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Old 03-26-04, 07:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY Water Pump Replacement

This is a complete guide to installing a water pump written by me, Justin Warner

Remove the 2 nuts and bolts holding the belt covers on, remove the covers.
Then take off the LARGE bolt on the steering pump, removing it, then taking the steering pumps belt off. It may be necessary to loosen the nut under the pump that is horizontally put in there, AKA the locking bolt in order to get the belt off of the steering pump. Remove the steering pump, then start on the ALTERNATOR OR, Goto Section FILL IN HERE to jack the engine up first, making it easier to remove the alternator.. Loosen the big bolt on the pivot part of the alternator, or simply remove it. Then start loosening the locking bolt so the alternator can be moved so the belt can be loosened. Remove the belt, then taking out the 2 bolts (FILL IN HERE1 bolt and the pivot bolt). Remove the alternator then continue to the next step.
Remove the 2 bolts that are connected to the motor mount, then pull the top mount part backwards to clear it. Then jack the CAR up,(not the engine) so the tire is off the ground and remove the tire., making sure that its safe to work under by using a jack stand. Remove the tire.
Next, remove the lower cover out of the way by removing about 3 of the bolts that hold the plastic cover in place. Then remove the pulley on the crankshaft by using a pulley puller (If you donít have one, JUST GO BUY ONE! Definitely worth it, NAPA sells them) First, you have to loosen the bolt on the crankshaft. I recommend putting a cloth around the pulley and use a chain wrench to hold the crankshaft still while taking the bolt off. But I didnít have a chain wrench, so what I did was put a large piece of cloth between the A/C compressor belt and the pulley, then tried loosening the bolt while the crankshaft just spun, but the cloth got caught between the pulley and the belt, which stopped it from moving, thus letting the bolt come off. If you do that, make sure its really crappy cloth, that way it can be ripped and cut away easily. You can turn the bolt on the tensioning bolt for the A/C condenser COUNTERCLOCKWISE (loosening the bolt) so the belt gets loosened (FIRST YOU MUST LOOSEN THE BOLT ON THE FRONT OF THE TENSIONER IN ORDER FOR IT TO MOVE). Then when all the belts are off and the bolt on the crankshaft is loosened, loosen the crankshaft bolt so its only like 3 turns in, then, with the engine jack lowered, use the pulley puller and put the puller bolt on the crankshaft bolt head. Keep tightening the puller until the pulley comes off enough to pull it off by hand.
Put a jack under the oil pan, MAKING SURE THAT YOU USE A LARGE BLOCK OF WOOD BETWEEN THE JACK AND THE OIL PAN TO PROTECT IT. Start jacking the ENGINE up until it seems to not want to go anymore, but donít force it beyond its ability.
Then with the engine jacked up, start removing the bolts on the timing belt cover. I would start with the 5 on the front part of the timing belt cover (first one towards front top, then below that holding the oil stick assembly, then way below that, then the last one is on the face of the cover. After those bolts are removed, just remove the wires on the cover so theyíre out of your way for right now. Then pull the front timing cover off. Next I would start with the back one, removing all 3 bolts on it,( One on top part, 2nd way below that one, then the last one is on the face of it) then remove the cover. Now, start removing the bolts on the main timing cover, but donít remove the big one in the center thatís 14 MM(That is actually the bolt holding the timing belt tensioner in place). There are 8 bolts on the main timing cover(First two being under the alternator and steering pump holder, then one is on the far left, then 2 on the upper face part, then one on the far right, then you may have to lower the engine, and remove the 2 bolts on the bottom part of the cover. Pull the cover away, noting that you wont be able to totally remove it from the engine compartment.
With the cover back, you now have access to the timing belt and water pump. What I would do first, before taking the timing belt off, would be to put the CRANKSHAFT BOLT into the crankshaft, WITHOUT THE PULLEY ON! Then turn the bolt, until the timing marks are lined up (I would look at the mark on the front camshaft sprocket. The mark will be a big metal line engraved on the sprocket, you need to line this up with the line that is on the back of the timing cover(the part that is where the bolts from the front timing cover bolts to) ) Then, after the timing marks are lined up, you can jerk the bolt thatís in the crankshaft a few times, to get it to come out, you may need to loosen the bolt, which may throw the timing off, then slowly turn the crankshaft to time it again, then jerk the bolt loose.
Now, jack the engine back up, and take some pliers and remove the spring that is connected from the tensioner to the stub on the water pump Remove the bolt that is holding the tension still so the tensioner can be removed. Pry the belt off from the water pump, which is the stub thing in the top middle where the belt goes UNDER it. Now, do what you can to remove the timing belt completely, removing it from the engine bay.
Now start removing all of the bolts that are holding the water pump in. There are 7 small 10 mm bolts and 2 12mm. Take the water pump out noting that some coolant will run out. Take the new water pump, put in the seal, then use liquid sealer and put it all over the seal area to make sure it stays tight, you donít want this to leak after you put it in like it did to me. Put the water pump back onto the engine. You may have difficulty of it going on right, so just keep tinkering with it until you get all the bolt holes lined up, then start putting some of the bolts in by hand. When all bolts are in, start tightening them one by one, until all are tight. Make sure you do not over tighten because the water pump may warp. After the water pump is secured, Check everything to make sure it is all still timed correctly. The back camshaft sprocketís timing mark is a pink dot thing, line it up with the mark in the back of the timing case. You can turn the sprocket by putting a wrench onto one of the bolts that hold the sprocket on, and force it to turn which will turn the camshaft sprocket. Same for the front. For the crankshaft, line the stub on the crankshaft which holds the pulley on straight up.
Then put the tensioner back on. The bottom part slides onto a short stop which is below the water pump. Put the timing belt on, starting with the crankshaft sprocket, then going to the front camshaft, making sure the belt is tight between the 2. Then put the belt over the tensioner, then pulling the belt up so its about to be put on the back camshaft. But first, put the belt under the water pump, then put it onto the back camshaft. All the belt should be on now. Put the tensionerís bolt into place and turn the engine 6 times with the crankshaft bolt. If nothing hits, then you have successfully timed the engine. Now put the bottom timing cover back on and put the crankshaft pulley back on.
You have successfully installed the water pump as well, so start putting all of the engine back together in opposite order of disassembly.

BTW, the first time i did this, with no clue and with no reference, it took me 3 weeks, the 2nd time after i didnt put the gasket in right and it got pinched, letting it leak, it took me 7 hours total
Have Fun

Last edited by lycan; 03-29-04 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 03-26-04, 10:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Wow that's very indepth... Unfortunatly I just had it done at the dealer or I would have to try this. Thanks for writing it as I'm sure it will help the hardcore DIYers out there.

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Old 03-26-04, 10:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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BTW, if anyone finds any mistakes, typos or directions, please tell me and ill have them corrected!
Thanks everyone
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Old 06-02-04, 05:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm thinking of trying this myself. If there is any additional info or tips that you thought of since originally writing this, please let me know.

Also, can anyone tell me where I can get the best price on an oem timing belt and waterpump? What else to I need? New tensioners or something??

Thanks in advance,
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Old 06-03-04, 05:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I like for my OEM parts.
89 White Coupe, 95 White/Silver SE
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Old 06-03-04, 10:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks.....just had mine done at the dealer along with the oil pump. Good DIY.

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Old 06-05-06, 12:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sticky this one?
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Old 04-07-10, 06:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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nice job on the water pump...some pix would be nice...they would really help a dummy like me
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Old 04-07-10, 07:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Wow, bumped a really old thread. Plus this is for a G1 lol.

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Old 03-14-12, 07:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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old thread but extremely helpful. i replaced my timing belt and water pump in about 4 hours following these instructions. thanks a million!!!
i was able to get the shroud out all the way, it takes some finesse, but it comes out. but i messed up and didnt have it exactly at TDC when i took the belt off. Good thing i took a sharpie and marked the cam gear, belt and block so i was able to count the teeth on the new belt and get everything lined up again.
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Old 06-03-16, 01:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm having issue removing the right cover there's a bolt behind the camshaft

I'm trying to remove the cover so I can get access to the last bolt of the water pump
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