normally do. If the DIY'er has access to air tools the job can be done in 30 min. max, per wheel with ample time for several beers. Of course beer and brakes don't match up too well, so... RAP
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Acurite |
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#3 (permalink) |
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A work in progress...
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 246
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abs light stuck on!
Ok, so I replaced my rear pads and rotors... it was about that time, they weren't shot, but well on their way. The new pads I got wouldn't take the metal backing plates, so I pitched them (DOH!)... now my abs light comes on after I drive about 10 feet or so.... Is this because of that backing plate, or is something else wrong? I checked fronts, and they're fine... PLEASE HELP! By the way, I love this site/forum, you guys have inspired me to do so much, and with so many people and so much information, I feel I can tackle these mods with full confidence.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Here is how I do it
1) Jack car and remove wheels 2) Remove bottom (?) bolt on the caliper and swing the caliper up (I might have this backwards, it has been a while) 3) Remove old pads and save back plates 4) Remove brake fluid resivoir cap and push caliper pistion in with a big C clamp 5) Put pack plates on new pads and appliy brake-b-quiet solution of your choice 6) Slide pads in caliper and swing back onto disk 7) Replace bolt in caliper Done! I use the blue stuff at Advanc Auto to keep my brakes quiet and clean it all with brake cleaner often during install. I hope this helps. Later! Lee |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Bernardino HoLdinG it Down RepReseNtinG da 951 & 909 DonT Be HatIng F*$# all yah OnLIne TraSh TaLkers IMPORT FAN rice it OUt or white it ouT
Posts: 624
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I just bought some brembo cross drilled / slotted rotors for my acura legend 94. I'm going to get some pads but i'm unsure which brand to get. Well anyways if you guys could help me out on how to change everything all around it would be wonderful. Hopefully a nice walk through with pictures? I know that they are charging about $100 for labor. i'm not so sure i want to spend that. But i dunno . Please help me out. Thanks again!
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Later! Lee |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Bernardino HoLdinG it Down RepReseNtinG da 951 & 909 DonT Be HatIng F*$# all yah OnLIne TraSh TaLkers IMPORT FAN rice it OUt or white it ouT
Posts: 624
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Anyone have a walk thru on how to paint your calipers for the FRONT and REAR?
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 361
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Quote:
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AIM: craigerd2 |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Me too
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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BRAKES and ABS
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You could remove the rear seat back and unplug the electronic controller for the ABS and try that to see if anything else is affected. You could beg, borrow, steal, purchase a Helms repair manual to study this car which would help you a great deal. The manual DOES NOT offer any help in cancelling the ABS lite however. In fact there is not much repair advice on tha ABS system except remove and replace, and, IT IS VERY EXPENSIVE. You could possibly find a replacement at a wrecking yard? My ABS lite comes on after startup and I just ignore it. The brakes will continue to work fine. Do a search. ![]()
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Acurite |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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thanks
Thanks for your help. I really dont want to tear the whole dash apart. I am also haveing a problem disableing the alarm. I thought i had it but then it started going off agian. I am going to try to tinker with it agian today. I just have some questions about it. Is it the little lever on the back side of the hood latch? There is a cable running to that and I was just woundering if that was it. Or better yet if someone has a pic of the cable i am going to disconnect that would be awsome.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Legend Lover
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 623
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machined rotors and pads. I also bled the brakes a couple of times till the pedal was nice and frim under my foot as well as flushing my brake fluid. Easy as pie!!!
Here is my baby in the air. And yes the rotors are black because i wanted to paint the centers and outer cricumfrance of them. the overspray got on the rotors but came right off after a few hard brakes. I used hi-temp ceramic spraypaint for the rotors. Thanks for a good DIY! ![]() Rear ![]() Front ![]()
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94' Desert Mist Legend LS coupe 86,000mi and counting....... "Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while........you could miss it!" Ferris Buller Last edited by stella91legend : 09-09-06 at 12:42 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Whitby, Canada
Posts: 376
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i think my rear caliper is scraping should i just replace the pad or the entire caliper and can i just replace one brake pad on the car? also the only specialty tool i need is a caliper depressor?
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Yeah that's easiest way. I do it like that now too. You have to remove the bottom bolt that the caliper slides on NOT the mounting bolt and just tilt it up. I used to remove both mounting bolts until I read the factory service manual. It says to just remove the bolt for the bottom floating pin and tilt up. If you remove the top one there's not enough flexible brake line to tilt the caliper down. Takes me 10 mins to change brake pads now.
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Nick 93 coupe type II 6 spd black on black stock 148K, now sold & sadly missed, but consoling myself with a 2003 CL-S 88 coupe 5 spd gold/tan bone stock (RIP-rear ended) |
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