z00m

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showpost.p...0&postcount=11

I've found a Mazda MX6 that I really like on AutoTrader. I joined the forums and found a kick-azz thread on common problems and whatnot.. lifter ticking was listed

I'd shat a brick if I got lifter ticking with my next car, but I saw these instructions on how to rid the MX-6's of the ticking and I wanted to get some opinions on it.

I might be willing to do it to my Legend if it sounds safe.


Edit:
btw, i'm very scared right now about doing more to my engine.. i've done so much to it to shut it up.. i actually think that i shouldn't do the kerosene thing even if it could be beneficial. i did seafoam through the brake booster and pcv valve and it helped, but my ticking came back after a long interstate trip and now its a constant thing. i've actually done seafoam twice now.

^btw, the constant ticking returning is my reasoning for wanting a new car :p I'd love to find something to fix it for good before I sell it, but I can't see what else I haven't tried.. So that leads me to think that 2-3 of my lifters are worn out and need replacing (not gonna happen)

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old school

 

GREYLEGEND

It's safer to do now than before since you know that there are no major sludge issues still in your engine so the kerosene isn't likely to loosen a big chunk and cause problems. The operative word here is DO NOT REV. It's a pretty agressive flush with 3 parts kerosene to one part oil. If that doesn't dissolve your sludge then who knows.

Tell us your results and if your kerosene still comes out black!!!

SilentBob

where do you get kerosene anyway?

Acouplefrysshort

RentX. Most places that actually refill propane tanks (not those exchange things) carry kerosene.

z00m

how much does kerosene cost?


edit: i been readin on the mx6 forums more this mornin.. the ticking they have is probably experienced as much as it is here i'm starting to feel quite iffy about getting an mx6 now. The one i found is 6hrs away, its a black 95 5spd LS model w/ 95k miles for $4500. A used car dealership is selling it, not an individual.. the paint looks good in the pics, but i'd need more detailed pics before i rode up to see it. The interior looked great as well.

It seems that most owners get problems w/ their MX6's around 110k-120k so that'd give me a while before it started occuring.. and maybe I could hit the car w/ some auto-rx before it started happening.

http://autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?&m...del=MX6#vdptop

btw, after reading on their forums, i think i'll throw some 15w-40 or 20w-50 in my legend and see what that does for it

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old school

GREYLEGEND

Take a look under the hood of an MX6 and see if you even want to work on it. It's really cramped and not a pleasure to work on. Next, take a look at the general quality and see if the G1 stands heads and shoulders above it. Don't jump ship until you check it out very carefully. If your G1 body is in good shape, just drop in a JDM engine.

Legend_master

The other gold sedan is leaving the family to.......NOOOOOOOO J/K. Well this sounds like it would work, but seems kinda scary considerering how flameable keraosine is. I have know alot of people with MX6's and none of them were satisfied, they end up with alot of mechanical issues and are basically a ford probe with a mazda body. Hope you get what you want good luck

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My 1986 Accord Hatchback With an LS/Vtec

swift

This is what you do.

*Buy a quart of ATF tranny fluid.
*slowly drain about a quart of oil
*Put tranny fluid in oil and let idle for ten minutes and drive for 5
*Drain all oil and replace filter
*put in a quart of 5w30 mobil 1 synthetic and whatever is left in 10w30


----This is if the lifters are hydraulic lifters(i own a G2 so i dont know at this point..). Tranny fluid as well as diesel contains detergents that clean and unstick carbon.

I did this to my friends maxima as of yesterday(it sounded bbbbaaaadddd) and now....runs like new!!!!!!!!!

hope this helps.

PS-stick with the G1 and compete with LEE.

z00m

I read on BITOG that ATF has less detergents than modern day engine oils, that was merely a myth from the past when it actually did clean more than engine oils do today.

I have decided that I want to stick with my Legend throughout college, because my budget will not allow me to get a car that is reliable and sporty. I'm fine with this decision, only if I can quiet the lifter ticking my Legend suffers.

I think I will do the Kerosene flush even though it threatens the gaskets and seals (I feel confident that they are prepped with my previous additive treatments).

I changed my oil to Havoline 20w-50 today and it still ticks, but it's quieter. I noticed that my 1000 mile GC 0w-30 was still slightly green, indicating that my engine is probably quite clean inside. That scared me, because that would mean that I simply have worn lifters right now, and doesn't that mean that practically nothing will fix the tick?

The kerosene flush probably shouldn't help my engine if in fact I have worn lifters. I despise my engine.

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z00m

Well after more thinking and looking on ebay, I think I can get a JDM engine for about ~$650 shipped from PA. I'd have to swap some parts from my current engine to the new one, such as my new plug wires, timing belt, water pump, etc. As far as I know, taking off the timing belt and swapping it would be easy if the engines were out of the car right?

My family is in the midst of selling our house and my father and I cannot undertake much of the labor at all involved w/ the engine swap, so it seems that a mechanic will have to do everything. At least I hope we get to keep my old engine so I can do something with it in the future

Am I correct with my post above in the mindset that my lifters must in fact be worn and pretty much unrepairable? I have used Friction Free 3000 as Steveman recommended, my ticks remained.

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z00m

:Important:

I also noticed today when changing the oil that I've got another dent in my oil pan, more than previously, its actually pretty banged up, and I can't even recall damaging it. I did some searches to find out that having a dented oil pan could cause the oil pump to be starved of oil, resulting in ticking.. If that is the problem.. wow. I don't know what emotion I'll be experiencing after all I've done to get my engine to stop ticking.

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z00m

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old school

swift

well myth or not it worked!! I mean at one minute my friends engine sounds like he will put a hole through the pistons and the next it is gone!! I listened to it again today, fixed!!

might as well...

with the oil pump like that it may be to close to the pick up tube and result in it not having enough oil. Check your dipstick when it is running and see if the oil level is lower or not

good luck.

z00m

isn't it always gonna be lower since the oil is up in the engine?

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old school

swift

, think about it....