VIP Legend

Hey guys. I've been having that knocking noise coming from my front passenger side. Every time I take a right turn, it knocks annoyingly. I'm sure all of you know what I am talking about. I need to replace the CV joint, right? Is that the same thing as an axle? I had my axle replaced on my previous car for like 2 bills (parts & labor). Is it safe to assume that it will be a similar price for my Legend? I understand that all axles are remanufactured. Are they OEM? If I went to a local shop and wanted my CV joint replaced, what would they do? Put in a "new" remanufactured OEM unit? Any and all information about axles/cv joints would be appreciated. I am completely clueless with this stuff. If my CV joint is bad then what about my ball joint, control arms, etc?

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FS:

OEM G1 LEGEND Climate Control Unit

WTB:

OEM '90 Legend Coupe Door Lock Knob (Black)

 

DrDave

When it comes to axles, my money goes to Marty @ Raxles. No questions about it. You are correct in thinking if one thing is bad what else is bad. A thorough inspection will answer that question. There is no sure-fire answer as to what will be worn out along with the axle.

Dave

Muffo

If its your cv joint then it should be limited to that. I have changed a few and there isnt a lot to it

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paulo57509

What do you mean by OEM? As in did the axle come out of a Honda and get rebuilt by an independent rebuilder or did Honda remanufacture the axle?

I don't think it really matters. I don't remember who the rebuilder was, but I have over 92k on my replacements. If they're installed correctly, they should last as long as the originals.

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'87 L-Coupe 5-Speed
Stock; NO Mods
389K Miles - original engine and drivetrain.

pacallen

If you look around you can find some remans w/ lifetime warranties (pretty sure any brand will do) for around $60-$70 each... Labor should run about $100/side.

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SOLD: '87 Auto Sedan (12/31/2003)

pnoye2

I'd personally just get the whole axle assembly replace... and, CV joint is just part of the axle

^^^ Amen to that! hell, I get my axle replacement from the junkyards

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289K+ miles on original drive/power trains

TO90LEGEND

How do you install one incorrectly? If it seats nice in both ends and you put the the nut back on I can't see where you can go wrong. Or do you mean rebuilding the shaft yourself?


P - ^^^^

I would think its hit or miss with the junkyard, I took one from my spare parts car, it looked clean & the boots weren't torn, but sure enough the damn thing clicked right away. So I go the rebuild way as well. What is the expected lifespan of these? I'm guessing I average 60 to 80 thousand miles between replacements.

This is an easy repair in theory for the home mechanic. But you need that big 36 mm Socket and I recommend a gun to remove that. Also you have to get that bottom ball joint off disconnected, which again is easy for someone who has done it a few times. It may challenge someone without any patience, that might try to beat the crap out of it to loosen it.

My fingernails are still a bit dirty from doing mine tonight. Just a note that I had a bit of trouble putting it back in. The C-clip on the newly rebuilt shaft was a bit oversize (it just wouldn't go in), so i had to swap it with the old one and it then clicked in nice. I figured I would mention that in case anyone else had that problem.

pnoye2

^^^ Is this a trick question TO

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289K+ miles on original drive/power trains

TO90LEGEND

I was hoping for it not 2 be....

I should have maybe put the arrows ^^^^^ the other way- The drive-shaft question was for Paulo. The junkyard vs. rebuilt experience was for you.

pnoye2

To be honest with you, I can NOT even recall the last time I've bought a reman drive-shaft (axle)... although I think it was right around the time frame when my eldest son started driving (5 years ago).

As you may have already know I frequent our local junkyards <=I'm cheap like that ...every once in a while, I'll run in to a beat-up G1 and amazingly with lots of good parts.

I recall replacing both front axles (junkyard) ONLY once... just simple economics in my part; $10 junkyard replacement over $80 rebuilt replacement

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289K+ miles on original drive/power trains

mr.booie

haha, i have this same problem. but i discovered that is was not the cv axle or joint but it was the steering rack rubber boot that had been cut in two. they sell universal boots at any parts stores, like 10 bucks.

digger89L

Now that we're discussing axles ..a couple of questions: (1) the same axle assembly fits right (driver) side and left (passenger side) correct? (At least on 89-90 models with automatic trans.) (2) does anyone know a reliable and less expensive source of after-market and or rebuild axles in Canada?

TO90LEGEND

I paid $89.00cdn ea. for my rebuilds last week. Try to find a smaller out of the way no name parts store. They are usually willing to give you a decent price. Or consider some cross border shopping.

My parts car is an Auto 89 L coupe, the 2 assemblies are slightly different. If you go to car-part.com and you put in your search criteria, you will see different part numbers for the various shafts. They did fit on my 90 Stick though. The drivers side shaft goes direct into the transfer case. The pass. shaft goes into a little half shaft supported by a bearing assembly. The Knurling and the way they clip in is slightly different from side to side. Plus make sure if you have ALB the sensor rings are on the shafts!!!

digger89L

Yeah, I thought they were different, too ...however Acura uses the same part number (44010-SD4-921) for both left and right axle assemblies on the 1990 standard and automatic. But they list a different part number for the left and right inboard cv joints ..odd. I'm sure they would have specified if the axles were different ...And, as you mentioned, the half-shaft on the passenger side is a separate component. So ...90 bucks doesn't sound too bad. What's your source??

legend_fan27

im not sure about changing the cv's on legends but on cars that i have when reinstalling and if you need to take off the tie rod. make sure you mark where the tie rod position was just a word of advice