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| First Generation Legend (1986-1990)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I need some help for my son & his 88 Legend.
This car won't start. New battery, alternator, & starter. Turn the key and get dash lights... but only hear a click (like a relay). I have been told that the ignition module is bad.... where the heck is the ignition module or what is is called in the Chilton's. The engine never cranks... it has an automatic transmission. I also thought maybe the neutral safety switch is bad? Its a pretty decent car when it runs. Any other ideas??? Thanks ![]() Last edited by alanbcook : 08-30-08 at 02:20 AM. Reason: added more details |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Mo*or Mo**h
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I'd first suggest you check all the grounds.
The click appears to show power getting to the circuit, but not with enough amps to engage the starter. There are two major ground wires. The negative lead off the battery has two points of grounding downstream, one under the battery to the frame (cable mid-point) and the second (cable end) to the engine block at the starter. These tend to become corroded over time. The battery tray has to be removed to get to this connection. The second ground cable is from the frame near the front passenger side hood latch goes to an engine bolt at the front left (passenger) side valve cover. All these connections need to be clean and corrosion free. When you turn the ignition switch to "ON" (starter not engaged) and wait a few seconds, can you hear the fuel pump start up to pressurize the fuel system? It runs only 2 seconds. The sound comes from the passenger side rear and should be apparent. If not, there could be either a fuel pump issue or the famed Main Relay solder issue. You can search this forum for much information about the Main Relay issue.
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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Helena, AL
Posts: 710
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Sounds like no current is getting to the starter. He hasn't, by chance left the window down in the rain, has he? The reason I ask is that the feed for the starter relay runs through the security control unit, located under the driver's seat. If that gets wet, then it'll short out and give the exact symptoms you're describing.....
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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We can test that whole not enough current to the starter thought. Take a big ass wire. Nothing thin now don't be dumb. And jump it from the + termnal of the battery to the + side of the starter. I think it has like a blue shield over it. It should have some sort of cover over it. Do this with the ignition switch on and see if she runs.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Mo*or Mo**h
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Just noticed your in Washington (state, I presume).
Since I'm an OSU alum, I have to kick a notch for them against Wash St this afternoon. Go Pokes! btw, I presume you know about the ECU/TCU LED Blink Codes and have checked for any? I doubt any would apply to this situation directly, but it's always the first thing to check.
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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07) |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 607
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Quote:
PBA (please be advised) you are completing a 100 amp circuit. Wear sunglasses. Dave |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Mo*or Mo**h
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If you want to check the Neutral Safety Switch, it's actually part of the Main Relay (I think, others will surely correct me if I'm wrong). It's signal, however, is sent via the Neutral Light indicator circuit in the console, at the shifter (which also connects to the Instrument Cluster indicator sequentially).
Over time, all the copper contacts in these cars tend to corrode, especially if a drink or such is spilled onto the console. Are you getting a good shift position indication on both of these indicators? If not, I'd suggest a cleaning of these copper contacts in the shifter area.
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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 399
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If you do try putting a jumper wire in be sure to remove any metal rings, since you don't want to get a short across a ring.
If you are hearing a click the starter solenoid is probably working. I would check for bad connections at the battery or starter. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Wow... kinda overwhelming response. Thanks for all the suggestions. Here is where we stand today:
I went and put the key in the on position ... dash warning indicators etc... I do not hear the fuel pump run. When you try to start it all you hear is relay click sound - as your sitting in driver side it evident on the right side under/behind the glove box area. More and more this sounds like a main relay problem??? My son was supposed to remove battery & check the ground connections..... I haven't talked with him yet to see if that was done. I also think I will wait on the welding experiment at this point... He also has a 88 Honda CRX he just bought and it is torn apart to put in a new clutch..... I know I am gonna end up fixing the Acura in my spare time which is near none at this point.. Again I wanna thank u all for your suggestions. KAHruzer" Just noticed your in Washington (state, I presume). Since I'm an OSU alum, I have to kick a notch for them against Wash St this afternoon. Go Pokes! btw, I presume you know about the ECU/TCU LED Blink Codes and have checked for any? I doubt any would apply to this situation directly, but it's always the first thing to check. " Last time I watched the Cougs they were down 18-0..... I skipped right by it and didn't stop .... Tough first game for WAZZU's new coach. Besides that I actually a transplanted OKIE.... but I am a Sooner Fan... And I have a code reader.... but I haven't checked yet. Can I use one of those on this rig?? Or do I have to count blinking lights... Alan Last edited by alanbcook : 08-31-08 at 12:38 AM. Reason: more info on troubleshooting |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hey i have a suggestion , try to start teh car and set teh car to Nuetral , then start the car .
Screw the key to the full and imidiately kick the race to the full ,the car should start by then.
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San Diego Home Insurance |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
You should really try that whole jumper thing. It would answer a lot of questions. Although that code reader isnt necessary for this car. Just check it the passenger footwell beneath the carpet and count the blinks. Dont pay any attention to the yellow light for now, its for the idle. Just check the red blinks. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I just thought of another thing , that is you said that the car is in auto transmission , then i guess one thing , though you said that the lights are on , that tell that you batteries are perfect.
Then it should be that the engine is lacking something that will take the power from the batteries , i guess it is a serious matter now , such that you get to the machanics. You see playing with teh engines in a thought of getting it ok might let you ina condition that you have to spenda good cash BUYING ONE !!
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San Diego Home Insurance |
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#15 (permalink) |
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489,000 km's stil going
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: GTA
Posts: 1,005
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Why would he not just turn the key to "on" then take a much small jumper wire and touch the solenoid terminal on the starter from the + terminal on the battery. (much less power to activate the solenoid and danger but same effect) He says he changed the starter so it should be new and working. That will also tell you if your ignition circuit is faulty if this works to start it.
Then follow KAHruzer's points. |
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