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| First Generation Legend (1986-1990)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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G1: Engine Grounding Wires Install
Hey guys,
Decided to make my own ground wires as everywhere I looked they wanted 50 bucks or more for some cable and ring terminals. I made my own out of 6 gauge black welding cable. It's a 5 cable set, but I can add more later if I find it necessary. My grounding path was from negative terminal > distributor > front head cylinder cover > rear fuel rail > rear head cylinder cover > firewall. Cost was as follows: 10' 6 awg cable - 8$ 10 6 awg ring terminals - 3$ pack of shrink tube - 1$ Cable lengths in order of installation were 26” > 23” > 25.5” > 14” > 8” The cable from the distributor to front cover was a little too long. I actually haven't driven since I installed it last night, but I will post once I have it tested out. I really don't expect much from this because it seems like anywhere you look there are conflicting reports of performance and stability gains. I figured if I could do it myself it would at least be worth the 12 bucks and experience gained. Here are 4 of the 5 cables ![]() Overview of battery to distributor to head cover (its the black cable coming out past the sparkplug wires) ![]() This is the distributor connection ![]() Front head cylinder cover connection w/ stock ground wire shown ![]() Trip from front head cover to rear fuel rail ![]() Fuel rail connection ![]() Rear engine connection to firewall ![]() As always…let me know what you guys think and feel free to point out anything that will blow up my car. Later
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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp "My other love is a Ford Bronco" |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A Nut
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Quote:
it makes for a better ground.. i plan on doing what you did too.. grounding kits on ebay are rediculous better grounds are supposed to mean better responsiveness (from electrical components in the engine), and supposedly a tad bit more power (and gas mileage), etc. run a search, there is a lotta info on the benefits (it wont do wonders though of course)
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old school |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the comments guys. For those wondering about grounding wires...I found this site using them on a Volvo.Click Here One thing I didn't do that they did was ground the tranny. Mine is a manual so I can't imagine what sort of gains I would get from that...maybe I'll add one later for kicks.
After driving to and from work a few times I can say the car feels smoother, especially in the upper RPMs. It also pulls a little harder on the freeway, but this could be one of those great placebo effects. Either way it was worth the effort. I'm going to change my distributor cap and rotor soon so I'm sure that will help out too. If you try this and have any questions...feel free.
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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp "My other love is a Ford Bronco" |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Just an update...after changing out wires, cap, rotor, plugs and adding this grounding system...The car feels great. It responds better than ever and with recent brake rotor/pad, P/S, coolant and tranny fluid changes I am very happy with how things have turned out with this car. There are still some minor details to fix, but...it's a keeper
. Later, body
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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp "My other love is a Ford Bronco" |
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#7 (permalink) |
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InksBeMe
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: TORONTO, CANADA
Posts: 2,043
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I'd be more inclined to get some emery paper and something called contact enhancer from an electronics store. ( Contact enhancer seals the contact between conducting metals and prevents corrosion). Undo the connection points. Clean up the contact points with the emery, apply the contact enhancer and reattach. Nice work though especially for $12.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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thats weird. i can only find 2 ground s in my bay. thats is the neg battery gorund and the engine- front frame ground. thats it, although i believe the tranny ground is there. whats with this? should my car even run? i guess i need this project too, eh?
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#10 (permalink) |
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aka desired_speeds
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The Hella Part of Cali
Posts: 7,621
Car 1: 91 Legend LS - soon to be manual Car 2: 91 Legend L - parts Car 3: 96 Honda Saber 32v iTrader: (2)
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i really want to do this now, please make a DIY, please, thenx!
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. k e n Parting out a 91 L 5-speed, let me know if you need any parts besides engine and 5-speed parts. The car is Rosewood brown with type E cloth interior. |
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#12 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
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Thanks for the comments!
Quote:
Quote:
1)Get your materials (~10 feet 4-8 Ga wire, ring terminals of matching gauge, shrink tube and solder - if desired) 2)cut your wires to lengths shown above (note that the distributor to front head wire was a little too long for me (probably 2-3inches slack) 3)strip the wire ends 4)put your shrink tube on before crimping the terminals 5)crimp the terminals and solder for better connection 6)heat up the shrink tubing 7)route and attach the wires to the various points shown above Make sure that your cables produce a grounding "path"...a high efficiency route directly to the battery negative terminal. You can also add other wires here and there for kicks to see if you get any more stability gains. There could be a far better route than what I have described here so feel free to experiment. If you are unsure of a cable length...measure it. Hope it helps. Later
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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp "My other love is a Ford Bronco" |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 26
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OK OK, its got to be on every ones mind, but how did you get your engin so clean. i mean i have a clean engin but it palse in comparison to yours, what did you use? and i will get pice of my car posted somwere, no mods yet- but they are on there way, trying to think up a Cold air system that wont suck water.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp "My other love is a Ford Bronco" |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 26
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I usualy Power wash my Bay about 1 a mounth " about every other wash, or every time i have to work on it and after every time lol i use super clean, and it is nice nad clean but not as nice as yours, unfortunatly mine spent some of its life in NY and has rust on the under-carage, i am going to get after that this weekend, navel jelly and new under coating.
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