Alperovich

• Recommended Tools & Equipment
• Prepping the car.
• How to check Ball Joint in the rear
• Changing the Control Arm
• Installing a rear camber kit


Side note: sorry my car is dirty, I’ve been to busy to take car of her, but will be done this weekend , also I know it is not fully painted yet, and yes I do have 15in coupe wheels, that once were painted partially red, but only in the back.




Safety Stand
Jack
1/2in Drive Breaker Bar
1/2in drive Ratchet
1/2in drive 1in extension
Side cutters
Screw driver
½in drive 14mm socket
1/2in drive 17mm socket
1/2in drive 19mm socket (I use a deep)
17mm Combination Wrench (one end closed; one end open)
Auxiliary closed end wrench
Ball peen hammer
Heavy hammer
1/2in drive Torque Wrench (must at least go to 85ft-lbs)
Pickle Fork

Other things that maybe be needed:
Control arm; Ingalls camber kit

Please note, these are the only the tools/parts/equipment I have used to complete this DIY, other tools may also work.


First thing is to raise the car in the air, place it under a safety stand and remove the wheel.

1. Using a jack, raise the car into the air.


place the jack at the pinch weld.



2. Raise the car slightly
3. Using a Breaker bar and a 19mm socket, break the lug nuts loose.


4. Raise the car the rest of the way into the air.
5. Then place a jack stand under the under carriage.


I place mine on the inner side of the lower control arm, but not on the control arm, instead on the under carriage
6. Lower the jack so that it weight of the car sits on the jack.
7. Remove the wheel.
Some how I forgot to take a picture of this

Checking the condition of the Rear ball joints.

This can be done with the wheel on or off the car. With the wheel still on the car, and bolted up, it may be easier to spot a slightly warn ball joint. It is still not in poor condition just slightly warn.

1. Follow steps in prep.
2. Using the jack, raise the wheel assembly via the shock (this must be done via the shock, to place the load properly!) to the same position as the Control arms would be at ride height.

(photobucket will not let me rotate the pictures, wtf! I’ll fit it soon!)
3. Now place one hand at the top of the rotor/wheel


and the other at the bottom


and wiggle the assembly, the assembly should have NO play, that is not solid with the moment of the rest of the suspension.
4. Check for movement at these main points

lower ball joint

upper ball joint

5. Also inspect ALL the bushings
6. If you feel play and it not any of the ball joint nor bushings, then your bearing needs service.

Changing the Rear upper control arm.

1. Follow steps from prep
2. Loosen and remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket.

3. Move the shock slightly out of the way and loosen and remove the upper control arm, middle bolt, using the 17mm socket.

4. Remove coder pin from the upper ball joint castle nut using the side cutters, and a screw driver.


(again for some reason it wont let me rotate the picture, I’ll fix this)


5. Now using a 17mm wrench and the auxiliary wrench


remove the castle nut from the ball joint


6. Once removed grab the ball peen hammer, heavy hammer and a pickle fork

7. Tap the ball joint with the ball peen hammer to loosen the taper, then insert the pickle fork between the hub and the ball joint, placing the flat side UP

8. once inserted hit the pickle fork with the heavy hammer, keep hitting until the ball joint pops up, if it does not pop up and the pickle fork will not go in farther, hit the pickle fork down towards the ground until ball joints pops up.

9. Unbolt the upper control arm from the body.

10. using a 14mm socket unbolt one, and then the other



and remove the bolts


11. Now pull on the rotor toward yourself


while moving the back of the control arm down past the under carriage



12. once you get it past the under carriage the ball joint should pop out completely


13. Now while moving the shock out of the way, pull the control arm off the radius rod

14. Now compare the new and old control arm to make sure they are the same and nothing is missing.




15. Now reinstall the control arm.
slide it onto the radius rod


pull the control arm over the under carriage and insert the ball joint into the hub


16. raise the wheel assembly to slightly ride height to ease the installation of the rear bolts (to help the bolt holes alight better)
then use a punch to align the bolt holes.



17. Now use a punch to fully align the bolt holes, if you are going to be using a camber kit, follow the directions for that to install the camber kit during this process.


18. Once a bolt hole is aligned insert the bolt into the open hole and screw it down part way

19. Remove the punch and insert the remaining bolt and screw it down part way.


20. Screw in and tighten the middle bolt



21. now reinstall the ball joint castle nut, use a new one if supplied, and reinsert the coder pin, use a new one if supplied.

22. Now using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts down to spec
rear bolts 30ft-lbs
middle bolt 62fl-lbs
the castle nut take 36-43fl-lbs but unless you have a very very tiny torque wrench, just tighten as much as they will go, while stilling being able to reinsert the coder pin

23. Reinstall the lower shock bolt. You might have to use the jack to raise the shock closer to the hub, DO NOT FORCE THE WHEEL ASSEBLY DOWN!


after you insert it, use a ball peen hammer to force it farther into the hole

24. once installed tighten the bolt to 76fl-lbs

25. Now perform the steps in checking the ball joint for play to confirm the repair, if all is success full there should be ZERO play.

26. Reinstall Wheel, and toque the lugs to 85ft-lbs and lower the car off the jack stand. Follow reverse procedure from earlier.

BONUS!
Installing a camber kit.

1. Follow the steps in prep
2. using a 14mm, Remove the two bolts holding the control arm to the body

3. Insert washer between body and control arm



do that on both sides.
4. tighten the bolts down to 30fl-lbs

5. follow reverse procedure from prep.

Thats it your done. Have a cigarett; smoke your favorite smoking deviece, drink a beer! do what ever it is you have to do once your all done!

ALEX

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

 

lgnd4u2nv

great DIY!!! this will come in handy in the future.

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The Performance Handling Sedan
Ksport Coilovers, MLS strut bar, Fut's rear tie bars, ADDCO rear sway bar


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Hotstartup

wicked DIY!!!! ever get the tie rods one done?

Alperovich

no sorry, i didn't end up having to have to replace them, it ended up being a rear control arm, on the other side, and then followed by this side. however, If i get time, i'll do it, i'm working 40hr weeks plus going to school now, i'll try and make time to do it, i can't promise anything though.

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

mrkeith

Thank you

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The performance handling machine...

If you've got coil-overs, corner-balance them!
Please protect our environment: use a high-flow.

Ballistic

Great shots man!

Now, I have not done my homework on suspension mods. But for installing the ingalls rear camber kit, all you do is add washers?

Hotstartup

yup for the rear you just add washers, if you get horse shoe type washers u dont even have to get the nut out, just needa loosen it. i found it to be a pain to line up the bolts again.

Ballistic

I'll be heading to Lowes in the future!

mrkeith

Yo--just like Mertz hinted: hit the hardware store and buy washers.
The Ingalls _rear_ kit is great, but expensive!

k.

__________________

The performance handling machine...

If you've got coil-overs, corner-balance them!
Please protect our environment: use a high-flow.

Alperovich

your welcome, now that i have my ball joints in check, the corners are getting , that and a custom chip thanx to telion

yeah, i cost me like $20 for the set (both sides) from tirerack.com; just get high grade washers, or goto napa and buy control arm spacers, it the horse shoe type, they are easier to install, also you don't need new extension bolts but they do help.

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

Alperovich

Thanx now if i only had a better camera, i guess it must run the family

ps. sorry for all the not so good shots, i didn't have a tripod to you and it was getting dark

__________________
~Alex

94 GS
MLS Bar; FUT rear ties; ADDCO rear sway bar; Blackend Engine Damper; EBC Yellow pads; D/S Rotors; Enkei EVO5's
Alpine HU+Speakers; 93 front bumper; Matte Black grill; Stromung axle-back 2.5 tips

sugerbear008

thanx for the great diy this answered a bunch of question i had

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Guidance and protection. Bless

Telion

Another Great DIY between you and Swift there's no need for a manual haha, Don't know how I missed the compliment on the chip either so a long over due thanks on that too!

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http://telionsite.com or search Telion Chip
3.5, TII cams,pnp mani & springs,Telion Chip,HID's,H&R's/Koni's,Addco Sway bars,TII calipers,RH C2's,R.J. shifter,DV8 EGR plate,CAI,OBX headers,2.5" exhaust,hi-flow cat,K2 muffler,Stage III clutch,S&D rotors, KVR pads, blackend damper, a CF hood, AFC NEO, 3.5 Aluminum pulley, & Web cams. C&R Racing radiator and more to come.

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