awelliott

Thanks for the update. That RX-4750 looks like it might fit the bill exactly for someone who wants to mount it in the resonator cavity. As soon as I get the time, I'm going to search around and see if I can come up with anything as well. Again, much of the problem is wading through the contending claims - seems like most of the major manufacturers have studies showing that their filter offers the best combination of flowrate and filtration. Still haven't received my AEM bypass valve - if I'm pleased with it (and I expect to be), then I'm going to look hard at them on the filtration side as well.

 

zany

so does the PVC setup sound different from dryer hose CAI?

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7/04 - 9/05: 1987 Legend L, 5 sp, 178K
legend with damage/
vtec y0!!!!!!!!

sam o nela

Yeah I'm probably going to go with an AEM dry flow as well...gotta find one with good measurements....keep in mind that these K&N pictures are solely for measurement and shape comparissons. If I find a reputable dry flow that has a perfect size, it will go here....

Also, I would imagine that the sound between dryer hose and PVC isnt too different...

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<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
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<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>

Fut

Gabe I joined the CAI club last year, I simply luv it!

One...

Fut

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awelliott

Got the bypass valve today. Didn't get a chance to put it on, but I played around with it a little. AEM has a ton of disclaimers saying that they can't guarantee that they'll work with anything but an AEM intake tube, as well as some other stuff, all things that I expected them to say. However, what I didn't expect was their statement that their 3" bypass requires 2 inches of free space around the circumference of the foam filter (the smaller valves aren't much different). I'd have a great deal of trouble finding a single location within my engine bay that will meet that requirement. I guess I'll just put it where I originally planned - I'll have two inches or so around most of it, but it's going to be very tight in a couple of areas, especially next to the battery tray/radiator hose. I'm hoping that the reason behind this requirement is simply that they want to ensure that the valve can take in enough air to avoid a hydrolock condition. Might be a day or two before I get around to it, but I'll post a pic once I do.

Even if my setup isn't optimum, I'm assuming that it's better than nothing at all. I have a test in mind that I'm hoping will shed some light on things. I plan to try something along the lines of leaving the system mounted in the car, disconnecting at the intake and ducting my shop vac there and then removing the filter and extending the tube into a 5 gal bucket of water and see if my shop vac is strong enough to suck up the water and/or open the valve. Not exactly real world, but it should at least give me some idea of whether it will work. Thoughts?

awelliott

Yup, I think that's the way I'm gonna go as well. Getting them wet won't hurt anything since that's how they're cleaned anyway. No oil to mess with, so the maintenance is much easier. It's just a matter of figuring out what they offer that best fits the space I'm using....

sam o nela

Well ladies and gentle man here is the AEM bypass valve...



Unfortunately, with our already tight engine compartments, you will have to get creative on just where you place it....mine is just barely rubbing on one of the wire's rubber boots. No big deal I think....

Glad to have my CAI back on!

And since I had everything out, I also went ahead and upgraded my positive battery cable to 2 gauge, cleaned all the grounds on the negative cable (will be upgrading that wire soon too...have to find a suitable terminal for the frame ground), and I had to replace a leaky clutch fluid line.

She runs great to say the least

Now I'm just waiting for that AEM dry filter

__________________


<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>

awelliott

Looks good! That's exactly where I placed my bypass valve, but my angle is a little different. As a result, mine is lightly touching the radiator hose on one side and the side of the battery tray on the other. AEM requires 2" of clearance around the circumference of the valve, but I'm not sure that there is a place in the engine compartment that will meet that requirement. My suspicion is that it's overkill; they want to ensure that, if the valve is ever called upon, it can pull enough air to prevent the engine from pulling water from the main filter. So long as the restrictions are minimal and the valve doesn't touch anything hard enough to deflect it partially open, it should be good to go. I checked with a couple of guys I trust and they basically said the same thing.

ihvnoclu2002

So no more leaky clutch eh? Glad to hear!

But Gabe....would it KILL you to spray some Simple Green into that engine bay!?

sam o nela

Hahahaha...sorry...its not that "simple"

__________________


<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>

89redcoupe

What about taking your filter off and putting your hand over the intake hose and seeing how much suction you have compared to no bypass.

awelliott

That's a good way of ensuring that the valve works, but what I'd really like to know is whether the bypass will draw enough air to prevent ingesting water should the regular filter become submerged. I honestly don't think it's much of an issue as I'm confident that the filter would have to be submerged, plus there's not much danger of flash floods around here. However, it never hurts to have a little insurance.

sam o nela

Here ya go guys!

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...lve/index.html

__________________


<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>

awelliott

Excellent! I'll rest a little easier now - thanks!!

knownaschubs

well its kinda obvious that i'm a noob, but is it possible to hook a cone or round shape filter straight into the stock hose after removing the air box and all that? trying to make small and quick changes. After i get my budget up i intend on doing my own CAI