body9599

Hey guys,

Decided to make my own ground wires as everywhere I looked they wanted 50 bucks or more for some cable and ring terminals. I made my own out of 6 gauge black welding cable. It's a 5 cable set, but I can add more later if I find it necessary. My grounding path was from negative terminal > distributor > front head cylinder cover > rear fuel rail > rear head cylinder cover > firewall. Cost was as follows:

10' 6 awg cable - 8$
10 6 awg ring terminals - 3$
pack of shrink tube - 1$

Cable lengths in order of installation were 26” > 23” > 25.5” > 14” > 8”
The cable from the distributor to front cover was a little too long.

I actually haven't driven since I installed it last night, but I will post once I have it tested out. I really don't expect much from this because it seems like anywhere you look there are conflicting reports of performance and stability gains. I figured if I could do it myself it would at least be worth the 12 bucks and experience gained.

Here are 4 of the 5 cables



Overview of battery to distributor to head cover (its the black cable coming out past the sparkplug wires)



This is the distributor connection



Front head cylinder cover connection w/ stock ground wire shown



Trip from front head cover to rear fuel rail



Fuel rail connection



Rear engine connection to firewall



As always…let me know what you guys think and feel free to point out anything that will blow up my car. Later

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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

 

acc-unit

looks like a clean install , and a damn clean engine, im very jealous .

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1990 Legend sedan - RIP
1995 6 spd coupe

MrSmith

I like it, looks very well done. Dealer installed even.

But call me stupid if you will for the question. What are they for? Is it for you radio of something??

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z00m

it makes for a better ground.. i plan on doing what you did too.. grounding kits on ebay are rediculous

better grounds are supposed to mean better responsiveness (from electrical components in the engine), and supposedly a tad bit more power (and gas mileage), etc.

run a search, there is a lotta info on the benefits (it wont do wonders though of course)

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old school

body9599

Thanks for the comments guys. For those wondering about grounding wires...I found this site using them on a Volvo.Click Here One thing I didn't do that they did was ground the tranny. Mine is a manual so I can't imagine what sort of gains I would get from that...maybe I'll add one later for kicks.

After driving to and from work a few times I can say the car feels smoother, especially in the upper RPMs. It also pulls a little harder on the freeway, but this could be one of those great placebo effects. Either way it was worth the effort. I'm going to change my distributor cap and rotor soon so I'm sure that will help out too. If you try this and have any questions...feel free.

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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

body9599

Just an update...after changing out wires, cap, rotor, plugs and adding this grounding system...The car feels great. It responds better than ever and with recent brake rotor/pad, P/S, coolant and tranny fluid changes I am very happy with how things have turned out with this car. There are still some minor details to fix, but...it's a keeper .

Later,

body

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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

GREYLEGEND

I'd be more inclined to get some emery paper and something called contact enhancer from an electronics store. ( Contact enhancer seals the contact between conducting metals and prevents corrosion). Undo the connection points. Clean up the contact points with the emery, apply the contact enhancer and reattach. Nice work though especially for $12.

rychas1

thats weird. i can only find 2 ground s in my bay. thats is the neg battery gorund and the engine- front frame ground. thats it, although i believe the tranny ground is there. whats with this? should my car even run? i guess i need this project too, eh?

aminus21

I stumbled up on this thread, and Id like to say NICE WORK!!
Where can I get the supplies for this? And is this the same stuff that the stock grounding wires are made of?

Ken

i really want to do this now, please make a DIY, please, thenx!

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. k e n

Parting out a 91 L 5-speed, let me know if you need any parts besides engine and 5-speed parts. The car is Rosewood brown with type E cloth interior.

jessie64

You've got to have the CLEANEST engine I've ever seen. It looks great! Great job on the install and thanks for the pics. I have a feeling, it may prove to be quite helpful.

body9599

Thanks for the comments!

You can get the supplies for this at an electrical parts store or possibly a hardware store. For the most part it is the same material as the stock grounds in that I used copper wire. You can use colored wire if you want to dress up the engine bay.

Most of the pics above should explain the procedure...the only thing not explained was how to strip the wires, crimp the ring terminals on, and solder/shrink tube the ends (optional). If you need help with this let me know and I'll see what I can do.

1)Get your materials (~10 feet 4-8 Ga wire, ring terminals of matching gauge, shrink tube and solder - if desired)
2)cut your wires to lengths shown above (note that the distributor to front head wire was a little too long for me (probably 2-3inches slack)
3)strip the wire ends
4)put your shrink tube on before crimping the terminals
5)crimp the terminals and solder for better connection
6)heat up the shrink tubing
7)route and attach the wires to the various points shown above

Make sure that your cables produce a grounding "path"...a high efficiency route directly to the battery negative terminal. You can also add other wires here and there for kicks to see if you get any more stability gains. There could be a far better route than what I have described here so feel free to experiment. If you are unsure of a cable length...measure it.

Hope it helps.

Later

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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

Mennouth

OK OK, its got to be on every ones mind, but how did you get your engin so clean. i mean i have a clean engin but it palse in comparison to yours, what did you use? and i will get pice of my car posted somwere, no mods yet- but they are on there way, trying to think up a Cold air system that wont suck water.

body9599

Well...I wish i could take a lot of credit for keeping it clean, but that was probably the previous owners doing. I bought it almost 1 year ago and have just tried to keep it as clean as it was. Usually every other wash I'll take a rag and clean the engine bay as best I can...there are a lot of places where my hands won't fit though. I think sleeperlegend was going to steam clean his bay...I want to see what that does for him. Thanks for the comment.

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1990 LS coupe - 5 speed - 160,000 miles
ram CAI - grounding wires - B&M FPR and gauge
D/S rotors - ceramic pads - SS brake lines - driving lights
alpine HU - infinity components - profile 4ch amp
"My other love is a Ford Bronco"

Mennouth

I usualy Power wash my Bay about 1 a mounth " about every other wash, or every time i have to work on it and after every time lol i use super clean, and it is nice nad clean but not as nice as yours, unfortunatly mine spent some of its life in NY and has rust on the under-carage, i am going to get after that this weekend, navel jelly and new under coating.