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| Engine & Performance Modifications Discuss Engine and performance modifications to make your G1 outrun all the rest! |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 374
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Yeh i know this but i havent found anybody that makes them at the same price as a standard set and that are quiet cheap for a standard set. It would cost me about 2k here just for the pistons instead of for pistons, rods and cams. I havent been able to do any work on the c20at for a month as i have been on a couple of short holidays and the only day i had a chance it was 43 degrees so it was way to hot in the shed. So far i have the wiring loome learly off the c27 and have the turbo except for 1 bolt removed to get at the wiring under it. Its prity amazing how much of the support wiring that isnt connected the the computer is different. Like all the wiring to the startermotor and that area is completely different and will have to be rewired completely not just swaped over. On the bright side my car fund is looking better and better
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 405
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A local machine shop quoted me $1200 for forged pistons, bigger set of rods, and a nitrate treatment for the crank, but I'm not even doing internals this year, I don't think.
You also mentioned in another thread you were looking for a GT3076 or 71 turbo. I ended up getting the 76R, and I couldn't find a new one for less than $1149 US. Came with polished housing, though, and my choice out of 3 turbine housing a/r sizes.
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 374
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I want the 76 I found a new 1 for 600 with a 2 year warranty but it wasnt a garret. so i decided i would wait till i have the c20at up and running before i worried about it. was the 1200 including pins and pin fitting. Also how much less do you think they would do it without the crank as i have to get that done over here as postage would be way to much
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 405
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Yeah, the price included pins, bolts, and bearings all the way to the crank journals. Basically the whole bottom end. I don't know how much the nitrate treatment was separately, but I'll find out.
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#26 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 374
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No but it is an advantage and the 3076 should be fine at 340 hp which is my aim and should take me higher if i want. Not saying i wont get something else il take wat ever comes at the right price
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#27 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 405
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Yeah the 3076 seemed best. With a small exhaust housing, it'll spool real quick, but you can put one on as big as 1.06 a/r, and have as much hp as you think that engine could handle. That's why I got it. It's good for now with lower boost on a stock build, and later on I can just switch housings and tune for high revving.
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#28 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 405
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And the pistons I got quoted are a stock shaped head, just made with lighter alloy and more meat for strength. I'm using tapered rings to lower the compression, because it doesn't have to come down much.
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#30 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I assume you are talking about compression ratio. Do not go down to 8. You gain very little while losing a lot. 9 is the recommended number for any seriously modified street car. 8 and you will lose a lot of off boost torque. You can safely boost to high numbers ie over 20psi safely at 9:1. Of course over 9:1 and you may start to run into trouble.
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