sciachir

I know this post is old, but in looking on Ebay, I found this grounding kit. Price seemed extremely reasonable:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33692

 

KAHruzer

You all may be interested in my finding last evening as I worked on my car.

I decided to replace the negative ground cable on the battery. I've been having some weird electrical and charging system problems of late. Subtle issues for the most part, but lately the battery has been going dead far too often (I don't drive much and it does tend to run down if left for many days at a time between drives).

I bought one of those little $6 testers at O'Reilly's which plugs into the cigarette lighter plug. It works great, as far as I can tell. But, it was showing me that when I have both the headlights and the A/C running, the alternator isn't carrying the load, so it drains the battery.

IAC, the alternator and battery are both relatively new. So, I wondered about my cables. I did notice the battery ground cable was developing corrosion at an extreme rate. I'd clean it up and a couple of weeks later it was all corroded again. That turned out to be a loose connection. The nut there was stripped and wasn't getting tight enough. Anyway, decdied to replace the entire cable.

That's when I discovered a couple of things of interest.
First, there's two points of attachment for the far end of the battery negative cable. The first is about midway down the cable with a copper plate with a bolt hole through which bolts to the frame right below the battery. The second is at the end of the cable where it attaches to an engine block bracket just above the starter.

In my case, both connections were corroded, the middle one was far worse than the end one. Bad enough that I suspect a circuit would have a hard time.

Once replaced, the car performed way much better than it had in awhile. And, the charging system now was acting more normal. I may still have a weak alternator since it's been working so hard trying to charge.

Guess it's a little too much to expect a nearly 20 year old car to not require this kind of maintenance. I'm going to have to check the positive cable now, too.

I also spotted another ground cable which runs from the frame around the front of the engine compartment, just behind the passenger side hood latch mechanism which runs about 12" to a bolt on the top left of the side engine cover, just below the valve cover. I'll be checking and cleaning those contact points as well.

Anyway, thought some might find this of value. It does take a good ground to complete any/all circuits in the car. A sluggish main ground like that would definitely have an impact on the overall system.

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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

pnoye2

KAHruzer, you mentioned cleaning the negative terminal post then had corroded in 2weeks time... could be a sign of leakage from the bottom of your terminal post!

Also, fast way of cleaning corroded battery cables; hot water and baking soda...

KAHruzer

Sure. But, I was viewing it as excessive charging due to poor connection. The system overworking itself. Coca-Cola works for cleaning, too.

The middle connection is one which cannot be accessed without removal of the battery tray, however.

I'll have to continue to watch it for awhile. It could be the system has so overworked itself that it has prematurely aged itself to death.

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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

sleeprlegendcp

clean the connections and apply Lithium greas all around any exposed metal and between the contacts. I even do the bolt! I have used this stuff in everything from flickering tail lights to outdoor electrical sockets. It is a special grease that prevents corosion because it blocks out air and water, but it does not hinder the electrical currnet at all. I have never had a corosion issue on my G1 and I have not even done this yet. I am still steam cleaning the engine, underside, and 3 wheels and wheel wells. I would be looking for something causing the corosion.
Later!
Lee

Added: Advance Auto, and I believe Autozone, will test your battery and alternator for free. I recomend going some time when they are not too busy.

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National Acura Legend Meet 2008 - 4th of July - Chattanooga, TN - Click Here!

2.7legend

i got my alternatory from auto zone.
and ever since i had it, it would charge 12v no less than that.
this in turned when i turned off my car and and the little fan whould turn on and run for 1/2 an hour.

which killed the battery.
i checked the level which was LOW.
then the other day i noticed all of this "carbon " on the bolt sparyed some wd...and the screw broke.
then i noticed the alt came which it's own screw, which was lower.
so i put it on and now she's charging at 14v and maybe the same with the lights on and stuff.

KAHruzer

When I replaced the battery and alternator last year, I went around and around with O'Reillys on their battery and alternator testing. I had my usual mechanic change the alternator and bought a battery from O'Riellys. Three batteries and two alternators later, I finnally got it fixed. The first battery had an internal short of some kind which did not detect via normal testing (i.e. it tested 'good'). It ended up burning up the brand new alternator in three days. My mechanic replaced it on warrantee, but insisted I replace the battery, which was new. Long story, short version, I p.o.'d the guy at O'Reillys but ended up with a good battery.

My mechanic demonstrated to me that when a battery/alternate 'set' is working properly, one can palm the alternator and it not be too hot. Not cool, in fact pretty hot, but not too hot to hold your palm there for a few seconds. If it is, it's overworking trying to charge at battery with an internal short of that nature.

I have a big tube op Lithium grease which I've been using liberally on all my connections. I had thought I'd take the mud flaps and wheel well covers off and grease the joiints there so as to not get that trademark rusting around them.

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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

KAHruzer

Chi-
You would seem to also have a cooling system problem if the fan stays on every time after shutdown.

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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

2.7legend

um actually i had it set up like that.
because i seen a difference it made temperature wise.

you know what that stalk part i seen at one time looked like it was cooking.
and when i first start it up about a minute or two later it gets warm....

3d_Nomad

i Like your coupe, I used to have a white '88 L myself.

Any noticeable changes in ignition start?
Any noticeable changes of lights on, radio on, and blipping the throttle? If my guess is close, before(if that) the lights on your gauge cluster should help indicate if there's a dimming effect before improved grounding, and any dimming effect after improved grounding.

By the way, anyone tell you you have a clean engine?

digger89L

...I get the deal about new under coating ...but "navel jelly" ??? How do you separate out the belly-button lint?

acuralegend_racer

now back to ground wires... would it hurt or would it make any difference if i used 10 guage for ground wires? standard was 8-9 guage was it?

2.7legend

i think it'll be worse...the lower the # the better the operformance...i think

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1994 nissan maxima SE

88_acro

it would be better then nothing and 1 gauge difference is nothing you might be able to get away with 12 gauge hah

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LSATYD

sweet im doing this!
i allready added a new one from the engine to the body today and relaced both my battery cables

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