WhtCastle

Ok, there was another walkthrough about this from 03, but the pics have since stopped working and I wasn't sure how to follow it on words alone, so I did another one. I didn't think to do a How-To and take pics until I had already gotten some of it done, but I will do the best I can to describe everything. This was done on an 88 Std. coupe, I assume it will be pretty much the same for all first gen.

This walkthrough is written assuming you already have a head unit and remote/RCA cables connected to the head unit. Also to note: My car has had I don't know what done to it, so your rear seats might not be as easy to pull up as mine are, I do not know. I can only write this based on my experiences with my car. I hope/assume everything will be about the same for others though.

Tools you will need:
1. Standard phillips screwdriver. (Door sills, 3 interior screws, ground and possibly needed for your amp.)
2: 1/2in wrench (Battery terminal.)
3: 11 metric wrench (Footrest pedal and screw for power wire to battery terminal.)
4: (1) 14x1 screw + 1/4" washer (For ground.)
5: Any tools for adjusting/mounting you amp.




First thing to do is pop the hood, open the doors and trunk. Go ahead and take the driver and pass. door sills off. (4 screws each.) Remove floor mats as well.



If you are going to check your ECU, leave the battery connected, if not, disconnect the battery now. Go ahead and pull up the passenger carpet, you should only need to pull it back about as far as you would to check ECU. Go ahead and see if you got any odd blinks going since you have the carpet pulled up. If you have not already disconnected battery, do so now. Go back to where you have pulled up the carpet, and you should see this piece screwed in under the glovebox.


(Of course yours will be mounted in the car, not on the ground :p )

There will be just 3 screws holding this part in, unscrew them and remove the piece, and set and the screws off to the side. You should now see a large white plastic piece. At the back of this piece near the firewall, you should be able to find a small tube that connects to it and runs through the firewall. Just pull this off.


Get under the hood, and pull this hose completely out. You should be left with this.

You can do 2 things with this now: Make the gromet larger to accompany the wire AND the hose, or just throw away the gromet. If you are going to cut it larger, go ahead and do so now, and leave it on the power cable when you feed it through. Just set the hose aside for now.

Go ahead and run your power cable now from the engine compartment into this hole. You should be able to run it through no problems.


Go ahead and pull as much power cable through as you need. Start hiding it under the carpet and panels on the pass side as much as you can. Wherever you are running this power cord, run your remote cable as well. Where the door sills were taken off, you can pull the carpet back and tuck both cables down in there, under the plastic box item that runs the length of the door.

Run your cables behind the seatbelt(s) and continue to just tuck them under the interior panels. Once you get to the rear seats, just pull it up and tuck the wiring down under. Pull up the bottom corner of the seat backs, you should be able to feed the cable through there then.

It was hard to get a pic, but if you just feel around in there you can feel for a small opening, try to feed both wires through it. You will just need to feed a few inches in. Once you have done that, go to the trunk and just look/feel in the corner until you can find the wires and pull them through as much as you need.

This is on the bottom corner in the trunk, just search for the wires, they will be there.

Now that those are run through, get down to where the pedals are on the driver side. Pull up the rubber foot rest pedal. Now get the 11 wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the plate there, and set it off to the side. Pull the driver side carpet up.

Run this wiring just how we did the remote and power cable; everything will be done the same. Once you have fed them through enough, get in the trunk and pull back the side carpeting on the driver side. Pull your RCA cables through. While this is pulled back, you should see 2 holes near the wheel well. The one that is closest to the rear of the car is where we will put our 14x1 screw and the 1/4 washer for the ground. I lightly sanded mine down.

We should now have all wires running to the trunk as needed. Go ahead and hook up your amp, then reconnect the battery and make sure it comes on and that everything works. I would suggest hooking up your sub and such and making sure it works as it should.

Assuming everything comes on as it should, turn off the car and disconnect the battery again. Reconfigure the wires in your trunk for how you want them, mount the amp and then wire everything back up and put the sub in, etc. until everything in the trunk is set how you want it to look. Put the carpet on driver side back to how it should be, put the metal plate for foot rest back on then put the rubber part back on. Put driver door sill back on.

Go ahead and get the hose that we pulled of earlier. I found it easier to now feed it from the cab into the engine compartment, and then pull it back to reconnect it to the white plastic housing. Fit it into the gromet with the power cable if this is what you chose to do from earlier. Once that is done, get back into the engine compartment and angle it back down to how it was previously.


Go ahead and screw the black plastic piece back to where it was on the pass. side. Put the carpet back to how it was, and then put the pass. door sill back on. Check fluids since you have the hood open, then reconnect the battery. Check it out one more time to make sure it works (No reason it wouldn't, right?) and have enjoy!

I think this is my first in detail how-to, I might have missed something or worded something wrong. If any problems just ask!

 

djlouie

Awsome, nice job

WhtCastle

Haha.....Remember to break in your subs people! I got too greedy too quickly and blew my sub....R.I.P. SBR-122CR! Lasted a good 2 years.

HotLegend87

Copying to DIY section...

__________________
Charles
JVC KD-SX990 MP3 CD Player
Rally Xtreme FX Halogen Driving Lights (Fogs)
CrimeStopper SuperRage IV Car Alarm w/Keyless Entry and Remote Start
Custom Dash Mat w/Arizona State University Logo
Fuzzy Dice

8n9ne Legend

Damn great DIY, I'd hate to drill into my car, and the only possible hole was where my speedo cable goes, and man that was a whore to squeeze through. Im going to do this right now!

robriguez

My only concern with this install is the lack of a grommet where the power cable goes through the firewall. Unless I am missing something [quite possible] you have the hose and the cable squeezed through the same opening. So, then the tube is applying pressure to the cable pressing it into the edge of the hole and over time with vibration and such the rubber sheath of the power cable is going to be worn down and eventually you WILL have a short there. If it doesnt start a fire it could kill your battery and/or electrical system.

I would highly recommend making that hole bigger and then adding a hard rubber grommet to solve the problem.


P.S.
having to break in a sub is complete garbage. I have heard people say its necessary for years and I have never once seen any actual proof of this A) being necessary and B) having any real affect on the speaker. If such a "break-in" is truely required to "loosen" the meterials to get them working properly, one can then assume that the materials will continue to "loosen" even more over time leading to the degredation of the speaker to the point of failure. Yes most high power subs are stiff from the factory. A good quality sub will ALWAYS be stiff. Stiff = GOOD.

Copied and pasted from a audiophile site I visit.

__________________

95 Acura Legend L, 5-spd, custom Type F interior.

8n9ne Legend

well rob I guess i will make some make-shift object to protect the outside of the wire. I knew something was off, but not quite sure, and this is it. Thanks for the heads up!

robriguez

Even just a peice of cardboard. Otherwise Good job man!

__________________

95 Acura Legend L, 5-spd, custom Type F interior.

WhtCastle

Without the gromet there is plenty of room to spare; or like I said you can just make the hole larger. (From what I can recall - this was quite a while ago.) But yes; possibly even just some heat shrink around said area would be a good idea.

The break in is always a point of argument with different ways of doing and not doing it. I always have and will continue to do so though.

*edit* Once I get around to doing an install on the new Legend, I will do a much much better DIY.

sam o nela

Grommets are easy to come by and cheap insurance! I'm +1'ing that suggestion!!

__________________


<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>

m1ndless

Awesome, thanks!

lloydapalooza

Great DIY, it helped me alot but i have a question.

What is the hose for? i just pulled it out and left the rubber grommet in to protect the cable.

WhtCastle

I believe it's for condensation from the A/C system? Can someone confirm or deny this? I plan on doing a much better one for this soon.