Power Steering HP Hose - Page 2

kotetu · 07-03-08, 11:49 PM

why not get a stainless steel braided line? Properly made stainless steel lines can withstand as much as 3500psi. (ss brake line testing)

pnoye2 · 07-04-08, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KAHruzer

>The sensor was kind of a surprise to me. Wonder what it does exactly.

>What's the potential for damaging the pump or steering box here?

>That sensor tapped into the HP line is called PS oil (hydraulic fluid) pressure switch. It's function; in a nut shell... control/counteract fluid force within the PS apparatus.

>If the car is your DD then keep topping off the reservoir, don't let it run dry... if you do the pump will take the hit first then Rack&Pinion will follow.

kotetu · 07-04-08, 12:25 AM

Use duct tape for the short run.

stephen · 07-04-08, 05:02 PM

The 1500 psi was just a guess. Whatever was in the manual is correct.

The part link I gave you was to auto parts warehouse. They are a mail order parts supply place that I have had good luck with. They had the hose for ~$150.

I'm sure you have to disconnect at least part of the line from underneath the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KAHruzer

Ran into it in the manual. It's 1138-1280 psi. But, that probably means a 1500psi hose for safety margin.

I snapped a photo down the firewall from the top. All that's visible is the end of the hose where the sensor is located and its' connector (see below). It didn't appear to attach to anything there, but it goes out of sight as the firewall tapers to the back. Whatever it is, it's probably going to have be done from the bottom end.

The sensor was kind of a surprise to me. Wonder what it does exactly.

That ps leak is messing up my engine!! And power steering doesn't work at all well either, except for that short part of the drive when the reservoir is full. There's now also a 30" round spot in my driveway. Man, I hate that.

Stopped pouring fluid into it and it stays about a 1/4" below the LOW mark. Power steering is flaky, like a knotted rope.

What's the potential for damaging the pump or steering box here?

KAHruzer · 07-05-08, 11:45 AM

Well, after looking it over awhile, decided to attempt to slow the leak down some so it wouldn't just spray fluid everywhere. At least, until I get a replacement hose. If this works, then I can put off the purchase until next month, which helps from a cashflow standpoint. Too many other things this month have cost me money. And, I don't drive it much.

Doubt duct tape would suffice, but it might. Didn't have any around anyway.

So, used some plumbers' sealant, hardened overnight, wrapped with electical tape (mostly for isolation of the sealant), then topped with a band clamp, just snugged, not clamped down (to keep sealant in place).

I figured the 1500psi over a 1/16" square equated to about 6 lbs. Over a 1" seam at 1/16", then, that comes to less than 100 lbs.

This may hold for awhile. At least keep the fluid down to less than a quart/day.

May be some potential for the entire hose end to come loose from the metal. But, no harm, no foul.

kotetu: Doubt there's any ss line out there which includes all the proper fittings or the sensor. This is a very specific replacement item. Surprised parts shops have it at all.

KAHruzer · 08-07-08, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xcaliber003

There are also two mounting brackets with 10mm bolts on the lower part of the hose where it becomes a stiff metal line. They are pretty tough to get to and they are located behind the steering rack on the frame of the car along the bottom of the firewall.
GL

Found these. Also found how difficult these two little buggers are.

Got one, which was only nearly impossible, the other one IS impossible, it also has the exhaust pipe below and a hanger in the way, plus the HP line itself does a squared "U" around the bolt head.

Something's gotta give here. In looking at it, it appears the entire front end, suspension, rack and pinion box and perhaps the exhaust pipe need to be removed to get that last 10mm x 1cm bolt.

I'm fuming. Any hints?

paulo57509 · 08-08-08, 10:25 AM

Earl's makes PS-specific hose, but you have to make it up or have someone make it up for you with the proper fittings, etc.

By the time you factor in all the different fittings you'll need, designing the hose run with the proper bends, etc, you might as well just bite the bullet and get a replacement hose already made to fit.

KAHruzer · 08-08-08, 12:38 PM

Got the part, $75 from O'Reily's.

The problem is getting the old one out.

Finally broke down and called the Dealer, asked about Time & Labor from their job books. Four hours. If it weren't for this one little bolt, it's a 15 minute job.

Let's see, 4 x $60/hr = $240, Dealer part was $279, making this one hose worth about $520.

IF (and, I mean IF) I get it done myself, I've saved $425.

I'll have to keep repeating that as I work. Looks like the entire steering system has to drop down/out to get there.

Anyone know if the tranny has to be jack-supported when that longitudinal member with the tranny mount is detached from from the cross member supporting the steering rack?

I'm seriously considering abandoning the old one in place and running the new one parallel until such time as other suspension work is done.

pnoye2 · 08-08-08, 01:06 PM

I was hoping that someone would come up with a better approach; unfortunately not

...you'd have to dropped the Rack&Pinion KAHruzer, to fully gain access on them mounting brackets. We have a DIY (by yours truly) in place; removal and installation,

And NO you do not need to support the engine/tranny weight once the crossmember is removed.

PM me if you'd need further assistance on this... you can save tons of money by doing this yourself

KAHruzer · 08-08-08, 01:16 PM

Thanks, Pnoye2

I'm going to wait until early evening today to take another wack at it.
Not sure I'm up to dropping the entire steering rack, but did read your DIY. Thanks for that, too.

Will kind of evaluate that against the temporary parallel run.

Good thing the car's not really needed at this point.

KAHruzer · 08-08-08, 01:30 PM

Ponye2,

Re-read your DIY again. It made me wonder if Step IV-a could be done without Steps I, II & III if the Steering Box isn't going to actually be removed?

If I can take the cross member down without removing all that other stuff is the question, I guess? That would certainly simplify things greatly.

Oh, and as my photo ilustrates, my wheels aren't exactly off the ground, with the ramps I used. If I'm going to have to remove the wheels, I need a new setup.

pnoye2 · 08-08-08, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KAHruzer

>Re-read your DIY again. It made me wonder if Step IV-a could be done without Steps I, II & III if the Steering Box isn't going to actually be removed?

>If I can take the cross member down without removing all that other stuff is the question, I guess? That would certainly simplify things greatly.

>Oh, and as my photo ilustrates, my wheels aren't exactly off the ground, with the ramps I used. If I'm going to have to remove the wheels, I need a new setup.

^^^ YES, YES and YES

...you'd need to raise the front end (safely) as high as you can; for working clearance porposes

Just visualizing here KAHruzer... in your case, prolly just Step IV h - l is all you need to do and hopefully you gain enough clearance for the mounting bracket removal.

I'll PM you my contact info., just in case...

Edit: PM sent!

KAHruzer · 08-08-08, 02:28 PM

Thanks again.

I'll pm you this evening sometime in any case.

KAHruzer · 08-08-08, 08:44 PM

Next Phase of Power Steering High-Pressure hose replacement: A new setup.

Wasn't sure I could do this, but it worked, at least this one side, still have the other side to go. This gives me enough room underneath to actually do the work. My floor jack wouldn't go high enough by itself from the ground, so this worked out well. I used the Legend's Scissor Jack on top of a one foot section of railroad tie.

Of course, I'm a little paranoid about having a redundancy on this and those skinny little jack stand props don't do it for me. Going to have to find something to put under somewhere to give me more comfort.

07-05-08, 11:45 AM	#20 (permalink)
KAHruzer Moor Mo*h Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Soonerville Posts: 1,564 Car 1: 1987 Legend LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	Well, after looking it over awhile, decided to attempt to slow the leak down some so it wouldn't just spray fluid everywhere. At least, until I get a replacement hose. If this works, then I can put off the purchase until next month, which helps from a cashflow standpoint. Too many other things this month have cost me money. And, I don't drive it much. Doubt duct tape would suffice, but it might. Didn't have any around anyway. So, used some plumbers' sealant, hardened overnight, wrapped with electical tape (mostly for isolation of the sealant), then topped with a band clamp, just snugged, not clamped down (to keep sealant in place). I figured the 1500psi over a 1/16" square equated to about 6 lbs. Over a 1" seam at 1/16", then, that comes to less than 100 lbs. This may hold for awhile. At least keep the fluid down to less than a quart/day. May be some potential for the entire hose end to come loose from the metal. But, no harm, no foul. kotetu: Doubt there's any ss line out there which includes all the proper fittings or the sensor. This is a very specific replacement item. Surprised parts shops have it at all. __________________ Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

08-08-08, 10:25 AM	#22 (permalink)
paulo57509 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Tracy, CA Posts: 1,534 iTrader: (0)	Earl's makes PS-specific hose, but you have to make it up or have someone make it up for you with the proper fittings, etc. By the time you factor in all the different fittings you'll need, designing the hose run with the proper bends, etc, you might as well just bite the bullet and get a replacement hose already made to fit. __________________ '87 L-Coupe 5-Speed Stock; NO Mods 392K Miles - original engine and drivetrain.

08-08-08, 12:38 PM	#23 (permalink)
KAHruzer Moor Mo*h Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Soonerville Posts: 1,564 Car 1: 1987 Legend LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	Got the part, $75 from O'Reily's. The problem is getting the old one out. Finally broke down and called the Dealer, asked about Time & Labor from their job books. Four hours. If it weren't for this one little bolt, it's a 15 minute job. Let's see, 4 x $60/hr = $240, Dealer part was $279, making this one hose worth about $520. IF (and, I mean IF) I get it done myself, I've saved $425. I'll have to keep repeating that as I work. Looks like the entire steering system has to drop down/out to get there. Anyone know if the tranny has to be jack-supported when that longitudinal member with the tranny mount is detached from from the cross member supporting the steering rack? I'm seriously considering abandoning the old one in place and running the new one parallel until such time as other suspension work is done. __________________ Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

08-08-08, 01:06 PM	#24 (permalink)
pnoye2 Wowoweeee Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Laguna Hills, California Posts: 3,278 Car 1: '89 Sedan w/Auto (base model) iTrader: (0)	I was hoping that someone would come up with a better approach; unfortunately not ...you'd have to dropped the Rack&Pinion KAHruzer, to fully gain access on them mounting brackets. We have a DIY (by yours truly) in place; removal and installation, And NO you do not need to support the engine/tranny weight once the crossmember is removed. PM me if you'd need further assistance on this... you can save tons of money by doing this yourself __________________ 291K+ miles; original power/drive trains

08-08-08, 01:16 PM	#25 (permalink)
KAHruzer Moor Mo*h Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Soonerville Posts: 1,564 Car 1: 1987 Legend LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	Thanks, Pnoye2 I'm going to wait until early evening today to take another wack at it. Not sure I'm up to dropping the entire steering rack, but did read your DIY. Thanks for that, too. Will kind of evaluate that against the temporary parallel run. Good thing the car's not really needed at this point. __________________ Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

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08-08-08, 01:30 PM	#26 (permalink)
KAHruzer Moor Mo*h Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Soonerville Posts: 1,564 Car 1: 1987 Legend LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	Ponye2, Re-read your DIY again. It made me wonder if Step IV-a could be done without Steps I, II & III if the Steering Box isn't going to actually be removed? If I can take the cross member down without removing all that other stuff is the question, I guess? That would certainly simplify things greatly. Oh, and as my photo ilustrates, my wheels aren't exactly off the ground, with the ramps I used. If I'm going to have to remove the wheels, I need a new setup. __________________ Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07) Last edited by KAHruzer : 08-08-08 at 01:52 PM.

08-08-08, 02:28 PM	#28 (permalink)
KAHruzer Moor Mo*h Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Soonerville Posts: 1,564 Car 1: 1987 Legend LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	Thanks again. I'll pm you this evening sometime in any case. __________________ Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

08-08-08, 08:44 PM	#29 (permalink)
KAHruzer Moor Mo*h Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Soonerville Posts: 1,564 Car 1: 1987 Legend LS Coupe iTrader: (0)	Next Phase of Power Steering High-Pressure hose replacement: A new setup. Wasn't sure I could do this, but it worked, at least this one side, still have the other side to go. This gives me enough room underneath to actually do the work. My floor jack wouldn't go high enough by itself from the ground, so this worked out well. I used the Legend's Scissor Jack on top of a one foot section of railroad tie. Of course, I'm a little paranoid about having a redundancy on this and those skinny little jack stand props don't do it for me. Going to have to find something to put under somewhere to give me more comfort. Attached Images __________________ Stock 1987 Legend LS Coupe 180k (11/07)

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