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#1 (permalink) |
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Experience the Legend!
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Jacinto, CA
Posts: 175
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DIY Side cover gaskets/ Broken bolt removal
Thanks Mark for your help in producing this DIY!
Disclaimer: A-L.com or myself are not responsible for any loss or damages caused by anyone attempting to perform the service described herein. Allow the engine to cool off for awhile it will make for a more comfortable experience. Tools needed 10mm socket and ¼ driver ratchet, gasket maker. Small screwdriver Rear side valve cover Step one- pop out the three spark plug wires from the rear half of the engine just where they meet the spark plugs Also gently slid off the vacuum canister and wedge it out of the way taking care not to break or damage any of the vacuum lines. ![]() Then disconnect the o2 sensor and gently bend the connector bracket that it went into back a little ways, it doesn’t need to be to far just enough so that way you can gain easy access to the bottom passenger side bolt. Step two- Using the 10mm socket and ¼ ratchet begin to remove the eight bolts that hold the side cover on. Once they are off use a small screw driver to gently pry off the valve cover. ![]() Step three-once the cover is off remove the old gasket by gently prying it out of the recess of the valve cover. Once removed apply just a few drops of RTV gasket maker into the groves especially along the top side of the cover. This is not to make a seal but to hold the gasket in place while you move the cover into position, so as the gasket doesn’t flop out. So don’t worry about coating all the way around just in area’s that tend to flop out. Step four- once the gasket is held in place you can begin to reinstall the valve cover. First note that on the valve cover the word top is engraved on the cover this end must be facing up. Once in position begin to screw in the bolts with your hand, starting with the top corners just so that way it holds it in place. Once all the bolts are back on begin snugging them in with the ratchet and socket *****note these bolts are very fragile and it doesn’t take much to snap one, how tight the bolt is does not make the seal work any better so to avoid any damage to your car be sure you’re snugging the bolts just enough to compress the o-ring gasket and not putting a lot of pressure while you tighten them****** Step 5 reconnect the o2 sensor and put the vacuum canister backing its original location Front side valve cover Step one- use the 10 mm socket and ratchet to remove the eight bolts that hold the cover to the head. Once removed take the small screw driver and gently pry the side valve cover off. Step 2 – once the cover is removed use the small screw driver to pry the old gasket out. After the old gasket is removed apply the gasket maker to the top side and other areas that the gasket tends to pop out of. Step 3 – be sure that you have the right side up and then begin to reinstall the 8 bolts that hold valve cover on. Make sure you reconnect the ground on to the top passenger side bolt. After the bolts are in use the 10 mm socket and ratchet to snug the bolts on. *****note these bolts are very fragile and it doesn’t take much to snap one, how tight the bolt is does not make the seal work any better so to avoid any damage to your car be sure you’re snugging the bolts just enough to compress the o-ring gasket and not putting a lot of pressure while you tighten them****** Now say one of your bolts does snap off like one of mine did here are some procedures to fix that as well. First thing your going to have to do is to take off the valve cover and access the damage. If your snapped bolt looks like this. ![]() Then all that is needed is a small pair of side cutters and just gently unscrew the remnants of the bolt. Take one of your old bolts to a hardware store and buy a new bolt that matches your old one. The proper size bolt is 6mm-1.0 x 20mm long. Or just go to your local junkyard and snag a few off another G1 legend. ![]() Now if your snapped bolt is a little more serious and you can’t get to it you’ll need: -self striking center punch -#30 drill bit chucked in a 90 degree die grinder or small 90 degree drill motor ![]() -#2 screw extractor in a small T-handle ![]() -6mm x 1.0 tap in a small T-handle ![]() First you need to use the self striking center punch to create a center for the drill bit. ![]() Second, use the die grinder and #30 drill to make a hole through the center of the broken bolt. Drill approximately ½ inch deep into the bolt. ![]() Third, use the #2 extractor to carefully remove the broken bolt. Fourth, Chase the threads in the hole with the 6mm x 1.0 tap. Be careful not to cross-thread the tap in the hole. (IT IS A CUTTING TOOL AND IF CROSS-THREADED WILL RUIN THE BOLT HOLE REQUIRING A THREAD REPAIR INSERT TO BE INSTALLED!) ![]() Fifth, reinstall your side cover and you’re done! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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putting the ass in class
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: casa grande, az
Posts: 3,601
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awesome! thanks again for all the help tony.
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sig by doubleglow the sigwhisperer ƃuıʇsod ǝɹoɟǝq ɥɔɹɐǝs plnoɥs sɹǝsn ʍǝu join the acura legend flickr group visit my flickr page |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Nice "save your arse" DIY.
When drilling the hole for the extractor, using a left-hand drill bit will usually turn the broken piece out on its own saving you a bit (no pun intended) of time. If not, you still needed the hole anyway. I keep a quantity of different sized LH bits in the tool box just in case. I don't run taps thru threaded holes unless the replacement bolt won't thread into the hole or I know for sure that the threads are damaged. IMO, I think it's best to minimize removing material from existing threaded holes.
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'87 L-Coupe 5-Speed Stock; NO Mods 393K Miles - original engine and drivetrain. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Wowoweeee
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laguna Hills, California
Posts: 3,373
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Quote:
![]() Now, I just do it as a hobby... I've pass the torch to my eldest son; so does speak!
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293K+ miles; original power/drive trains |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 2,207
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Quote:
Thanks dad! we also have a gold plated snap on wrench set somewhere. dad got it for being the top tech in california back in the early 90's. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Ridin' Stock son
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Keizer Oregon
Posts: 187
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when should one replace side valve cover gaskets?
is it less, more, or the same frequency as the top valve cover gaskets? thanks
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My 87 Legend L 2.5 V6 -Prelude wheel- -EL reverse gauges- -reinforced hood struts- -halogen headlights- -Cold Cathode trunk lights- Dual HU- -Infiniti components up front- -Pyramid component rear- -12" Pioneer in bandpass box- -Acura caliper grille emblem- |
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#12 (permalink) |
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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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Only replace it when you see oil leak.
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\18" Limited 341 Chrome Rims/\Matador Red Paint/\Weapon R - Secret Weapon Intake/\LED Bright White Dash Lights/Floor/\Kenwood KDC-X590 Excelon Mp3 Deck/\Ford Taurus Coin/Cup Holder/\2 12" Kickers/\1200 Watt Sony XM-2200GTX 2-Channel Xplod Amp/\2 Rockford Fosgate Capacitors/\Power Acoustic Capacitor/\Clear Rear Turn Signal/\Reverse Glow Gauges/\Swapped 88' Headlights to 89'-90'/\JDM Rear Chrome Trim/\Stromung Muffler/ Soon To Come: Rebuild Motor and 5-MT Swap
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