Head Gasket D.I.Y. - Page 13

Cdratz · 05-18-07, 02:34 PM

Well guys, I just dropped my heads off at the shop....

The guy was cool and told me it would be $80 for the milling and he told me that the compression was AT HALF what it should be, oh man I can't wait for all the extra power! but that is gonna cost $180... Should have them back on tues, had hopefully running by friday....

Cant wait....

JamLegend · 05-24-07, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Diaz

That is NOT necessary at all. I'm not sure why he put that in there.

I believe the type II engines have a bracket in front of the main pulley that you have to remove. With it removed, you still have to pull the two front engine mounts and then jack the engine up to get the pulley out....otherwise the subframe is in the way. I had to do this when I did the TB/WP on my GS but didn't need to do it when I did the head gaskets on the 91 sedan.

Hope this helps.

**Mike Diaz** · 05-25-07, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamLegend

I believe the type II engines have a bracket in front of the main pulley that you have to remove. With it removed, you still have to pull the two front engine mounts and then jack the engine up to get the pulley out....otherwise the subframe is in the way. I had to do this when I did the TB/WP on my GS but didn't need to do it when I did the head gaskets on the 91 sedan.

Hope this helps.

You do not need to remove the mounts. All you need to remove is the center support, and it's held in by 4 14mm bolts, and one 14mm from the top. There's 3 14mm bolts at the bottom that will release the rubber mount you're talking about. Once again, you do not need to remove the two side engine mounts, nor do you need to jack up the engine. Just remove the center suppport, then the rubber mount underneath it.

AllCammedUp · 06-20-07, 01:22 PM

Just a FYI, but I just ordered the harmonic balancer hold-down tool from http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ and it was well over $10 cheaper than ordering from thetoolwarehouse.com (they tacked on a $19 shipping charge that took the total order to almost $70).

T&A · 06-27-07, 01:23 AM

After eons of not looking at the ride after I picked up the heads...I finally decided to start putting it back together.
Passenger head went on easy like. We put the gasket and dowels on the block and slid the head on. But the d*mn driver side wasn't so cooperative. Tried the same method as the passenger but the gasket kept getting caught/bent near exhaust manifold. So tried with the gasket/dowel in the head and attempted to slide it on...NOPE. While tryin to get the bolts in the exhaust pipe never could line up the dowels, had to pry it back off.
Long story short ...ruined the gasket. WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO GET THE DRIVERS SIDE ON? (after I get my new gasket

)

Rochelle

paddy_21 · 08-03-07, 02:22 PM

I started replacing my HG's two weeks ago. Here's a few tips:
Expect to need other parts for assembly!
- I had to get new studs for the exhaust headers because a few broke.
- Also need new o-rings for the injectors because they dry rotted with over 200k miles!
- Had to replace the timing tensioner because I tried to adjust it incorrectly and bent it!
- The worst though was when I found part of the head gasket on the bench when I was "Done"

So I'm starting over. It shouldn't take 16 hours this time now that I "know what I'm doing." but it's still a btch!

The manual says to oil the head bolts before you torque them. Don't take this for granted - there is a difference between wet torque & dry... I didn't lube them so naturally they were under torqued and on my test drive I had some terrible leaking, in addition to running a little hot!

What's the consensus - Should you replace the bolts on a head gasket job? Where can you get them from?

Good luck - don't suck. Unlike me, pay attention to detail.

T&A · 08-03-07, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paddy_21

I started replacing my HG's two weeks ago. Here's a few tips:
Expect to need other parts for assembly!
- I had to get new studs for the exhaust headers because a few broke.
- Also need new o-rings for the injectors because they dry rotted with over 200k miles!
- Had to replace the timing tensioner because I tried to adjust it incorrectly and bent it!
- The worst though was when I found part of the head gasket on the bench when I was "Done"

So I'm starting over. It shouldn't take 16 hours this time now that I "know what I'm doing." but it's still a btch!

The manual says to oil the head bolts before you torque them. Don't take this for granted - there is a difference between wet torque & dry... I didn't lube them so naturally they were under torqued and on my test drive I had some terrible leaking, in addition to running a little hot!

What's the consensus - Should you replace the bolts on a head gasket job? Where can you get them from?

Good luck - don't suck. Unlike me, pay attention to detail.

What part of the gasket was on the bench?

paddy_21 · 08-03-07, 04:33 PM

One of these two little suckers...

Son of A!

AllCammedUp · 08-03-07, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paddy_21

What's the consensus - Should you replace the bolts on a head gasket job? Where can you get them from?

Good luck - don't suck. Unlike me, pay attention to detail.

For parts, I've been shopping here as of late and have been very satisfied: http://www.sonsacuraparts.com/sons/jsp/home.jsp

Most say that they don't need to be replaced if you are over-torquing them. However on my BHG repair-job in progress, I am replacing them just to be safe... it's cheap insurance.

Good luck.

T&A · 08-03-07, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paddy_21

One of these two little suckers...

Son of A!

Same part popped out on my driver side HG so I ordered another one. I was not a happy camper. What do them little parts do/prevent?

Rochelle

DevanTheDude · 09-20-07, 01:43 AM

quick question to anyone thats done this- Is it necessary to use sealent on the water pump? It looks pretty sloppy and it seems like just the WP gasket being torqued down correctly to a clean block should seal up. Did you guys use extra sealant? anyone have any leaks?

WJKJR · 09-20-07, 01:47 AM

My BHG project is almost finished. On the first start, both valve cover gaskets leaked like crazy. Come to find out, the eristic gaskets are crap and don't fit properly..strike one for them. Wound up using the original used OEM's...they were in better shape than the aftermarkets and they don't leak. I will replace them later. Filled the radiator with water and and topped off the oil..second start up...no problems no leaks.....bled the cooling system and it worked just like the jetdoc said.....temp gauge rock solid. The only thing left to do now is to do another oil change, flush radiator and add coolant. Also I need power steering fluid....I don't know where it went, but after I started the car, I noticed it was low. I also have a hand full of brackets that need to be put back on....I've tried to find the locations but I think I am going to need some pics of them installed. I also have a few sockets resting on the chassis somewhere that need to be retrieved along with a couple of nuts and bolts....Time wise the project has taken somewhere in the 20-30hr range. I started the project mid June and have only worked on the car during the week in the evenings a couple of hours each night for 2 or three nights per week with my friend..I have to give him most of the credit. He's done most of the work. The work tho has been rather slow. The caveats of the project was breaking the cam seal cap on my left head. That same day a knock sensor was broken removing the plug....those damn sensors are too dang brittle. I ordered another head and it took over 3 weeks to get. So after I got all of the machine work done, and started reassembly, it was August. If you asked me if I would do it again, I'm not sure. The cost savings really isn't that much when you wind up spending what you might have saved on the extra parts that you replaced because you were already torn down. Water pump and timing belt are a no brainer, the but other stuff like the exhaust bolts and nuts are expensive. A shop most likely would have just replaced the ones that broke and that would be it. My project cost was around $1200 so I saved around $400 from what I was quoted.

brynosaur · 12-28-07, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DevanTheDude

quick question to anyone thats done this- Is it necessary to use sealent on the water pump? It looks pretty sloppy and it seems like just the WP gasket being torqued down correctly to a clean block should seal up. Did you guys use extra sealant? anyone have any leaks?

im sure were all too good for 'instructions'

but my replacement water pump that came with a page of instructions. advocating the use of sealant. i did and it hasnt leaked a drop in the 200 miles since i put everything back together.

BayAreasFinest · 01-14-08, 03:15 PM

just did my BHG job this helped alot, thanks

Dethred · 01-14-08, 08:37 PM

Use the sealant! It beats starting up the car and finding out the Water Pump is leaking.

When I was installing a new waterpump the gasket for the upper plenum connection wouldn't stay put so I just used a butt load of RTV and it hasn't leaked in a few years. Same with the left rear coolant passage, my headgasket kit didn't even have a new gasket for it, so RTV did the job!

Also, make sure there is no water in the oil. If you remove the heads without draining the block, Anti freeze will fill up the cylinders and drain through to the sump. I ended up driving 20 minutes with water in the sump and the engine has been rough ever since.

06-20-07, 01:22 PM	#184 (permalink)
AllCammedUp I'm being owned by my BHG Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 329 Car 1: 1991 LS Sedan iTrader: (4)	Just a FYI, but I just ordered the harmonic balancer hold-down tool from http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ and it was well over $10 cheaper than ordering from thetoolwarehouse.com (they tacked on a $19 shipping charge that took the total order to almost $70). __________________ Thanks, Whitney

06-27-07, 01:23 AM	#185 (permalink)
T&A Still NoRegrets Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Obamaha, Nebraska Posts: 1,380 Car 1: 1995 Acura Legend Coupe LS, Type II Car 2: 1988 Cavi Z24 Drop iTrader: (4)	Still Not Finished After eons of not looking at the ride after I picked up the heads...I finally decided to start putting it back together. Passenger head went on easy like. We put the gasket and dowels on the block and slid the head on. But the dmn driver side wasn't so cooperative. Tried the same method as the passenger but the gasket kept getting caught/bent near exhaust manifold. So tried with the gasket/dowel in the head and attempted to slide it on...NOPE. While tryin to get the bolts in the exhaust pipe never could line up the dowels, had to pry it back off. Long story short ...ruined the gasket. WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO GET THE DRIVERS SIDE ON? (after I get my new gasket ) Rochelle __________________ -"Money allows you to be who you truly are."*

08-03-07, 02:22 PM	#186 (permalink)
paddy_21 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PA Posts: 2 Car 1: 1991 Legend LS 4 Door iTrader: (0)	16hrs & an Opps I started replacing my HG's two weeks ago. Here's a few tips: Expect to need other parts for assembly! - I had to get new studs for the exhaust headers because a few broke. - Also need new o-rings for the injectors because they dry rotted with over 200k miles! - Had to replace the timing tensioner because I tried to adjust it incorrectly and bent it! - The worst though was when I found part of the head gasket on the bench when I was "Done" So I'm starting over. It shouldn't take 16 hours this time now that I "know what I'm doing." but it's still a btch! The manual says to oil the head bolts before you torque them. Don't take this for granted - there is a difference between wet torque & dry... I didn't lube them so naturally they were under torqued and on my test drive I had some terrible leaking, in addition to running a little hot! What's the consensus - Should you replace the bolts on a head gasket job? Where can you get them from? Good luck - don't suck. Unlike me, pay attention to detail. __________________ ~Paddy

08-03-07, 04:33 PM	#188 (permalink)
paddy_21 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PA Posts: 2 Car 1: 1991 Legend LS 4 Door iTrader: (0)	One of these two little suckers... Son of A! __________________ ~Paddy

01-14-08, 03:15 PM	#194 (permalink)
BayAreasFinest Its a Legend baby Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Bay Area Posts: 804 Car 1: 1991 Auto iTrader: (6)	just did my BHG job this helped alot, thanks __________________ 1991 4 door auto 15.15 @ 91.17: CAI, EGR block plate ************************************** KA8 Vinyled Coupe Taillights http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...3/#post1302298 ********************************************** ********

05-18-07, 02:34 PM	#181 (permalink)
Cdratz Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Denver Posts: 19 Car 1: 1994 Lexus ES300 Car 2: 1994 Acura Legend iTrader: (1)	Well guys, I just dropped my heads off at the shop.... The guy was cool and told me it would be $80 for the milling and he told me that the compression was AT HALF what it should be, oh man I can't wait for all the extra power! but that is gonna cost $180... Should have them back on tues, had hopefully running by friday.... Cant wait....

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09-20-07, 01:43 AM	#191 (permalink)
DevanTheDude AKA Nicco Bellic Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: seattle, WA Posts: 500 Car 1: 91LS Coupe w/ typeII swap Car 2: 1966 Mustang Car 3: 06 GTI 2.0 turbo iTrader: (3)	quick question to anyone thats done this- Is it necessary to use sealent on the water pump? It looks pretty sloppy and it seems like just the WP gasket being torqued down correctly to a clean block should seal up. Did you guys use extra sealant? anyone have any leaks?

09-20-07, 01:47 AM	#192 (permalink)
WJKJR Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 93 Car 1: 1994 Acura Legend L Model iTrader: (1)	My BHG project is almost finished. On the first start, both valve cover gaskets leaked like crazy. Come to find out, the eristic gaskets are crap and don't fit properly..strike one for them. Wound up using the original used OEM's...they were in better shape than the aftermarkets and they don't leak. I will replace them later. Filled the radiator with water and and topped off the oil..second start up...no problems no leaks.....bled the cooling system and it worked just like the jetdoc said.....temp gauge rock solid. The only thing left to do now is to do another oil change, flush radiator and add coolant. Also I need power steering fluid....I don't know where it went, but after I started the car, I noticed it was low. I also have a hand full of brackets that need to be put back on....I've tried to find the locations but I think I am going to need some pics of them installed. I also have a few sockets resting on the chassis somewhere that need to be retrieved along with a couple of nuts and bolts....Time wise the project has taken somewhere in the 20-30hr range. I started the project mid June and have only worked on the car during the week in the evenings a couple of hours each night for 2 or three nights per week with my friend..I have to give him most of the credit. He's done most of the work. The work tho has been rather slow. The caveats of the project was breaking the cam seal cap on my left head. That same day a knock sensor was broken removing the plug....those damn sensors are too dang brittle. I ordered another head and it took over 3 weeks to get. So after I got all of the machine work done, and started reassembly, it was August. If you asked me if I would do it again, I'm not sure. The cost savings really isn't that much when you wind up spending what you might have saved on the extra parts that you replaced because you were already torn down. Water pump and timing belt are a no brainer, the but other stuff like the exhaust bolts and nuts are expensive. A shop most likely would have just replaced the ones that broke and that would be it. My project cost was around $1200 so I saved around $400 from what I was quoted.

01-14-08, 08:37 PM	#195 (permalink)
Dethred Hi! I'm Ryan. Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Yorktown, VA Posts: 3,915 Car 1: 2008 Honda Civic Si Coupe Car 2: 92' Acura Legend 4DR iTrader: (2)	Use the sealant! It beats starting up the car and finding out the Water Pump is leaking. When I was installing a new waterpump the gasket for the upper plenum connection wouldn't stay put so I just used a butt load of RTV and it hasn't leaked in a few years. Same with the left rear coolant passage, my headgasket kit didn't even have a new gasket for it, so RTV did the job! Also, make sure there is no water in the oil. If you remove the heads without draining the block, Anti freeze will fill up the cylinders and drain through to the sump. I ended up driving 20 minutes with water in the sump and the engine has been rough ever since.

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