2.7legend

i was thinking about getting a blaster 2 coil.
i know it helped my 2bbl accord alot.
i figured it will mostly help this car.

but would the car accept this, i mean i have'nt seen anyone really do this (and yes i searched).

so how would i go about hooking this thing up??
and whould it make a difference on this car??

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1994 nissan maxima SE

 

legend_fan27

alright man this is a complicated one..me and my automotive teacher are figuring a way because hes been workin on cars since he was 6 and knows basically everything now...1)we have dual coil ignition...2) one of our wires run through the ignitor..one to the distributor...and one that gets ground out to a noise cap or some screwwy deal...3) our fuel system sucks...one of our wires runs back through the fuel pump or something....me and my auto teacher are figuring a way to wire this into our stick ignition and this is a bitch...but when i get through with it i will be sure to tell the secret...hell ill make a page about it get it stickied to here hopefully for those wanting to put this on(one of them being me!) unless you are a specialist in ignition systems please share your secret about this......but really the best bet is to hook a complete msd system up

2.7legend

huh...a dual coil set-up??
then why is the spark system on our cars weak?

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1994 nissan maxima SE

legend_fan27

i relly am not sure all i know is we have weak spark and dual coil ignition and its complicated lol

Edit:the coil is DUAL TRERMINAL not DUAL COIL! sorry

2.7legend

man i'm glad i did'nt get the coil.
hopefully someone knows.

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1994 nissan maxima SE

2.7legend

bump^^^^^^^^^

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1994 nissan maxima SE

legend_fan27

it is possible to put an msd ignition system.if you go to cardomain and the GoldRush legend http://www.cardomain.com/ride/334582/4 he has an msd 6al system on the firewall.still pondering on how to hook itup

2.7legend

i just have the coil....not the msd6al.
thats a whole different system.

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1994 nissan maxima SE

ianm12

I put an MSD 6AL(If I remember correct), and MSD Blaster SS coil and some nice 10mm racing wires in my car along with an intake. It took some thinking and some wiring diagrams, but it works amazingly. I was getting 20 mpg and now I get 25 average. Throttle response is bette too. You pretty much have to remove the old coil and splice some wires because the stock setup is different. I could probably help if anyone wants it. It was totally worth it.

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Agent-Smith

Well in the Service Manual diagram it shows a Black/yellow wire that comes from the ignition switch to the coil so that would be the positive lead, then there are two different blue wires, One goes to the tachometer and the other goes to the igniter. Now I don't think the blue going to the igniter would be the ground but who knows, I don't have time to figure it out at the moment.

roostonu

The coil needs 2 things to work. B+ from the ignition switch and on the other side is the signal from the ignitor. That signal from the ignitor is the ground side of the coil and the ignitor switchs the power on and off to the coil to produce spark. The spark does not come from the wires feeding the coil. There is a primary and secondary side of a coil. The power from the ignition switch goes through the primary side of the coil and the circuit is completed through the negative side of the coil and to the ignitor. Every time a spark is needed the ignitor switches the power off for a split second which collapses the magnetic field across the secondary coil windings inside the coil which naturaly produces a spike of high voltage which jumps out of the coil tower. OE and MSD coils should operate on the same principle, the only difference may be the required voltage supplied to the B+ side of the coil. Most stock coils operate off 12 volts only during starting and then after it starts they operate off 8-9 volts. The MSD may require 12v but the instructions will tell you if that is needed. If the coil requires 12v you will have to figure out how to bypass the balast resistor that supplys the regulated voltage to the coil. I wouldn't worry too much about that because if I recall, only the drag race coils that are designed to run for short periods operate off the full 12v all the time.

The reason the blue wire is shown going to the tach is because ignitor signal is used by the tach to calculate rpm.

DISCLAIMER: I don't have the car or coil or wiring diagram infront of me but if my memory serves correctly, it should be a pretty straight forward swap.

P.S. The 6A and other systems should work as well because they take there signal from the same ignitor signal and use that to provide there own signal to the negative side of the coil. Although I don't know how well the engine management would respond to the different ignition system.

1_Hot_Legend_LS

The Blk/yel wire is the positive from the ignition switch, the Blu wire right next to it goes to the tach and the blue wire on it's own plug goes to the ignitor. The one going to the ignitor is the ground.

So hook it up like a normal coil using the blk/yel as the positive and the blu wire that is alone as the negative and just tap the second blue wire to the negative side also.

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Thank You,

L. Downes
O-Town Legends C.C.
Winter Haven, FL

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murderotica

Again with the ancient threadz? =[ Sort by date, pls.

At least you answered some questions though haha.

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