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| Engine & Performance Modifications Discuss Engine and performance modifications to make your G1 outrun all the rest! |
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#121 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 444
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This will be my biggest problem of the whole build. for the rest i just have to pull apart the looms and retrace all the wires and re wrap the looms. But for the extra wires that have to go to the computer i may be in trouble as i cant just chuck them anywhere I will have to add pins to the connection to the comp if the na 1 will plug in to the turbo comp. This is where it may get out of my league and cos me $$$
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#122 (permalink) |
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CAP CAP M* F*R!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 9,318
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Well if its only a few wires...it shouldnt be TOO big a deal...its when you have extra harnesses of bundles of unknown wires that will make you do that Scooby Doo thing...
![]() rhuh?? Hmmm...that sucks that they sold the Turbo model in Australia, yet the dealerships act like it never even existed ![]() Theres got to be a way to get a diagram or SOMETHING from SOMEWHERE....I wouldnt feel comfortable without that at least (personally) |
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#123 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I sort of worked out how to do it since I am going to put my engine in a civic if I don't sell it. You just need to sit down with the coupe manual. Trace what wires come from where in the engine and what each ecu pin is. I talked to toyota new zealand who said they had no technical knowledge on the car but they did point me to a tech book store. I don't know if that was just for a legend manual or if it was specifically the turbo one since it was in another city.
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#124 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,713
Car 1: 1989 Melbourne Blue Honda Legend Car 2: 1989 Honda Legend Car 3: 1989 Turbo Legend iTrader: (2)
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Quote:
The Turbo Legend was never sold in Australia or New Zealand. They were imported from Japan. For some reason a huge lump of rare turbo Legends, exclusive Legends and JDM coupes landed in NZ which would make me think that having quite a number of these JDM cars in NZ would mean the Honda techs need to know how to work on them. So perhaps our best bet is if ourNew Zealand counterpart i.e. legend turbo is able to ask the dealerships over there (if you haven't already) Also, Muffo, the engine number is found between the oil dipstick and the valve cover plate. It will read down ways. Keep us updated Muffo.
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Regards, Steve Love to Love the Legend Quote:
1991 Honda Legend Maroon - 230 000 Miles Pictures of My Legend |
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#125 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Sorry I already have. They do not really work on them. There are a large number of legends but there are only a handful of turbo's I guess 100-200 at the most a quite a few are in scrap yards. All the NA ones are the same as any other honda of the same era and so there is nothing special about working on them from honda's point of view.
The reason we have so many JDM's here as we do not have a car industry to protect and hence no tarriffs or import restrictions. My current car (celica gt4) is $17,000 in australia but I got it for $4500 here. Australians just like their holdens too much. |
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#126 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,713
Car 1: 1989 Melbourne Blue Honda Legend Car 2: 1989 Honda Legend Car 3: 1989 Turbo Legend iTrader: (2)
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Quote:
Dam Holdens. lol. Well that means you really would be lucky to find a manual for the turbo engine that isn't in Japanese.
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Regards, Steve Love to Love the Legend Quote:
1991 Honda Legend Maroon - 230 000 Miles Pictures of My Legend |
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#127 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 444
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Oh yeh i forgot to add i found the engine number. And i got the lower timing cover off as well. Im not exactly a auto elec but it doesnt take a genious to trace all the wires and replace them. what it takes is lots and lots and lots of time. But il know the motor like the back of my hand. Does any1 know what the factory boost setting is
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#128 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Exactly! most of it is just heaps and heaps of time and some common sense. Auto sparkys have experience and specialist tools but there is nothing especially difficult about it. Boost is 8.7psi stock standard. It was decided in mm of mercury which is why it is not a whole number ie 8.0 or 9.0 psi. I ran 9 in mine when it worked.
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#130 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Yes open deck. If you find my thread where I asked, I think that is what we came up with. I have yet to take the heads off although I was going to, just to look but ran out of time. I have no idea how big the injectors are so as to how much boost you could safely run; I imagine 10psi is alright, any more and you would want to hook it up to a wideband 02 sensor and/or monitor duty cycles.
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#131 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 444
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Yeh but it is a lot of stuffing around to change the boost of the wing turbo and much more thatn 10 the motor wont hold up. thats ok about the open deck it just came into my mind if it was closed it would be a better motor to modify than having to go to the cost of closing the 2.7
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#132 (permalink) |
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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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Damn I knew the boost was around 8-9 psi. Thats still good. My co-worker got a I think a 87' Toyota Supra, which it has the stock turbo, he said it was running between 7-8 psi. Thats weird how Japan imported the turbos in New Zealand. Too bad no one here in the USA has one. Unless they are hiding it and don't want to share their ride lol.
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#133 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Yeah you also have a car industry unfortunately which is why you didn't get anything awsome out of japan either.
I am fairly sure they are all open deck. Not many manufacturers use closed. Toyota does a lot. The engine will be fine at 10psi. It will probably be fine at 20psi. It all depends on your tune. Any detonation will eventually kill even the best built engine. You can reliably run quite high hp on many stock engines before running into problems if you know what you are doing. People get 500hp easily out of toyota 2.0L turbo stock block engines. The c20at will hardly be as well built from the factory as that but it should cope quite happily with a large turbo at low to moderate boost with good cooling and a decent tune and fuel system. |
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#134 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 444
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I really have my doughts from what i have read how much over 12 u could go without changing the head gaskets all the time. Is there a proper name for the process of closing the deck because im going to get some quotes
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#135 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Head gaskets blow because of a poor tune. The only other reasons for a healthy engine to blow HG's are excessively high boost ie 22+psi or just very high hp. Ill use the 2.0L toyota engine again- the early variants use paper head gaskets which do not blow with well over 400hp when properly set up.
You could get a company such as cometic to custom make you metal hg's. I would have no idea what the stock ones are made of. But remember metal hg's just move the first thing to blow up to rings instead. A lot easier to replace a hg than piston rings. Where did you get your 12psi info from? Is this c20at specific? All engines are different. I wouldn't doubt the c20at would blow hg's at 12 but only because it probably runs out of injector, or pump capacity etc. Don't know the name but some companies offer inserts for the block. Google subaru open deck to see the process they use since they do it all the time with the ej20t. I think you can also get it custom filled which you would have to do. I don't think it is worth it. Its not easy to blow your cylinders apart, or flex/crack the block. |
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