body9599

Alternator Brush Replacement DIY

Materials:
new brush holder w/ brushes PN: 31105-PZ1-003 $20

Tools:
8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets
small flat screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
rubber mallet

Purpose: Replace the worn alternator brushes to restore performance and extend life of the factory alternator.

Background: Alternators contain brushes that contact the pulley driven shaft which transfer electrical power within the alternator. As the alternator spins it slowly wears these down over the course of many years. The brushes are sold in a “holder” unit which is easily replaced. The same holds true for the voltage regulator which can be swapped out easily.

Procedure:
Disconnect the battery to prevent electrical discharge. Remove the black plastic pieces that cover the alternator and power steering pulleys. These are 10mm bolts and nuts. Once exposed disconnect the electrical connections…1 plug and 1 ring terminal held in with a 10mm bolt. Locate the 14mm bolt and 12mm nut holding the alternator in place. Also remove the alternator tensioner bolt…topside 10mm.



Once loose, use the rubber mallet if loose does not come easy, remove the alternator for the mounting bracket and place on your work bench. Remove the three 8mm cover nuts and the single 10mm nut holding the black rectifier insulator. Use the small flat screwdriver to slowly work the gray metal cover off.



With the cover removed…remove the two Philips screws holding the orange holder assembly in place. Once removed the assembly should pull right out. The regulator is also here and easily accessible if you need/want to replace it. You may notice a build up of black dust in the shaft area…blow this out with compressed air...it’s the worn dust from the old brushes.



Now you can compare the old to the new brushes.



As you can see there are two “brushes” in the holder assembly.



Use the small flat screwdriver to press each brush down as you insert the new holder assembly. Once seated properly replace and tighten the holder screws and reverse rest of instructions for reassembly and reinstallation. Reinstalling the alternator tension bolt can be tricky…it can be done without removing the power steering pump, but doing so may make it easier. Tension the belt, replace the covers and reconnect your battery…done.

For under 20 bucks you have fixed your brush related electrical problems without spending hundreds on a new alternator. These OEM units are stout, but brushes do wear out and are made to be replaced.

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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

 

5speed

Nice DIY! Thanks!

sam o nela

Sweet!!! Ive still got my old Alt safe in the garage....now i can use it on my engine swap!

Eric

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HotLegend87

Wow, nice. Moving to DIY Forum...

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Charles
JVC KD-SX990 MP3 CD Player
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body9599

Thanks Guys!

__________________

1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

chuckee98

body9599, did you use OEM replacement parts? If so, can you post the part numbers for future reference? If not, post where you got them for future reference?

Good job. I think you deserve the title of "G1 DIY King".

body9599

Thanks dude...check out the materials section for the part number and cost....it is OEM. I got it from acuraoemparts.com

__________________

1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

chuckee98

Doh! Did I miss that? Or did you just add that because I asked?

THANKS!

body9599

it was already there...no worries

__________________

1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

maytagman

anyone have any tips on getting the tensioner bolt back in?

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digger89L

Yes ...remove the engine lift bracket near the alternator. This gives you lots of room to work. Leave the lift bracket off and store it in the tool pouch under the spare tire ...in case you need it in future.

telafonic

I hope after over a year he figured out how to put it back in.

BTW, to OP that engine is so clean I love it.

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Various G1 and G2 parts For Sale

digger89L

Hey ....I was just noodlin' around, and decided to add my 2 cents. Didn't expect "change" ....LOL.

Capn Jimbo

Re: 90 Acura Integra, 220K

Thanks very much for a great DIY. My alternator stopped charging, red light on at idle, off at higher rpms, but still no real charging (best was 12.6 volts). I did dread removing the alternator, so put it up on jackstands and after a good look decided there would be plenty of room to take it up and out if I removed the master cylinder.

But then decided to see if I could do a minor rebuild with the alternator in the car - removed the connectors, working from below was able to remove the cover. Found the phillips head screws holding the brush assembly to be stuck, and not wanting to damage the screws, sprayed some good penetrating oil on them, took a break. Used a brand new stubby phillips head, perfect fit, able to put good pressure on the screws and they broke loose nicely.

The brush holder came out easily, and I discovered considerable and uneven wear on the brushes (one was about 3/16 the other 1/16).

My plan is to replace just the brushes, then see what happens, make sure regulator is OK - but this will be easy to change now.

Bottom line: seems like it's worth an in-car brush replacement before having to do the big job. Again, thanks...