car2n

In my quest to find horse power for my G1 drag project (before getting NSX) i did a lot of research on how to increase power internaly, due to the lack of space in G1 i had to go on this dirction first...in case your are one day intersted on do all motor there is a company in california that does C30 cylinder block sleeving i talked to them about doing a c27a1 because of the similar block caracterstics and they said that they can do it for $1500.00 the name of this company is RS machines may be you can check their web site the type of sleeving i am talking about is to increase bore size and sleeve wall thickness, this is done in the c30 to increase to c32...

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LegeNd-SX
In memory of my son Isai "car2n"

 

legend89chopped

The 2.7 is already sleeved, and is a hell of a strong block.

I'll put it like this:

My engine had 140K miles on it when I bought the car.

I abused it every time I drove it, but kept fresh oil in it.

At 320K I rebuilt the heads, and left the block alone. At the same time, I installed the engine management kit which allowed free-tuning, and adjustable rev limit. I set it to 7500 RPM.

Between 320K and 350K miles, I did nothing but open road tuning. Basically, running the SH!# out of it, and making adjustments to timing and fuel to see what feels better. I tapped the rev limit of 7500 RPM every time I drove it, and it lasted over 30K miles on that old worn out block. I basically was trying to blow it up, to see where the weak points were.

The weak points I found were in the pistons. The piston skirts had just worn away too much from all the hard driving (and mileage!) to keep taking it. It's currently torn down, and I kid you not, the hash marks from the factory hone are still visible on the cylinder walls! Most of the wear is only on the piston skirts.

My overall point being that the block is a strong one. If you only invest in stronger pistons, rods, a very good crank balance job, and some head work, that'll take you a long way with that engine. I'm not planning re-sleeving, but just a slight bore to straighten the cylinders out, and honing.

So unless you're talking about trying to get more than 350hp or so, I don't think re-sleeving is worth it.

NALMFTW

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----------------TURN HEADS----------------

l4zy415

Damn, well said legend89chopped. Your nuts for trying to blow up the motor lol.

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\18" Limited 341 Chrome Rims/\Matador Red Paint/\Weapon R - Secret Weapon Intake/\LED Bright White Dash Lights/Floor/\Kenwood KDC-X590 Excelon Mp3 Deck/\Ford Taurus Coin/Cup Holder/\2 12" Kickers/\1200 Watt Sony XM-2200GTX 2-Channel Xplod Amp/\2 Rockford Fosgate Capacitors/\Power Acoustic Capacitor/\Clear Rear Turn Signal/\Reverse Glow Gauges/\Swapped 88' Headlights to 89'-90'/\JDM Rear Chrome Trim/\Stromung Muffler/
Soon To Come: Rebuild Motor and 5-MT Swap

jago

i have to say i've found the motor to be very strong, i've had the nitrous comming in at 1500-2000rpm with no i'll effects (except clutch and tyres)

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1988 Rover 827Si Auto (honda c27a2) -timming advanced (DIY), 2.0" exhaust(diy), CAI(diy), EBC Green stuff front pads, Lowered 1" on Pi springs, 16" speedline alloys, Pace racing seats front and rear recaro seats, carbonfibre covered dashboard insert,
nitrous (204hp @ 6134 and 187lbs @ 5596 - 23sept 2008) 270hp with nitrous (not power run yet)

http://www.rollingroadtune.co.uk