aww-shiet

I would ask the moderators to move this into the D.I.Y. section.

I got this info from the CB7tuner (90-93 Accord) Fourm.

WHAT: As im sure many of you have noticed, your motor mounts are composed mainly of air. Why? To control vibrations and a lot for a comfortable ride for the passengers. But, with this comfort, you must sacrifice power through the form of drive train loss. When your motor is making torque, it moves around. This movement results in drive train loss, which in turn, results in loss of power. By filling in this space, you can decrease drive train loss.

WHY:Now you can just buy motor mount inserts to solidify your motor mounts, but that’s just not as much fun. Not to mention this works better, and will save you some cash too. Maybe you want less power loss to the wheels? Maybe you like you car vibrating? Maybe your just borde. Unlike inserts, this stuff bonds on a chemical level to the rubber.

Ummm… who, where, and when don’t really apply to this. HOW on the other hand is what im going to describe in the following pages.

TOOLS REQUIRED:
-McMaster Carr Liquid Urethane
-Wrenches and ratchets
-Something to support your motor
-Duct Tape

Lets start off with the Urethane. You can get it through http://www.mcmaster.com along with all kinds of industrial supplies. Check out the site, they have some cool stuff available. There are a couple different strengths, the higher the number, the higher the tensile strength. Ignore the lowest one, its not worth it. The ones were interested in are 80A and 90A. I ended up getting the 80A because my car isn’t a full race car, and I don’t feel like being vibrated to death. I ended up getting mine for $25.00 shipped, and I got it 2 days after I ordered it. Now that’s service!

(do not, for the love of god, use Window Weld. People claims it works just as well, their full of crap. It sucks, stay away from it, and shell out the extra $20 and do it right the first time)

Now its going to come with a can, a small bottle, some instructions, and a mixing stick. Don’t worry, the containers are supposed to be half full, you dint get ripped off.

As for the tools, check your service manual to see what you need exactly. What? You don’t have one? Well, stop reading this, hit up http://www.ebay.com and pick up a Factory Service Manual for your car, trust me, youll be glad you did.

Now, to get the motor mounts out of the car, their a couple ways to do this. My recommendation would be to do this when the motor is out of the car, that way you don’t have to deal with trying to support the motor for 2 days while the Urethane cures, that and you don’t have to deal with proportioning the urethane out to do them one at a time. I did mine when I was swapping my H22 in. If you don’t have the motor out, there are a coupe other ways you can do this.

1.) Get a floor jack. No, don’t get a hydraulic jack, the weight of the motor will cause it to sag eventually. Jack it up so the weight of the motor is supported by the jack. Make sure you put the jack on a safe point that wont be crushed (ie: oil pan) around the general vicinity of the mount your pulling.
2.) Get and engine hoist of some kind, chain the motor up, put some tension on the chain, and pull the mounts. You can pull the all if you wanted to, but be careful your motor dosent move around, you don’t want to snap axels or your driveshaft.

Now, the mounts you want are the rear motor mount and front torque strap. In an FWD, Inline 4 , these are the mounts that are going to control the torque. You can do the transmission mount and the drivers side motor mount too if you want, but it isn’t going to make a huge difference if you do or do not. I did it anyways, just to be through

Next, once you get your mounts out (or just mount), you’ll want to prep them. You can do this simply by getting a drill with a wire bristle bit, and taking it to the rubber. Don’t go overboard though, just rough them up, so the urethane will have places to infiltrate the rubber. I dint take pictures of this (I should have though.) Use your judgment on this. The comapy that made the urethane I used (Forsch Polymer Corp., out of Denver) also makes a Rubber Primer for this stuff, but I wasn’t able to locate it on the McMaster Carr website. You could probably call them directly though and get some. I dint do this because of time constraints. If you get this stuff, follow the directions and use it after the next step.

After that, youll want to clean the mounts. This part is very important and I cannot stress that enough. This step is vital to how well the Urethane bonds to the rubber. I filled the sink with water, dumped some Simple Green in, and let them soak for awhile (hour or so.) I then took a old toothbrush and scrubbed the hell out of them. I rinsed them thoroughly with clean water, soaked them again in Simple Green, toothbrushed them and rinsed again. After this, I stuck them over a vent in the house, and let them set for 2 days. Overkill? Maybe. But, water is the enemy of urethane. If there is any left on the rubber, it will not bond.

Once the mounts are dry, youre ready to pour the urethane. Your going to need to mask off one side of the mount so that you can pour the urethane into the mount. Get the duct tape, and tape off one side of the mount. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE BEST SEAL POSSIBLE, this is vital. This stuff is about the consistency (and color) of maple syrup and will find a way out if there is one. You don’t have to tape off the metal cylinder either, just get a good seal on the one side of the mount. No, I dint take any pictures, I should have though, but once we poured the urethane in, we sprung a leak. Once you get it all taped off find some stuff around the house to get the mount level so you can pour the urethane. This is pretty obvious, so you will live with out pictures I wouldn’t recommend using anything that cant be thrown away, just incase the urethane escapes.

Now, follow the instructions and mix the urethane. Follow them exactly, that’s vital. You can split the stuff into “batches” but its not recommended. Once its mixed, you have about 15 minutes of working time before it sets up. Pour the urethane into the mounts, and hope your tape job was good enough. Don’t pour urethane into the metal cylinder unless you want to drill that out later. Once you get the mounts full, that’s it! Youll most likely have some left over. We filled up a plastic ball stolen out of the Kid Land playground thing at McDonalds with it.

You are done! Now the waiting begins. It takes 24 hours to set up, and about a week to cure completely to maximum tensile strength. Once you’ve given it about 24 hours, it will still look wet. Looks are deceiving though, because it will be solid! Pull the duct tape off them ,and your ready to rock.

To reinstall the mounts, bust out your service manual, and do what it tells you to do. Then take it for a test drive! Enjoy the exciting world of vibrations at idle (its not that bad)! Feel the lack of wheel hop on launch! All of a sudden, your car is going to feel 10 times better, trust me.

and the finish pic of one of the mounts:




i will post more pics of the finished product. i will also do this to my legend when im going to be installing my motor.

so far the replys from CB7Tuner, the guys love it! so i hope you guys do to!

__________________

 

sr5guy

Re-Post!!!

-Matt

__________________
The dude with a chip on his shoulder.

Stop asking me to compare my chip with Telion's damnit. Mines better.

aww-shiet

how is it a repost. i never saw anyone do this.

__________________

sr5guy

A. Its a repost from another forum
B. Its been linked to before on this forum - to that forum... Use the search.

Its definetly good information in there, but the same thing could have been accomplished with a link.

-Matt

__________________
The dude with a chip on his shoulder.

Stop asking me to compare my chip with Telion's damnit. Mines better.

Alperovich

yea, i've seen this before, it would be nice for someone to post a LEgend specific DIY

__________________
~Alex

\

swift

mmmmm.....

I am going to get some type1 mounts and post pics for ideas. Will BrB.

sr5guy

Just convert to a 93-95 setup... Its soooo much more easier to do and there is no chance for the mounts to rip off!

-Matt

__________________
The dude with a chip on his shoulder.

Stop asking me to compare my chip with Telion's damnit. Mines better.

theGodfather

I've ripped my Type-II mounts before

__________________

1995 Legend Coupe 6-speed
Carbon Black Metallic
208 WHP @ 6250 RPM
189 FT/LB @ 5250 RPM
MUSTANG Dyno
260,000mi and counting

WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE

大LO

I went with 60A for my rear tranny mount a few years back and it held up well except for the vibration that it causes. If you don't mind the shaking b/w 1200-1500 rpm then it's definitely worth the T&M.

telafonic

So 60A is even softer than the 80A and 90A, and it still had lots of vibrations?

__________________



Various G1 and G2 parts For Sale

Joe E - Florida

Two-Part Casting Compounds
Capture intricate details when casting prototypes, molds, and linings with these easy-to-mix casting compounds. For release agents, see page 2083.
Temperature Working Cure Time Tensile
Range Time, @ Room Temp. Shrinkage Hardness, Strength, Volume Wt.,
After Cure min. (unless noted) Color per inch Shore psi cu. in. lbs. Each
Low-Viscosity Urethane— Flows smoothly into crevices to pick up fine details.
-20° to +135° F 8-10 7 Days(Demold 2 hrs.) White 0.001" 83D 5800 94 3.6
87075K57 $55.38
374 14.4
87075K59 $148.83
Solid Urethane— Cures quickly. Use for precision measuring, tracing, and making replicas for optical comparisons.
32° to 180° F 5 1-2 Hours Blue- Green 0.0007" 85D-90D 9000 80 5
8690K1 $58.07
320 20
8690K2 $151.30
Flexible Urethane— Offers high tensile strength, plus it's highly flexible, pliable, and water and abrasion resistant.
-40° to +180° F 10-20 48 Hours Black 0.0005" 60A 1250 25 1
8644K24 $32.33
60A 1250 250 10
8644K26 $209.00
80A 1725 25 1
8644K11 $28.83
80A 1725 250 10
8644K12 $190.83
94A 3120 25 1
8644K18 $32.33
94A 3120 250 10
8644K19 $198.10
Flexible Urethane Putty— Same qualities as the flexible urethane above, except in putty form.
-40° to +180° F 10-20 48 Hours Black 0.0005" 60A 1250 25 1
8644K28 $28.09
60A 1250 100 4
8644K29 $82.18
85A 3850 25 1
8644K13 $29.33
85A 3850 100 4
8644K15 $82.18
FDA Flexible Urethane— Complies to FDA 21 CFR Sec. 175.105 and 177.168. Offers the same qualities as the flexible urethane above.
-40° to +180° F 10-15 12 Hours @ 120° F White 0.08" 60A 1400 25 1
8644K34 $26.43
60A 1400 250 10
8644K33 $176.11
78A 4580 25 1
8644K37 $26.43
78A 4580 250 10
8644K39 $176.11
88A 4555 25 1
8644K41 $26.43
88A 4555 250 10
8644K43 $176.11
75D 4450 25 1
8644K47 $26.43
75D 4450 250 10
8644K49 $176.11
Aluminum Epoxy— Provides a dimensionally stable surface with minimal shrinkage.
-40° to +225° F 50-60 12-18 Hours Gray 0.0012" 86D 5300 15 2.7
87045K51 $48.60
Aluminum Urethane— Thermally conductive, fast setting, and highly machinable. Cures to a realistic metal finish.
-40° to +250° F 5-6 12-18 Hours Gray 0.001" 83D 4046 83 5
87155K44 $57.96
334 20
87155K46 $142.22
RTV Silicone— Protect electronic connections from oxidation.
-70° to +400° F 120 16-24 Hours Blue 0.001" 65A 710 22 1
8595K77 $39.08
48 2.2
8595K65 $73.13
242 11
8595K11 $290.56
Acrylic— This fast setting compound cures in minutes.
-350° to +350° F 2-3 8 Minutes Light Blue 0" 90D 3415 20 1
1355T33 $76.43
62 3
1355T34 $160.64
Silica Ceramic— Offers high thermal-shock resistance combined with low thermal expansion and conductivity.
-200° to +2700° F 20 16-24 Hours White 0.013" Not Available 1500 155 10
8498K11 $85.82
Silicon Carbide Ceramic— Excellent resistance to erosion and oxidation. Use in applications requiring high heat transfer, such as metal casting molds.
-200° to +2700° F 20 16-24 Hours Black 0.015" Not Available 1500 119 10
8498K13 $85.82
Alumina Ceramic— Very high strength along with extreme temperature resistance.
-200° to +3000° F 20 16-24 Hours White 0.010" Not Available 1800 96 10
8498K35 $85.82
Zirconium Oxide— An extremely high-temperature ceramic that's ideal for metal handling applications; has excellent resistance to chemicals.
-200° to +4000° F 20 16-24 Hours Tan 0.010" Not Available 1200 69 10
8498K17 $114.45


WHICH ONES DO WE WANT?
Solid, Flexabile, Low-Viscosity????
This may be an old post but all the info isnt here nor in the other posts.