MrSmith

I started having this turning over but no start problem.

I checked the distributor and rotor. recent check and replace.
I checked the Plugs & Wires.
I checked the Distributor. ( I removed the wire from the distributor and turned the key to see If I got any fire). I got alittle fire sparks.
I then checked my fuel Pump by disconnecting the line in from the filter then turning the key. No fuel came out. Is that a way to check it?? Thats the only way I know. I dont hear any humming from the pump (then again I've never heard any from this car) and I didnt see any fuel coming from the lines.

Does anyone have an Idea before I get another fuel pump.???

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awelliott

When you turn the ignition key to "on" (not start), do you hear the main relay click? It is what sends power to the pump - if it fails, then you'll also have a no-fuel condition.....

MrSmith

My smarts only reach so far. Unfortunately. Im un sure were the main relay is and were I should be listening for the click to come from.

Ive read were people spoke on it. Is it the small black box under the steering colum. inside the panel??

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awelliott

It's under the dash to the left of the steering column, probably right about knee level. I'm sure that if you did a forum search under "main relay", you'd find threads that are complete with pictures. It seems that there are slight variations in how they're mounted, but all that I've seen are held by a bracket with a single 10mm bolt. Sometimes that bolt is a bear to get to, and other times it isn't bad. Hopefully yours will be one of the latter. Good luck....

MrSmith

Thank you. Ive seen that box a few times and never asked it anything. I guess Ill go and have a talk with it. see if its doing ok. Those boxes cost alot??

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awelliott

I think they can be had for around 40 or 50 bucks at parts houses - not sure what the dealer charges. You might try fixing yours - often it's just a matter of the solder joints going bad over time. BTW, here's a thread that shows some pictures:

who needs to know main relay location

And here's a site that explains the repair:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

Catch you later...

TO90LEGEND

Our pump is very quiet. Although a rolled up newspaper or a tube stuck in the filler hole will help you hear it and fiter out some of the surrounding noises. (Like buses and planes and passing cars)

sixtre63

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, I REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP WHICH HELPED BUT I STILL HAD SOME ISSUES. THEN SOMEONE TOLD ME TO REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP MAIN RELAY SO I DID AND I HAVNT HAD ANY PROBLEMS SINCE.

MrSmith

Ok, well I removed the main relay. checked it out. didnt look bad (from what I can see) But that doesnt make since because how do I look to see if its bad. Didnt look to have any damages welds (solderings) so I re-enstalled it. rechecked the fuel pump for noise and fuel coming from filter. still none. Im thinking to go to a junk yard tomorrow for Pump. I dont have 130.00 that Autozone wants.

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awelliott

That's not a bad idea - the pumps are pretty robust and don't fail often.

BTW, did you hear the main relay click when you turned the ignition to the "on" position? If it clicked and you're getting no fuel and no noise from your pump, then you can be pretty sure it is the pump.

l4zy415

r u sure u have gas in the tank? just wondering lol

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pnoye2

It could also be just the sending unit.

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294K+ miles; original power/drive trains

Bumbi

You can use a funnel and stick it down the filler neck while someone is turning the key to the on position to see if you can hear the pump turning on or not. Next get a rubber mallet and gently tap on the bottom of the fuel tank, if you can get the pump to turn on for a second its most likely your fuel pump. If those don't work find your self a digital multi meter and get access to your fuel pump main relay, first test voltage positive wire from the DMM on the battery + wire(Yellow with a blue or black tracer) before the relay and negative on a good ground (chassis or battery Neg termal best) with the key in the on position then test voltage after the relay both of those should be 12volts or more. Next check your current draw (Amperage) of the fuel pump circuit, get your DMM and attach it in series with your fuel pump curcuit positive on your battery + side(Yellow with a blue or black tracer) of the main relay and negative on the wire going to your fuel pump(Black or blue with a yellow tracer) with key in on position, should be anywhere from 4 to 8 amps. If higher check fuel filter first, if too low check the ground to the pump for excessive resistance should be no more than .3 ohms of resistance remember to do this with a dead circuit(No power running threw the circuit.

Give me an update with your results

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MrSmith

The Funny thing is. I drove the car to get the emissions test. Afterwards drove to the gas station filled it up. drove home and parked it in the garage. then drove the Cadillac. I then desided to part the Cadillac, but when I got ready to move the Acura. All it did was turn over. the next morning. I went out and it started. I let it run for about 15 minutes then shut it off. (had to head to school, didnt want to chance it, so the Cadillac it is) Then a few days after that. (around 9-15-2007) I figured Id Drive the Acura. and it just turns over. thats leads us to were we are now.

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