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| First Generation Legend (1986-1990)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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no power to fuel pump main relay good
I don't know what else to check. I have the shop service manual on CD. The harness checks out, power at all stages of the ignition switch. Fuel pump is good, the book shows where to put the jumper it runs fine. I checked the relay per the book (it was good). Others told me to buy a new one. Still will not provide 12 v to the fuel pump. Only other thing I can think of is ECU. I've spent hours chasing this one. The car will run if I provide fuel. Any help would be great. 88 legend sedan
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New jersey
Posts: 126
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You said any help would be great two suggestions for you
1. Check fuse to fuel pump 2. Check the connections having anything to do with the fuel rail theres some kind of ground in that area if im not mistaking |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Mo*or Mo**h
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There's a Starter Relay, which I think is what you said you checked and was good. But, the Main Relay is the thing which activates the Fuel Pump and Starting Circuit. The Starter Relay is the Low-to-High voltage exchange.
I think you need to check the Main Relay. Seach this forum, there's lots of info about that.
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Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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The fuel pump fuse is good, if I jump the harness it travels through the fuse to the pump. I can get the pump to run by jumping the harness pin 5 & 7 of main relay. I've determined that the relay is actually 2 relays in one. the first is batt voltage to ecu, power to injectores and power to second relay which should energize the fuel pump for 2 seconds. I'm guessing the ground (pin 8) back to the relay must be open. The relay will never close the pin 5 & 7 which provides voltage to the fuel pump. Both relays check out if I power up the posts and check the connection (per the acura shop manual). I was sure I could swap the main relay and be on my way. Not so lucky. Thx for the tip on the ground on the fuel relay. I'll have to check all the grounds.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Problem solved, the ecu was not providing power to the main relay. There was a fault code that caused the issue. I unplugged the 7.5 amp alternator sensor fuse which is located under the hood (in the relay box by the battery). You have to leave it out for at least 10 seconds. I should have tried this first, would have saved me a few hours and the price of a relay. Rookie mistake, thanks for the suggestions, it made me keep digging and thinking
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Hey exatcly what model your car is ?
I used to have 1988 legend , that had a ECU code of CarDAQ-plus J2534 pass-thru hardware device , thus you can install the 325i Fault code '26' ECU voltage ( what ever supports yours )
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San Diego Home Insurance |
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#8 (permalink) |
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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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Glad you found the problem. I would have tookin' my car apart lol.
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______________ 18" Limited 341 Chrome Rims/\Matador Red Paint/\Weapon R - Secret Weapon Intake/\LED Bright White Dash Lights/Floor/\Kenwood KDC-X590 Excelon Mp3 Deck/\Ford Taurus Coin/Cup Holder/\2 12" Kickers/\1200 Watt Sony XM-2200GTX 2-Channel Xplod Amp/\2 Rockford Fosgate Capacitors/\Power Acoustic Capacitor/\Clear Rear Turn Signal/\Reverse Glow Gauges/\Swapped 88' Headlights to 89'-90'/\JDM Rear Chrome Trim/\Stromung Muffler/ Soon To Come: Rebuild Motor and 5-MT Swap
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