Car 1: '87L, 5 speed Sedan
Car 2: '71 Datsun PL521
Car 3: '03 Infiniti I35
iTrader Score: 14 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by knownaschubs
well its kinda obvious that i'm a noob, but is it possible to hook a cone or round shape filter straight into the stock hose after removing the air box and all that? trying to make small and quick changes. After i get my budget up i intend on doing my own CAI
Yeah you could do it...I've seen it done before...its pretty much like making a short ram...but you'll probably get the same results by just removing the stock air box top.
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i see your battery isn't in the original area, if i tried this setup, would i have to make any major mods to my battery placement or will it fit just fine in the same place?
Car 1: 1997 BMW 528i
Car 2: 1994 Accord Sedan EX
Car 3: 1987 Legend Coupe
iTrader Score: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by legend89chopped
One 90 degree silicone elbow(2.75")-$20.00
One 90 degree bend aluminum intake pipe(2.75")-$15.00
One cone filter-$25.00
That sound! - Priceless
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeo
your just sucking in hot air with the cai u have but it looks sweet
he is correct, you are doing not much better than the filter straight on the intake like the "noob" wanted to do. CAI needs to come from near the ground, where it is MUCH cooler than under the hood. and with a battery relocation, it makes the CAI much easier and efficient, i dont know why you didnt go the extra 2 in (if even) and down the hole.
thats a pretty reassuring article, except i wonder if the results of them 'dunking' the filter during the dyno were a bit unreal because of the extreme length and height of the intake setup. i mean, its not like that would ever happen to anyone driving in the real world (WOT with filter completely submerged) but the fact it still sucked water over 18inches straight up the tube.....
thats great dont get me wrong, but what about those of us without 12 feet of intake? (their test intake has at least 3 feet of straight vertical pipe that filled halfway) anyway id still buy and use one whenever i go full cold air but id make damn sure theres AT LEAST 18 inches of intake in front of that valve for my peace of mind.
EDIT: going back to the first post with the temp readings (very cool info, i cant believe the difference in idle temps!) if someone with a bit more knowledge than i has the actual equation for how dense air is at certain temps, it would help figure out which particular setup actually gets the most oxygen (although it looks almost certain its the cold air) it would be nice to get down to specifics.
__________________ www.myspace.com/thebestbryan BHG free since 2003
95 L coupe 4AT in cashmere silver
60a urethane mounts
FL tie bars (newly installed)
sr5guy stage III ecu
GB Xdrilled/slotted front n rear
rebuilt top end (~20k on it so far)
weapon r + cold air extension
5wire 4awg ground kit
Car 1: 89 Legend Convertible
Car 2: 93 Legend LS 6-Speed
Car 3: 89 Parts Coupe
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Yeah, I would have done the rest of the CAI if I were going n/a, but I'm boosting, and this is temporary. You're gonna S#!T when this is done. And I hardly think I'm suckin' in hot air. There's a lot of ventilation under my hood with the mods I've done to the front end.
There's gonna be a big air-to-water intercooler in that battery area, and that's why it's gone to the trunk. Pretty sure you can do one like this without moving it.
Here's a better pic so you can see where the filter sits underneath.
Car 1: 89 Legend Convertible
Car 2: 93 Legend LS 6-Speed
Car 3: 89 Parts Coupe
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
don't drive it much - so no. Like I said, it's temporary. The turbo is gonna be in within the next 3 weeks I'd say. It's shipping as of last nite, and I'm ordering the powertrain electronics from SDS next week. Ya'll watch out for a kick-a$$ turbo D.I.Y. posted pretty soon.
Car 1: 2004 Nighthawk RL
Car 2: 2005 Nighthawk TL
Car 3: 2002 525i Sport Wag
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I have had the flu for a couple days, so I've crawled all over this blessed site...and now I'm going to stop lurking and suggest a few things.
PVC is really durable, and I've seen it closer to a turbo manifold than I ever would have imagined and it surviving. Plus who cares about noxious fumes, let the engine have 'em...maybe it's like nitrous...nox...nos... ok terrible joke.
Seriously though, I'd wrap some heat shielding around those pipes just for fun, I'd expect those rubber connectors would fail from combined heat long before the PVC began to decompose... I usually used high-temp aluminum paint from the auto parts store whenever I found myself using PVC. It looks better, like real metal. It rejects some of the heat being reflective and actually a metal based coating. It makes it easier to spot areas where the piping is rubbing a part of the body/motor.
Ok now I'm going back to trolling in the sections where I belong.
Car 1: '87L, 5 speed Sedan
Car 2: '71 Datsun PL521
Car 3: '03 Infiniti I35
iTrader Score: 14 reviews
Lol Ive actually gotten away with telling some ricer kids that its "body color matched custom intake piping" I dont think they had any idea what PVC even is...
Anyhow, yeah I've had headers and underhood temp measurements since November and the hottest its EVER gotten under my hood was 154* F...
Heat is definitely not an issue...
Btw, that is one HOT RL man!!!
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