murderotica

Nice approach, Gabe. I like it.

I've been thinking about doing a hood scoop honestly... just mimicking the one of the turbo legend.

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awelliott

Gabe, do you have any recommendations on a bypass valve? I was scrolling around ebay and noticed a drastic price range from as low as 10 bucks up to the mid 40s. Thanks....

sam o nela

AEM seems to be the only reputable brand...I've already bought mine...shop around and you'll find a good price...

I got mine for $44 shipped brand new...and ebay ftw...

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awelliott

Thanks for the info - just snagged one off of ebay...

awelliott

Mine is hooked up - I'm just waiting on the bypass valve to arrive.

I went a little different route in that I used the original snorkel coming off of the intake. It seems like the seal on the vacuum lines is a little more reliable than the grommets on the PVC, plus it maintains a perfect fit around the intake. The only thing I had to do was to rotate the original snorkel clockwise a few degrees to match the angle of the PVC. I bought a piece of 3" thinwall PVC at Lowes and cut a section off to connect the original snorkel to the end of the 90 degree fitting coming around the battery. When my bypass valve arrives, I'll split that section in half and mount it there.

I haven't driven it enough to reach any conclusions, performance-wise. The noise difference is negligible; there may be a bit more of a growl in the tone under heavy acceleration, but it isn't really noticeable. Also, there was no change in the idle. One thing I really like is that the removal of the factory equipment increases the accessibility in the engine compartment.

The 91 Prelude filter was a tight fit in the resonator's old location, but it provides a great deal of flow and shouldn't be much of a problem to change. It will be interesting to see how often it needs changed since it is riding so close to the ground and isn't contained in an external cannister (I guess I had better avoid dirt roads). BTW, if you come up with a better idea filter-wise, please let me know. I'm also not a fan of the foam/oil filters. Better flow is always nice, but you're dancing with the devil if you acheive it at the expense of filtration.

Anyway, thanks for the great idea Gabe, it's a great solution at a fraction of the cost of an aftermarket setup.

Beeze

^ Lets see some PICS!!!

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Artillery129

did you try insulating the pvc with jet black, that way the pvc wont heat up and transfer a lot of heat to the intaked air, and btw routing it behind your wheel well you could probably get even colder air

awelliott

Nothing special, but here are a couple from the top side that I shot last night:






And here's one taken from underneath by the driver's tire. You can just barely see the bottom of the filter peeking through the ventilation slits. It shows how crowded the 91 Prelude filter is once you squeeze it into the old resonator compartment. Getting the splash shield back on is a little tough, but not too bad. I could probably cut another 1/2" off of my tube and make it an easier fit.

sam o nela

Hmmm...yeah I'd have to say it's your tube bc I didnt run into that problem...

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awelliott

I agree. Your installation looks like you used 90 degree elbows and connected them with rubber couplings. Since I was using my stock snorkel off of the intake and had a longer run, I bought a section of 3" thinwall and glued it into the elbows and only used couplings where I needed to break the system to remove it or to get to components (filter and bypass valve). So on the elbow going down into the former resonator area, I glued about a 4" piece of PVC and connected it to the filter with a coupling. I saw that the filter would be a tight fit, but I didn't feel like taking it apart at the time; however, next time I'm in there I'll knock a couple of inches off of that and should be good to go.

BTW, I'm still up in the air over a filter. As luck would have it, I drove today in a torrential downpour (first rain I've seen in weeks). Even though my bypass hasn't arrived, I wasn't worried about hydrostatic lock because I'd have to drive into a puddle deep enough to submerge the filter for that to come into play. However, I'm a little leery of the reliability and lifespan of that paper filter if it's going to repeatedly get drenched. Unfortunately there appears to be a ton of contradictory information concerning the various filter media (paper, oiled foam, gauze, etc).

sam o nela

Yeah having the filter that low (practically resting on the splash shield) might be a little troublesome especially on the metal cap and paper pleats....

Getting it up even an inch over the splash shield might make all the difference...

And in all honesty, I really have no answer to the "wetness" thing. I don't think paper, gauze, foam, anything really, was intended to run after a complete soaking. The paper would become brittle, the cotton gauze would lose its oillyness (and thus its filtering capabilities), and foam just sucks all around...

The most honest answer I could give is during winter/rainy seasons, go with either the stock setup, or a "flatter" filter in the fender well....

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awelliott

Yeah, I'm going to just keep an eye on it for now and see how much it deteriorates; if I get in the mood, I might try elevating the filter an inch or so. Maybe it's much ado about nothing, but I suspect that the paper won't hold up all that well.

The good thing is that even if this particular setup doesn't fit the bill, I'm sure that there is one out there that will. I suspect that an oiled gauze or even a dual stage foam filter (assuming what study you care to believe) would hold up okay because the splash shield is going to keep 99% of the water out.

I have no way of quantifying this, but the performance does seem a little better, especially when accelerating on the interstate. In addition, the growl is at it's most pronounced under heavy acceleration on the interstate and sounds pretty good. Not quite like being 17 again, but not bad.

sam o nela

Yeah I've been looking at different filter shapes and looking for something conical yet smaller that will give comparable filtering area yet a maximum amount of space AWAY from the splash shield...

EDIT: Here are some ideas...these pictures are K&N but they are just for example...I plan to find comparable Paper filters as well for those that prefer them...however, due to their immense amount of custom shaped filters, they are a good place to start for the measurements and shapes we need...




RU-2430 Product Specifications
Product Style: Round Straight Universal Air Filter
Flange Inside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 5 in (127 mm)
Outside Diameter: 5 in (127 mm)
Top Style: Rubber


RB-0900 Product Specifications
Product Style: Round Straight Universal Air Filter
Flange Angle: 5 degrees
Flange Inside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Flange Length: 1 in (25 mm)
Flange Type: Angled
Height: 4 in (102 mm)
Outside Diameter: 4.5 in (114 mm)
Top Style: Rubber



RC-9130 Product Specifications
Product Style: Round Straight Universal Air Filter
Flange Inside Diameter: 3.188 in (81 mm)
Flange Length: 1 in (25 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 4.438 in (113 mm)
Outside Diameter: 4.938 in (125 mm)
Top Style: Metal



RX-4750 Product Specifications
Product Style: Oval Tapered Universal Air Filter
Base Outside Length: 8 in (203 mm)
Base Outside Width: 6 in (152 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Flange Length: 1.875 in (48 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 6.5 in (165 mm)
Top Outside Length: 5 in (127 mm)
Top Outside Width: 5 in (127 mm)
Top Style: X-Stream



RX-4990 Product Specifications
Product Style: Round Tapered Universal Air Filter
Base Outside Diameter: 6 in (152 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 3 in (76 mm)
Flange Length: 1.875 in (48 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 5.563 in (141 mm)
Top Outside Diameter: 5 in (127 mm)
Top Style: X-Stream

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mrtouchedme

I still say try the AEM dry flow filters....I'm gonna get one and see what happens....