CV Joint Repair - Page 2

pnoye2 · 03-26-08, 12:43 PM

I've done some very extensive comparison over the years on Sedan drive axles and they've work/fit perfectly... mine is a base model so I could interchange the ABS/ALB specific half-shafts.

Coupe models on the other hand I'm not so sure of... I'll do some comparing on my next visit to my local junkyards.

TO90LEGEND · 03-26-08, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digger89L

Yeah, I thought they were different, too ...however Acura uses the same part number (44010-SD4-921) for both left and right axle assemblies on the 1990 standard and automatic. But they list a different part number for the left and right inboard cv joints ..odd. I'm sure they would have specified if the axles were different ...And, as you mentioned, the half-shaft on the passenger side is a separate component. So ...90 bucks doesn't sound too bad. What's your source??

Like I mentioned I go to a small place - Platinium Auto Parts 905-602-9828. I don't know if they will ship out of province ask for Dan or Ed. If you want i know these guys pretty good I could check for u. Remember you need to return the cores for a credit!

And to Legend Fan => You only need to seperate the upper control arm and the lower ball joint to pull out the shaft. Even if you decide you want all the room there to work you can seperate the control arm and pull off the hub assembly complete. As long as you dont spin the control arm (its locked down anyway) you can replace it to where it was exactly before.

legend_fan27 · 03-31-08, 09:52 AM

ahhh ic. like i said never done one on a legend. but on one of our practice cars in the shop we did

pacallen · 04-02-08, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TO90LEGEND

And to Legend Fan => You only need to seperate the upper control arm and the lower ball joint to pull out the shaft. Even if you decide you want all the room there to work you can seperate the control arm and pull off the hub assembly complete. As long as you dont spin the control arm (its locked down anyway) you can replace it to where it was exactly before.

I'm not 100% sure (it's been a while as my remans are still going strong after 4 years), but I think you can get away with just popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle, banging the axle out, swinging the knuckle out, and removing the axle.

TO90LEGEND · 04-03-08, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pacallen

I'm not 100% sure (it's been a while as my remans are still going strong after 4 years), but I think you can get away with just popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle, banging the axle out, swinging the knuckle out, and removing the axle.

I replaced them the last two thursdays just gone by. The upper control arm pops out very easily I find it much easier to do the "swinging" with that off. Maybe you can pry things enough when you just disconnect the lower ball joint, I just didn't try. I like space when i work, and thats maybe an extra 5 minutes to release the control arm tops? You also have to be careful of the brake line and ABS sensor cable there when yanking on things around there.

pnoye2 · 04-03-08, 04:04 PM

There are several ways in removing the front axle(s)... as long as you know what you're doing, you should be just fine.

Seperating the tie-rod ends works great as well... my personal preference

03-26-08, 12:43 PM	#16 (permalink)
pnoye2 Wowoweeee Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Laguna Hills, California Posts: 3,373 Car 1: '89 Sedan w/Auto (base model) iTrader: (0)	I've done some very extensive comparison over the years on Sedan drive axles and they've work/fit perfectly... mine is a base model so I could interchange the ABS/ALB specific half-shafts. Coupe models on the other hand I'm not so sure of... I'll do some comparing on my next visit to my local junkyards. __________________ 293K+ miles; original power/drive trains

04-03-08, 04:04 PM	#21 (permalink)
pnoye2 Wowoweeee Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Laguna Hills, California Posts: 3,373 Car 1: '89 Sedan w/Auto (base model) iTrader: (0)	There are several ways in removing the front axle(s)... as long as you know what you're doing, you should be just fine. Seperating the tie-rod ends works great as well... my personal preference __________________ 293K+ miles; original power/drive trains

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03-31-08, 09:52 AM	#18 (permalink)
legend_fan27 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: SD Posts: 272 Car 1: 95 achieva Car 2: 87 legend(junkyard) iTrader: (0)	ahhh ic. like i said never done one on a legend. but on one of our practice cars in the shop we did

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