Muffo

Well turbo lag isnt really a problem untill u get into big turbos and big boost. And a turbo on average spends 70 percent of its life on low to no boost there for not costing you fuel. a supercharger on the otherhand runs boost constantly putting your fuel consumption up. also it takes power away from the engine to run it which isnt a problem with the turbo. the only place i would really go a supercharger over a turbo is in big horsepower drag cars where you want instant boost. not on a street car. even with a bit of turbo lag this isnt so bad on the street

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legendturbo

If you have lag then you are in the wrong gear. That skyline intercooler would work nicely. I doubt you will find one but if you did come across the split around style one I was talking of, that would be even better. Any bar and plate intercooler will do fine. Minimum core dimensions of 550x70x250 will provide more than enough cooling. Bigger is not usually worse since it only takes the smallest fraction of a second to fill a bigger core as opposed to a small one.

Make your IC piping to the intercooler the same size as the turbo outlet ie probably 2". Make the pipine from the IC to the throttle body the size of the throttle body. You probably want a NA manifold and TB hence around 2.5" or so.

You of course know that the intercooler should go in front of everything else- engine radiator, ac rad etc.

Muffo

Yeh i know that much and i will set the intercooler up for the second motor not the 2 litre. hence i will not go to small. and i have figured out that the end tank design is fairly important as no to creat pressure drop. a lot of websites seem to think tube and fin is a much better design for motors that aren't putting out huge horsepower. How hard do you think it would be to turn the turbo 180 degrees

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legendturbo

The honda one- might be easy or impossible depending on how they designed it. Any other turbo is very easy. Don't worry too much about pressure drop. If the core and IN OUTs of the end tanks are large enough then it will not matter. Remember no pressure drop means the air is travelling straight through with no resistance = crap all time in intercooler = poor cooling. 1-3psi pressure drop is not an issue.

The turbo is called a t3/t4 because it is a hybrid of 2 different types. t3 is the flange design. I guess 50% of turbos use a t3 flange design so you do not have to use a t3/t4 at all. Many many aftermarket turbos are t3, ie garrett, turbonetics etc. You will not have trouble finding one to suit but yes a t3/t4 would suit well. It is an older design. Maybe a garrett gt3078r ball bearing would be best if you have the money.

I can have you one cut but I have only done a draft not actual measurements. It would probably cost $70 to cut (I'm guessing) but I would have to put a few hours into it to ensure it is correct first. + side is shipping would be $10-15.

Muffo

yeh im aware it is the t3 flange. why i ask about this spacificly is i have seen a lot of reco t3/t4s around and if i get a reco 1 or a good secondhand 1 it will work out a lot cheaper and seen as im thinking of getting it on the c20 there is probably not much point spending a lot on a turbo for a fairly stock motor. if i got a new turbo fairly soon then i wont have to do as much rewiring and i wouldnt have to change my vac box

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legendturbo

Yes t3/t4 will suit fine- 50 to 57 trim. Get a reconditioned one by garrett rather than a cheap chinese one. You can get new chinese ones which are of high quality for very cheap but you have to be very careful to end up with a good one. It will suit both engines fine, obviously the boost threshold will be lower for the 2.7. Peak hp will be the same. The 2.7 will produce much more low and mid range torque.

Try and get a ball bearing one but journal bearings are completely fine and almost no performance difference. I wouldn't even bother running the honda turbo personally.

Muffo

well i wont run it any longer that i have to then i will mount it on my wall. wow senn i just spent the last few hours reading as much as i can on it i actually know exactly what your talking about and this is why im doing this build. I did think about getting a new chinese1 and some can be very good but how am i ment to tell untill after i buy it and bolt it up to find out if its any good.

baring in mind i would like to take this to street legal drags and im not so worried about low end boost on the street wouldnt it be better to go a bit higher trim. it will loose a lot of low end on hte 2.7 but then i wont hit boost to early on the 2.7 and will have more top end. please correct me if i have anything wrong

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legendturbo

Inspect it, casting quality, no play in the turbo shaft, look that the shaft has had material removed to properly balance it. Nice smooth turning of the shaft. Good quality threads and machining. Its normally pretty obvious when it is a rip off version. It will scream bad quality if you inspect it closely.

No higher trim will result in more air flow but it will distort the balance between the compressor and the turbine and you might get compressor surge. You would want to move to larger housings after about 57 trim which will mean an overall bigger turbo.

Muffo

yeh i would be confident if i could inspect it but many sold over the net i probably wouldnt. might be better to stick to a decent brand if i can find the cash

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Muffo

My head hurts. i hate wires. Honda just hade to make things difficult. Iv spent most of the afternoon on it just looking at what i have to do when i finally got to doing it i have most of the main harness off and it is almost the same. some of the sets of wires around the starter motor are quiet a bit different but i will tackle the easy stuff first. will have to take the turbo and a lot of the inlet off to get to the wiring. The 2 sensors that come from the headers on the 2.7 are they just temp sensors? if so can i just buypass them and not hook the wires up because they arent on the c20.

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legendturbo

I thought they were O2 sensors. The JDM has only one. Its really hard getting to all the wires down by the tranny underneath the manifold. Make sure you clean them up and reinsulate them properly if they are not looking too good. Mine were terrible.

It is hard buying a turbo over the internet but as long as you ask all possible questions and pay by paypal you should be safe if they do send you rubbish.

sam o nela

No the C20 had at least one o2 sensor that I could see....brb with the pic for you

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sam o nela

Here you go:



I dont see why it'd be a different part number either....but better check to be sure...

EDIT:

An afterthought...did you do the Timing belt and water pump too? I know that this thing has already cost much more than you planned, but these two items are very important

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<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
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Muffo

Ok yeh there is the 1 on the c20 and 2 on the c27 do u think i will run into trouble if i just connect the front 1 and cap the wire for the back 1. I will deffinately do the timing belt and water pump and replace most of the hoses on the motor and anything else that doesnt look up to scratch. once i hace it wired up i will do this. who knows how long that will be hopefully within about a month

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sam o nela

It looks to me like that o2 sensor is the only one. I would imagine that you could find its pins on the ECU and wire it in directly...are you using a c20 ecu (sorry I honestly forgot)?

If so, it should be no problem....if you are running the c27 ecu....problem....


Its going to be looking for two o2 sensors and will throw you a CEL eventually when one is not detected...did you guys use EGR down there too?

Does that C20 even have an EGR Valve?

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<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>