I've just gotten a blown headgasket myself and now I'm thinking about doing it myself like you guys but I have a couple questions. What are we sending to the heads to the machineshop for, ie the name of the servicing? Should we replace all the other hoses, which and how many are there? Should I use a higher grade kit like fel-pro or one of the cheap knockoffs on ebay?
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95 L Blk on Blk
-Jdm Headlights
-18 Diablo Viennas
Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk
Car 2: 1999 Acura 3.5RL
Car 3: 2004 GMC Sierra Z71
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaOutlaw
I've just gotten a blown headgasket myself and now I'm thinking about doing it myself like you guys but I have a couple questions. What are we sending to the heads to the machineshop for, ie the name of the servicing? Should we replace all the other hoses, which and how many are there? Should I use a higher grade kit like fel-pro or one of the cheap knockoffs on ebay?
I've used the Fel-Pro kit before without any problems. I recommend OEM at least for the head gaskets, and use the Fel-Pro kit for everything else if you plan on keeping the car for a long time.
The machining service you're going to be requesting is a Pressure check on both heads (checks for cracks & burnt valves), then mill both heads flat (ensures a flat surface to the block.
Make sure you have a die grinder and some 3M bristle discs to clean the block deck surface of any residue from the old gasket.
Car 1: 1990 Acura Legend 2 Dr L
Car 2: 1999 Mustang V6
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
cylinder head DIY
I wonder if it wouldn't be faster to remove the engine from the car first?
This is a second generation Legend, but on my 90 Legend it took about one day (8 hours) to remove the engine, and a bit more time to reinstall it, and with it out of the car removing the heads could easily be done in half a day. It would be a lot easier with adequate space to work.
I wonder if it wouldn't be faster to remove the engine from the car first?
This is a second generation Legend, but on my 90 Legend it took about one day (8 hours) to remove the engine, and a bit more time to reinstall it, and with it out of the car removing the heads could easily be done in half a day. It would be a lot easier with adequate space to work.
Yes, but youre disconnecting more than you need to.. I found the intake manifold and heads simple to remove, it took me two half days.. There were so many little brackets to unbolt from the back.. NO FREAKIN WAY AM I REBOLTING THESE BRACKETS BACK ON!!! I'm just going to zip tie them out of the way to make it easier..so next time i can just get right to unbolting the intake manifold and disconnecting the necessary hoses/bolts..
so i stared my HG job last night. my hands are dirty as hell and cut to shit. we're only about 7 hours in and i'm about to loosen the head bolts and then we're halfway there. and i managed to not break anything so far including those pesky knock sensors WOOT!
i think i'm gonna have a few "spare parts" too many fucking brackets
Car 1: 92 Acura Legend LuxuryPerformanceSedan
Car 2: 97 BMW 528I
Car 3: 99 Montero Sport
iTrader Score: 6 reviews
the G2 legends do come with a lot of brackets, i just got my gaskets changed for $600 and man am i happy i finally got it done, no more up and down temp gauge or gurggline in the heater core, the only thing is i also had to change both knock sensor because they were broken, but got them $100 each at autozone compared to 200/260 each at other places so i was
Ok I've finally got all the things together to start this job, but it got me thinking. Since I don't have a garage I can do this in leaving me with no choice but to do it in the driveway between me and my neighbors house. So when I disconnect the fuel filter leaving the fuel lines exposed, wouldn't this be kind of dangerous with smokers all around me?
__________________
95 L Blk on Blk
-Jdm Headlights
-18 Diablo Viennas
Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk
Car 2: 1999 Acura 3.5RL
Car 3: 2004 GMC Sierra Z71
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaOutlaw
Ok I've finally got all the things together to start this job, but it got me thinking. Since I don't have a garage I can do this in leaving me with no choice but to do it in the driveway between me and my neighbors house. So when I disconnect the fuel filter leaving the fuel lines exposed, wouldn't this be kind of dangerous with smokers all around me?
Not a lot of gas will come out. When you disconnect it, just make sure nobody is lighting a cigarette. The cigarette itself won't ignite fuel, but the lighter will.
Car 1: 1995 Acura Legend Coupe LS, Type II
Car 2: 1988 Cavi Z24 Drop
iTrader Score: 4 reviews
Question. I am using the 12mm impact socket to take off the exhaust to the head but when I stick up to get on the nut it seems too big. Just spins right around it. Could some one have used a different size?
Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk
Car 2: 1999 Acura 3.5RL
Car 3: 2004 GMC Sierra Z71
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoRegrets
Question. I am using the 12mm impact socket to take off the exhaust to the head but when I stick up to get on the nut it seems too big. Just spins right around it. Could some one have used a different size?
Rochelle
Sometimes those bolts get rusty and lose some of their edges. I would try an 11mm and beat it on there with a hammer. Sometimes, I've had to take an oxygen/acetylene torch to those bolts to help break them loose.
Worst case scenario, use good vice grips and get as much on it as you can.
Car 1: 91LS Coupe w/ typeII swap
Car 2: 1966 Mustang
Car 3: 06 GTI 2.0 turbo
iTrader Score: 3 reviews
When getting at the TB /water pump, Iceman says to remove the front engine mounts, and jack the engine up to clear the frame. Is this necessary? I notice in the service manual it doesn't mention anything about this step.
Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk
Car 2: 1999 Acura 3.5RL
Car 3: 2004 GMC Sierra Z71
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevanTheDude
When getting at the TB /water pump, Iceman says to remove the front engine mounts, and jack the engine up to clear the frame. Is this necessary? I notice in the service manual it doesn't mention anything about this step.
That is NOT necessary at all. I'm not sure why he put that in there.
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