Muffo

yes im using the c20at ecu i already have it. we had EGR and no i dont think it has it. When you throw a o2 code it does it tell you if its front or back. I thort it only tells you its the o2 sensor not which 1 if so it will be fine because the 2 wires will go to 1 pin if not i will have to trace which pin is which and possibly move 1.

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Muffo

Well im finally back to work and have made GREAT progress today. I removed the turbo, part of the dump pipe and part of the intake to get access to the wiring. I didnt know that there was a cat in the dump pipe. I have completely removed and labeled the loom from the N/A motor and partly removed the cut loom from the turbo motor I have cross referanced all of the connections and they are all the same on both looms. Some are in different places so i will have to shorten some wires and lengthen some others but it is a lot more strait foward than i first thought. The only problem i have found is one o2 sensor has 4 wires coming from it the other has 2 wires from it and the ones on the N/A motor only have 1 wire per sensor

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GrumpySteelMan

Actually you can usually find a cheap brand new chinese unit, put a garrett thrust bearing in it, and you're good to go. For some reason they all seem to use a stainless thrust bearing, and the garrett is brass. Throw a rebalance on it, just for good measure, and you're golden.

I'd probably choose the 50-trim myself of those two. I feel like the 'sweet spot' would be much easier to hit with that wheel, considering the displacements.

I wouldn't bother with a ballistic turbo, no reason here. The headaches of converting it over to a GT style flange just 'ain't worth it.' I wouldn't put the honda turbo back on it no matter what.

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3.5RL With/Without Nitrous Comparo Video

It shows if you give some folk a choice they make the wrong one, but the wrong choice is better than no choice at all.

Muffo

Still milling over what im going to do about the turbo but i should have the motor in and running without the turbo in a few weeks if everything goes as well as today. Im thinking i might still try and run the honda turbo just because im short on money as work hasnt been that good so it may be better to save for a computer and worry about the turbo when i build the 2.7

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Muffo

I made more progress today. The connections are nearly all the same. I finished removing the cut loom and took some pics comparing the 2. I got all the connections, the injectors and the fuel rail on the back bank wired up, as they were the same. the front bank and above the trany will be a bit harder i have to change some connections and i have come across a box under the distributer that i dont no what it is, thats not on the N/A motor so doesnt have wires in the loom for it and 2 wires that run back under the intake manifold from near the TB so i cant trace where they go. Iv come to the conclusion that both motors run the same injectors as they are identical

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legend89chopped

Make sure you have a "injector resistor" pack. I know the N/A motor uses one, and it's a silver steel case that mounts to the firewall. If you have a wiring diagram for your 2.0, the injector circuit should go right through one right before the injectors.

It'll be the difference between high resistance or low resistance injectors. Just to make sure. They won't work at all if you try to use high resistance injectors with a resistor pack, or low resistance injectors without one.

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----------------TURN HEADS----------------

sam o nela

It seems that the coil was attached to the front bank (it is attached right??)...therefore, I wonder if it is the igniter unit attached to the bottom of the distributor like on the 2.5s?

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<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
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Muffo

Yeh it is attached to the front bank but im going to wire the original 1 in as it means less alterations to the wiring loom. I should have taken a pic of it. I will put it in without it and see what happens. Yeh i will still have the injector resistor pack as when i plug all the loom back into the car it will still be wired in. I recon im doin alright seen as i've never tackeled anything electrical except for sound systems

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Muffo

And i forgot to mention when i took the fuel rails off the fuel smelt like super super super strong thinners or paint stripper or something like that any idea what it could be?

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sam o nela

Varnish....new gas will fix that right up....probably want to run two cycles of a good fuel system cleaner as well...

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<Monocolor Paint Scheme> <JDM Clear Corners> <Cleared out Rear Turn Signals>
<Acura Caliper Grill Emblem> <Independent Yellow Fog Mod> <15% Tint>
<Iggee Seat Covers> <EL Reverse Glow Gauges> <Dimmer Mod>
<Ford Taurus Cupholder Mod> <CC Tunk Light Mod> <Fut Short Throw Shifter>
<Custom CAI> <AEM Bypass Valve> <OBX Headers>
<Magnaflow High Flow Cat> <Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler>
<Drilled/Slotted Rotors> <Painted Calipers> <Axxis Metal Master Pads>

Muffo

Well i got the wiring almost fininshed and all the injectors back in. I only have a couple of problems maybe big maybe not. the first is the distributer is controlled by 3 wires instead of 2. there are 2 wires the same and one goes to a small box on the side of the distributer, no idea what its for i might just have to wire it up with the 2 wires and see what happens. the second is there is a set of wires to the right of the TB as you look at it from above the atou trans that go in under the intake manifold. There is no connection for thin on the wiring loom so it is yo a sensor that isnt on the N/A motor and i cant trace where it goes. the third is the O2 sensors i think i may try and use the original ones and see what happens.

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Muffo

Well I got almost everything completed to get it running N/A today. I marked everything to go into the car all i have left to do is get some new hoses and bolt it in. then il worry about getting the turbo running. Now i have to try and find a turbo vac box or take the car to someone who can get it running on the original one as its out of my league

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Muffo

Just an update on why the no progress. I cant find a vac box anywhere so i have decided to wait a little longer and put it in with an aftermarket ecu. Im still working out some details on what exactly i need to order but it shouldnt be too far away

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Muffo

Well I think i have made up my mind to go with a megasquirt ecu. here is a list that i have compiled so far on what i think i will need to do it and some prices.
Ecu 415.00
Wiring harness 65.00
Computer cable 5.50
3 Bar MAP sensor 65.00
GM 3 Bar MAP Sensor 6" Pigtail* 11.50
GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail* 22.25
3/8" NPT Aluminum Weld-On Bung for IAT Sensor 9.00
Innovate LC-1 Digital Wideband Controller with Sensor* 199.00
450cc injectors
MSD 6al
MSD 2 step rev limiter
Plus i have a laptop on its way already that will be dedicated to running the car.
If anyone has anything to add to my list go ahead

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jago

you should be running in no time at all with MS, i used it on my v8 a few years back with no issues. just remember to get her starting and idling befor you fit the o2 sensor, i know that sounds silly, however if your way out with your fueling you could dammage the sensor.

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1990 Rover 827Si (honda c27a1) -timming advanced (DIY), Decat(diy), 2.5" exhaust(diy), direct cold air feed(diy), EBC yellow stuff front pads, Lowered 1" on Pi springs, 16" speedline alloys, Recaro 1/2 leather seats front and rear, carbonfibre covered dashboard,
nitrous (223hp @ 5673 and 215lbs @ 4829 - 22oct 2007)