stephen

The neutral safety switch keeps the car from starting unless it's in park. That could be the problem if it's defective, but in that case it wouldn't make a click, which is the solenoid activating.

I would try putting 12 volts to the solenoid input. If that doesn't crank the engine either the starter is defective or there is a a bad connection. If it does make it crank then you need to trace the crank voltage. No crank voltage could be a number of things including the ignition switch. I think you have crank voltage since you hear a click.

 

alanbcook

Ok.. here is the latest. He removed the battery well & checked connections and cleaned them up. We also removed the lower dash panel and found the main relay .... that little bugger is not easy to get to. I pulled it out and checked the connections... although I do not see any cracks... I will take it to work with me on Tuesday and resolder all the the connections. NOW .... I also looked at the ECU.... and there are no LEDs lit up in the window in any key position. The only the thing that does seem to be getting juice is a small pair of relays that are on the passenger side under that lower panel ... takes 3 screws to remove this panel..... they click on when the ignition is engaged (trying to start)

1) NO FUEL PUMP RUNNING FOR 2 SECS....
2) MAIN RELAY APPEARS GOOD - NO CLICKS WHEN IN 1st POSITION, NO CLICKS IN 2nd POSITION & NO CLICKS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START.
3) NO STATUS LEDs IN THE CLEAR WINDOW ON THE ECU....

IT APPEARS we have no power to the ECU...... any body have an idea where to go from here other than a mechanic????

l4zy415

Did you put the relay back on before you checked the ECU?

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KAHruzer

This is tending toward the Main Relay.

But, you can check the ECU by turning ON the ignition switch and watching the ECU, the Red LED should light momentarily when it first powers up. That's the power up self-test indicating it's functioning properly. A bad ECU usually presents itself as a steady ON RED LED.

You might read this thread on starting problems. Seems it resolved by a simple reset of the ECU when no power was getting to the ECU, and thus the Main Relay.

As I stated there, I've never heard of the ECU power being stalled in this manner, until this week (now, twice, if yours turns out the same).

The ECU can be reset by pulling the Alt Sense Fuse in the under hood fusebox for 15 seconds.

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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

bfarrell01

I dont see it as the main relay, if that were the case wouldnt the engine still turn over just not start?

stephen

Yes. It would crank but not start or try to start and immediately die. Usually,
it happens in hot weather only as well.

pnoye2

It sounds like a faulty/bad ignition switch to me... AND the module is attached to the back of the cylinder itself!

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294K+ miles; original power/drive trains