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Engine & Performance Modifications Discuss Engine and performance modifications to make your G1 outrun all the rest!


       

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Old 07-29-05, 11:03 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Car 1: Acura, Legend G1, composite blueprinted2.7/2.5, yea you heard me.ask-blue you might get. white&gold
Car 2: 1993 camaro z28 LT4



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Cool good ideas though some sink than float speaking from strip exp.

couldnt agree more. nothing spells disaster like blowing your trans because of over boosting a 125 shot at the track with no flatbed in sight . though i never had to rebuild my auto(until now) though i only have raced it a few times, its strictly for luxury , and my manual had 3 rebuilds under its belt though because of syncros failing over and over and over and the fork 4 times as well, as well as the slave soilenoid 2 times, and the line bursting once. from 1st to 2 and 2 to 3rd. tho for the auto i found a rebuild kit for 125.00(ASE for auto trans so i save money) on this site comp to the 1700 huns x3 i had to spend on that stricken manuel though stronger.(working on that cert now for sure). but the auto did slip under only like 3 hard races even with a oversized trans cooler. . any ideas on where to get a kevlar band for the trans? or perhaps a shift kit? or a stall torque conv, id rather buy one than build one-

------My Mods to Acura's Model "T"

2.7 block bored /.60 over/re sleeved for NOS applications(new update)
2.5 heads(believe it or not more compression, think about this now the valves arent different its just the bore)
deckplates, line honed, clearanced, decked, & squared. It then had new magnetic freeze plugs, TOGA HP cam bearings. Then the rotating assembly was professionally balanced, blueprinted, and assembled.

The top quality parts and time that went into the build are as follows:
[Under the Hood]
-Sub Zero /shot ping-the block for durability (hardens block and corrects fatigue)
-New Crankshaft
-Forged H-beam rods w/ARP custom bolts
-TOGA Forged pistons .60 over
-4 bolt billet main caps (center 3) re-drill
-ARP custom main studs
-TOGA HP over rev dual relay main and Rod bearings
-TOGA HP over rev dual relay Cam bearings
-TOGA HP Heavy Duty Oil Pump (no oil deprivation from high rev)true definate
-Magnetic Freeze plugs
-Total Seal Plasma Moly rings(no comp loss)-for anyone wanting some easy horse look into this.
(decking & squaring block with deckplates, line boring, balancing, clearancing)
Professional blueprinting/assembly of the shortblock better than factory!

----[Outside the Internal Engine]
-MagnaFlow dual exhaust
-Custom chopped headers into classic mustang "H" pipe design- true dual exhaust(the pipes might be small and welded together in some spots-not fed together until H then back to dual- but there aint no lawnmower sounds here people ask if i have a 305cid..(chevy 5.0) -NOPE! ) (also i recommend a mandrel bend, the oldschool crimp restricts and baffles flow.)
-AEM cold air intake(my weapon r was quiet)
-NGK Iridium plugs
-11mm wires i cust and made at my buddies shop
-MSD Ignition Coil
-MSD Ignition 6AL (yea if you get a voltometer you can easily install this, so what if its not listed)-my vid will be up soon from the strip as well as instructions you just have to have wires on your distributer that arent color faded.

---[the body]
well believe it or not but a 92 accord body kit will fit(dimensions are not diff for rear though front is tricky(think the g1 frame went to this honda, get back to me)
-Blackwidow Full Bodykit
-my spoiler was stolen but i had a carbon fiber one from jegs. oh well theres over 300 down the drain.
-working on shaving the handles and app keyless entry

[inside]
=the dash=
-PCP White/12 glow gauges
-Chrome Bezel Backround

=cabin=
-Comp Tach w rev limiter
-Comp Batt Gauge
-Comp Oil gauge
-L.E.D. nav bulbes all around from stock glass(saves power, no reason)
-Aiwa CDC-X407
-Kenwood 250w 6 1/2 door
-kenwood 6/9 250w rear
-Kenwood 4 channel amp 1000w
-Phaser II Radar Jammer
-Cobra detector

[the trunk]
-Rockford Fosgate 12'sx2 1200w tog
-Rockford Fosgate 800w amp(too many rattles)

[RIMS]
-Konig Rush 17's
-General xp2000 215

[Suspension]
-so far just left alone, the suspension was brand new macpherson struts and all around the prev owner was a doctor so he kept it in top shape, all the bushings were a year old too, and i didnt see any need for a change just yet. there was no scraping or sitting, and i dont like fiberglassing, also liked the fact i could still jack my car like usual. But my Camaro SS was calling for a rod and a rebuild so this will have to wait.


-- hey if theres any question on my horsepower im not sure, but i can burn alive camaro and mustang v-6's (not to mention quite a few older v-8's) and i can moderatly hang with my friend laparries mod pontiac GTP. my quarter mile time is 14.06. good for a n/a 86' with 4 g's in the motor. kinda wanted more. oh well it's finally kinda from hell now.
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Old 08-01-05, 02:37 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by experiMENTALacuramodelT

---[the body]
well believe it or not but a 92 accord body kit will fit(dimensions are not diff for rear though front is tricky(think the g1 frame went to this honda, get back to me)
-Blackwidow Full Bodykit
-my spoiler was stolen but i had a carbon fiber one from jegs. oh well theres over 300 down the drain.
-working on shaving the handles and app keyless entry
Well welcome to the forum, and You should get that vid up soon. I also put the black widow from a 92 accord on my sedan
and it worked out well with the car (my only complaint was that I had to use a fiberglass kit to get it to work). Everything you have done sounds good and If I was you I would put a 5-speed instead of keeping that auto. I switch from an auto to 5-speed and you could really feel the power of the motor much better and I had alot less tranny problems.
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Old 09-04-05, 04:02 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I put 93 in all my cars...It matters, try a tank, and tell me you don't feel the difference...Keeps it cleaner, and runs more efficient.

IT calls for 86 and above...I agree...86 would be fine...but if you want to put the best in your car, why not spend the extra 20cents a gallon??

I experience little minor things if I use 86 octane...but that could be because I always use 93...and I tried using the regular...poor starts, rough idle....intermittent starts...this are cars that request 86 and above...I have a GS400, calls for premium, I had a Z28, calls for premium...It makes a difference, don't knock it till you try it...

Give it 2-3 tank fulls, and go back, you'll notice the difference...
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Old 10-01-05, 06:00 PM   #64 (permalink)
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hey, where can i find a jdm engine? please don't say ebay, cause all i find there are c20's.
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Old 10-01-05, 08:53 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yom's legend
hey, where can i find a jdm engine? please don't say ebay, cause all i find there are c20's.
1

2

3

That was with a quick search, there are a lot of them on ebay.
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Old 10-01-05, 09:11 PM   #66 (permalink)
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thanks for those
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Old 10-01-05, 10:31 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
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thanks for those

No problem, there pretty resonably priced to.
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Old 10-02-05, 04:47 PM   #68 (permalink)
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yeah they are compared to other jdm honda engines
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Old 10-16-05, 04:19 AM   #69 (permalink)
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if 93 makes your car run better than somthing is wrong with it, engine temp too hot, timing advanced ect.. the higher the octane the harder it is for the fuel to burn. the only time you need higher octane is if the heat of the combustion chamber alone is hot enough to light the fuel so it burns before the spark happens and then it causes knocking and pinging and rare occasions backfiring. so if you need higher octane fuel then your car is getting too hot
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[b][color="Red"]My legend has been sold!
New car...
Black 5spd 93 integra GS hatch back
MP3/CD player
100w (500 RMS) profile amp
100w (600 RMS) Dual 12's bandpass
4 280w Pioneers
Red calipers
Factory alloy rims
STILL NO FACTORY CUP HOLDER!!!!!
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Old 01-04-06, 12:40 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarettcancerman
if 93 makes your car run better than somthing is wrong with it, engine temp too hot, timing advanced ect.. the higher the octane the harder it is for the fuel to burn. the only time you need higher octane is if the heat of the combustion chamber alone is hot enough to light the fuel so it burns before the spark happens and then it causes knocking and pinging and rare occasions backfiring. so if you need higher octane fuel then your car is getting too hot
my manual states that the ecu is programmed for 91 octane. warns that pinging will occur with anything less. i really notice a difference between 87 and 91 too... night and day... 94 octane doesnt feel any better though.
my car is a 1990 canadian car... ive heard other people quoting there manual at 86-87 octane but not mine.
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Old 01-15-06, 03:08 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cigarettcancerman
if 93 makes your car run better than somthing is wrong with it, engine temp too hot, timing advanced ect.. the higher the octane the harder it is for the fuel to burn. the only time you need higher octane is if the heat of the combustion chamber alone is hot enough to light the fuel so it burns before the spark happens and then it causes knocking and pinging and rare occasions backfiring. so if you need higher octane fuel then your car is getting too hot

STOP TALKING WHEN YOU KNOW NOT OF WHAT YOU ARE SPEAKING!

your pointless babling all the time is getting to me, you are wrong again!
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Old 04-14-06, 06:00 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Or you can do your own head gasket job

Look for my ebook on the head gasket job on ebay. Search for samscalc or head gasket acura legend. I did it for under $500.
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Old 05-11-06, 09:03 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Whats the kickdown cable and how do you tighten it?

PS my gas light works lol
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Old 05-18-06, 12:01 AM   #74 (permalink)
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merry christmas
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Old 05-18-06, 07:46 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyros88legendcoupe
-ALB light come on check the brake fluid ( both of them) same for brake light.
Both of mine are on.....Just add Honda Brake fluid and Ill be fine? (It would make sense if the douches at the shop didnt add more after doing my pads lol)

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