Rear ADDCO sway bar Install DIY

Telion · 02-10-07, 04:12 AM

Rear ADDCO sway bar Install DIY

I am doing this DIY because had I known it was really this simple the bar probably would have sat on my living room floor a few less days. As soon as you have the original removed you will notice the difference in size and weight, though the size is similar it is enough to create quite the difference!

Necessary tools

-Socket wrench or wrenches with the following sizes 12mm, 14mm
-A large wrench (I used 1" because it fit and was readily availabe)

Helpful tools

-Ramps (creates added space on a dropped car)
It was also mentioned that it was an easier job with the suspension in its natural position.
-A screwdriver (to line up the holes)

Steps

1. Remove the stock sway bar there are a total of 6 bolts
I recommend removing the shoulder bolts first (located near the shocks)
this way the bar will not hit you or fall while you are removing it

2. Install the new bar. On the installation I did just the opposite. I put the shoulder bolts on last so that I could line everything up before tightening it down. If you do not make longer shoulder bolts right away I suggest locktite to give added comfort that it won't come off. Theres no force on the bolts though so it will suffice short term. Included is a link to Stevierays Shoulder bolt DIY though to be safe. Thanks Stevieray!
Link to the shoulder bolt DIY http://acura-legend.com/vbulletin/sh...=Shoulder+bolt

3. enjoy the new stiffness of your rear end!

here's some pics to assist in seeing how easy this is. Please excuse how dirty the underside of my car is I promise the inside is clean!

The original bar.

It has a lot of gunk on it but in the center of the pick is the stock shoulder bolt. It is the same at both sides of the bar. The bolts is not locked in so you will need to lock the larger bolt in place (I used a 1" wrench) while you unscrew the nut with a 14mm socket or wrench.

You may be able to just pull the support brace off, if not tap it lightly

Then uscrew the support brackets holding the bar in place with a 12mm wrench (only four total all in plain view)

Reinstall your new bar (remember your washers I am sure they are provided with a reason)

Tighten that bad boy down and enjoy!

ivanj's review of the bar (not one from me yet need to get Koni's installed)

http://acura-legend.com/vbulletin/sh...ay+bar+install

antik · 02-10-07, 10:21 AM

Good DIY. I didn't receive any washers when I got my bar from ADDCO. This is a fairly easy install though from the sound of it, doing it w/o the suspension loaded to it's natural position is much harder - that's how I did it and I had to put my jack under one side of the car and push the wheel up a little in order to get it all to fit. Eventually it all worked though - it was just a pain.

Telion: I'd love to see a similar DIY for the front if you plan on doing one!

Telion · 02-10-07, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antik

Good DIY. I didn't receive any washers when I got my bar from ADDCO. This is a fairly easy install though from the sound of it, doing it w/o the suspension loaded to it's natural position is much harder - that's how I did it and I had to put my jack under one side of the car and push the wheel up a little in order to get it all to fit. Eventually it all worked though - it was just a pain.

Telion: I'd love to see a similar DIY for the front if you plan on doing one!

Thanks Antik and I sure do plan to do a DIY on the front one unless someone beats me to it. I am trying to make it a point that if I cannot find one that has already been done for whatever I work on on my car to do one for it as I go.

kotetu · 02-10-07, 11:33 PM

bookmarked. Thanks!

Kamrulius Maximus · 03-12-07, 08:51 PM

I have a question. Instead of making a whole new shoulder bolt, can I not just use a longer hex bolt and use everything else from old assembly?

*stevieray* · 03-14-07, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamrulius Maximus

I have a question. Instead of making a whole new shoulder bolt, can I not just use a longer hex bolt and use everything else from old assembly?

You could but making 2 new shoulder bolts will cost you about $10. Refer to this DIY here: ADDCO Sway Bar shoulder bolt DIY that I did about 2 1/2 years ago and you'll be good to go. I've done them for my Sedan, Josh's Coupe and Fut's GS and to my knowlwdge, they're all still holding up.

Telion · 03-15-07, 12:08 AM

Funny thing about that is that your link (and a thank you) is in the first part of this thread

*stevieray* · 03-15-07, 08:05 AM

That's what I get for staying up too late and not reading the entire thread.

antik · 03-15-07, 09:47 AM

Just to clarify - I thought the enlongated shoulder bolts were for the original version of the ADDCO bar which wasn't correctly machined on the ends and needed longer bolts. I thought it was an issue that had been resolved by ADDCO by thinning out that part of the bar?

That said, I've been running the stock shoulder bolt for months now without problems. It seemed like they fit just fine - there was plenty of room to tighten them down.

*stevieray* · 03-15-07, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antik

Just to clarify - I thought the enlongated shoulder bolts were for the original version of the ADDCO bar which wasn't correctly machined on the ends and needed longer bolts. I thought it was an issue that had been resolved by ADDCO by thinning out that part of the bar?

That said, I've been running the stock shoulder bolt for months now without problems. It seemed like they fit just fine - there was plenty of room to tighten them down.

I was not aware that ADDCO had done that. If so, the custom shoulder bolt is probably not necessary.

antik · 03-15-07, 11:43 AM

I thought I read somewhere that it had improved... though, it was still significantly thicker than stock.

I'll go back and double check that I'm not compacting the bushing too much and that the nut looks secure but I didn't have problems getting my OEM bolts to work and as I say, they've been on there for several months.

Kamrulius Maximus · 03-15-07, 04:05 PM

The reason I asked whether I can use a longer bolt or not because, I could not find most of the things (bolts, aluminum rod, etc.) in home depot. I don't know where to find them. I just bought 3/8" hex bolts, nuts, some washers, and lock washers. I'm gonna see how that works. It's getting cold again, so I have to do something about this today (since I have no garage).

Kamrulius Maximus · 03-15-07, 08:01 PM

Okay, I've installed the sway bar with original shoulder bolt. I guess addoco hasn't made the end of the bar thinner. Hopefully the current installation will hold for now until it gets a bit warmer. It was pain removing and putting back on the bolts by the muffler.

Oh, btw, the ride now is AWESOME! I can't believe only one bar can make so much difference in turning. I'm very impressed.

Telion · 03-16-07, 01:25 AM

Sweet glad to hear it . . .But if you thought that was a pain try the front. . .

bboarder711 · 03-22-07, 12:45 AM

any DIY for the front????

02-10-07, 04:12 AM	#1 (permalink)
Telion Of the Telion Chip Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hopefully In your ECU ;) Posts: 3,994 Car 1: White 91 KA8 5spd W/3.5, TII Cams & Manifold Car 2: White 91 KA8 JDM TII iTrader: (36)	Rear ADDCO sway bar Install DIY Rear ADDCO sway bar Install DIY I am doing this DIY because had I known it was really this simple the bar probably would have sat on my living room floor a few less days. As soon as you have the original removed you will notice the difference in size and weight, though the size is similar it is enough to create quite the difference! Necessary tools -Socket wrench or wrenches with the following sizes 12mm, 14mm -A large wrench (I used 1" because it fit and was readily availabe) Helpful tools -Ramps (creates added space on a dropped car) It was also mentioned that it was an easier job with the suspension in its natural position. -A screwdriver (to line up the holes) Steps 1. Remove the stock sway bar there are a total of 6 bolts I recommend removing the shoulder bolts first (located near the shocks) this way the bar will not hit you or fall while you are removing it 2. Install the new bar. On the installation I did just the opposite. I put the shoulder bolts on last so that I could line everything up before tightening it down. If you do not make longer shoulder bolts right away I suggest locktite to give added comfort that it won't come off. Theres no force on the bolts though so it will suffice short term. Included is a link to Stevierays Shoulder bolt DIY though to be safe. Thanks Stevieray! Link to the shoulder bolt DIY http://acura-legend.com/vbulletin/sh...=Shoulder+bolt 3. enjoy the new stiffness of your rear end! here's some pics to assist in seeing how easy this is. Please excuse how dirty the underside of my car is I promise the inside is clean! The original bar. It has a lot of gunk on it but in the center of the pick is the stock shoulder bolt. It is the same at both sides of the bar. The bolts is not locked in so you will need to lock the larger bolt in place (I used a 1" wrench) while you unscrew the nut with a 14mm socket or wrench. You may be able to just pull the support brace off, if not tap it lightly Then uscrew the support brackets holding the bar in place with a 12mm wrench (only four total all in plain view) Reinstall your new bar (remember your washers I am sure they are provided with a reason) Tighten that bad boy down and enjoy! ivanj's review of the bar (not one from me yet need to get Koni's installed) http://acura-legend.com/vbulletin/sh...ay+bar+install __________________ \/Provider of The Telion Chip click here\/ http://telionsite.com or search Telion Chip 3.5, TII cams,pnp mani & springs,Telion Chip,HID's,H&R's/Koni's,Addco Sway bars,TII calipers,RH C2's,R.J. shifter,DV8 EGR plate,CAI,OBX headers,2.5" exhaust,hi-flow cat,K2 muffler,Stage III clutch,S&D rotors, KVR pads, blackend damper, a CF hood, AFC NEO, 3.5 Aluminum pulley, & Web cams. C&R Racing radiator and more to come.

02-10-07, 10:21 AM	#2 (permalink)
antik Obsessive Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 3,734 Car 1: 98.5 BMW M3 Coupe 5MT Car 2: 95 L Sedan Car 3: 95 6MT Coupe (Dad's) iTrader: (5)	Good DIY. I didn't receive any washers when I got my bar from ADDCO. This is a fairly easy install though from the sound of it, doing it w/o the suspension loaded to it's natural position is much harder - that's how I did it and I had to put my jack under one side of the car and push the wheel up a little in order to get it all to fit. Eventually it all worked though - it was just a pain. Telion: I'd love to see a similar DIY for the front if you plan on doing one! __________________ ~Ben Canterbury Green '95 Auto L Sedan ADDCO \| MLS \| KNUKONCEPTZ \| ALPINE \| ECLIPSE \| JL AUDIO \| BOSTON ACOUSTICS

02-10-07, 11:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
kotetu 33mpg 6spd Coupe Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 3,532 Car 1: 95 LS Coupe 6spd Car 2: 94 L Cpe 6spd - sold Car 3: 98 Prelude - sold iTrader: (13)	bookmarked. Thanks! __________________ Someone stole maracura91's new wheels one day after he bought them. (10/09/2008) This link will search for "Nitto" + "C2" + "Racing Hart" on all of craigslist for the last 24 hours. Click it to help him find his wheels! maracura91's thread Inflation is your friend! I mean really, who doesn't want to own a $100,000 car?

03-15-07, 12:08 AM	#7 (permalink)
Telion Of the Telion Chip Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hopefully In your ECU ;) Posts: 3,994 Car 1: White 91 KA8 5spd W/3.5, TII Cams & Manifold Car 2: White 91 KA8 JDM TII iTrader: (36)	Funny thing about that is that your link (and a thank you) is in the first part of this thread __________________ \/Provider of The Telion Chip click here\/ http://telionsite.com or search Telion Chip 3.5, TII cams,pnp mani & springs,Telion Chip,HID's,H&R's/Koni's,Addco Sway bars,TII calipers,RH C2's,R.J. shifter,DV8 EGR plate,CAI,OBX headers,2.5" exhaust,hi-flow cat,K2 muffler,Stage III clutch,S&D rotors, KVR pads, blackend damper, a CF hood, AFC NEO, 3.5 Aluminum pulley, & Web cams. C&R Racing radiator and more to come.

03-15-07, 08:05 AM	#8 (permalink)
stevieray Swollen Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Franklin, TN Posts: 7,545 Car 1: '95 LS Coupe Car 2: '91 LS Coupe Car 3: '89 Prelude Si iTrader: (13)	That's what I get for staying up too late and not reading the entire thread. __________________ *"King of Kleen"* "Know this. Being able to purchase a Legend and being able to afford a Legend are two separate things. Realize nothing post-purchase is cheap." - LegendGS

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03-12-07, 08:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
Kamrulius Maximus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: New York City / Buffalo Posts: 118 Car 1: 1994 Acura Legend L Sedan Auto (Black) Car 2: 2007 Subaru WRX STI iTrader: (1)	I have a question. Instead of making a whole new shoulder bolt, can I not just use a longer hex bolt and use everything else from old assembly?

03-15-07, 09:47 AM	#9 (permalink)
antik Obsessive Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 3,734 Car 1: 98.5 BMW M3 Coupe 5MT Car 2: 95 L Sedan Car 3: 95 6MT Coupe (Dad's) iTrader: (5)	Just to clarify - I thought the enlongated shoulder bolts were for the original version of the ADDCO bar which wasn't correctly machined on the ends and needed longer bolts. I thought it was an issue that had been resolved by ADDCO by thinning out that part of the bar? That said, I've been running the stock shoulder bolt for months now without problems. It seemed like they fit just fine - there was plenty of room to tighten them down. __________________ ~Ben Canterbury Green '95 Auto L Sedan ADDCO \| MLS \| KNUKONCEPTZ \| ALPINE \| ECLIPSE \| JL AUDIO \| BOSTON ACOUSTICS

03-15-07, 11:43 AM	#11 (permalink)
antik Obsessive Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 3,734 Car 1: 98.5 BMW M3 Coupe 5MT Car 2: 95 L Sedan Car 3: 95 6MT Coupe (Dad's) iTrader: (5)	I thought I read somewhere that it had improved... though, it was still significantly thicker than stock. I'll go back and double check that I'm not compacting the bushing too much and that the nut looks secure but I didn't have problems getting my OEM bolts to work and as I say, they've been on there for several months. __________________ ~Ben Canterbury Green '95 Auto L Sedan ADDCO \| MLS \| KNUKONCEPTZ \| ALPINE \| ECLIPSE \| JL AUDIO \| BOSTON ACOUSTICS

03-15-07, 04:05 PM	#12 (permalink)
Kamrulius Maximus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: New York City / Buffalo Posts: 118 Car 1: 1994 Acura Legend L Sedan Auto (Black) Car 2: 2007 Subaru WRX STI iTrader: (1)	The reason I asked whether I can use a longer bolt or not because, I could not find most of the things (bolts, aluminum rod, etc.) in home depot. I don't know where to find them. I just bought 3/8" hex bolts, nuts, some washers, and lock washers. I'm gonna see how that works. It's getting cold again, so I have to do something about this today (since I have no garage).

03-15-07, 08:01 PM	#13 (permalink)
Kamrulius Maximus Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: New York City / Buffalo Posts: 118 Car 1: 1994 Acura Legend L Sedan Auto (Black) Car 2: 2007 Subaru WRX STI iTrader: (1)	Okay, I've installed the sway bar with original shoulder bolt. I guess addoco hasn't made the end of the bar thinner. Hopefully the current installation will hold for now until it gets a bit warmer. It was pain removing and putting back on the bolts by the muffler. Oh, btw, the ride now is AWESOME! I can't believe only one bar can make so much difference in turning. I'm very impressed.

03-16-07, 01:25 AM	#14 (permalink)
Telion Of the Telion Chip Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hopefully In your ECU ;) Posts: 3,994 Car 1: White 91 KA8 5spd W/3.5, TII Cams & Manifold Car 2: White 91 KA8 JDM TII iTrader: (36)	Sweet glad to hear it . . .But if you thought that was a pain try the front. . . __________________ \/Provider of The Telion Chip click here\/ http://telionsite.com or search Telion Chip 3.5, TII cams,pnp mani & springs,Telion Chip,HID's,H&R's/Koni's,Addco Sway bars,TII calipers,RH C2's,R.J. shifter,DV8 EGR plate,CAI,OBX headers,2.5" exhaust,hi-flow cat,K2 muffler,Stage III clutch,S&D rotors, KVR pads, blackend damper, a CF hood, AFC NEO, 3.5 Aluminum pulley, & Web cams. C&R Racing radiator and more to come.

03-22-07, 12:45 AM	#15 (permalink)
bboarder711 mods: yes PLEASE!!!! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Philly, KOP, State College Posts: 9,374 Car 1: 1995 SE white/silver Car 2: Flexdex Pro 36 Car 3: Nikon D70 iTrader: (4)	any DIY for the front???? __________________ My Mission: -To create the hottest OEM "looking" legend. http://www.legendaryphotos.net <-- Recently updated!!! A-L.com T-shits + Hoodies for sale! <-- Click Thanksgiving Tristate Meet Nov 22 '08

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