G2 Acura Legend Engine Damper Group Buy - Page 26

Sergio · 08-08-07, 01:04 PM

I had the engine damper installed yesterday and I hear a rattling sound above 1,500 RPM. I will spray some lubricant on it and check for a difference. I didn't want to bother my friend, since I was taking his time away from handling business at his shop, so I didn't get to have the poly bushing installed. But now that I've seen how it's done, perhaps when I have the tools, I can do it myself and take my time. I do feel a good difference with the damper on for sure; throttle response seems quick and solid. Love it.

EDIT: Just like lgnd mentioned, I sprayed some WD-40 on it today and no noise. Smooth as silk. Presto! A+++

Edify · 09-02-07, 02:32 PM

Hey guys, I haven't posted since I've been reading what everyone else has been saying about the rattle issue and just wanted to post up my situation. I've tried tightening all the bolts like Alpervich suggested but it really didn't change the rattle. Spraying WD-40/other high quality lubricants seemed to temporarily quieten it for a while but it would always come back. Worse when in D4 than in neutral. Gone totally after 1000rpm. I have the damper at the stock preload. Should tightening it up help or worsen this problem? Anyone else have any more ideas for a solution. Its really starting to bother me. :-(

Also: The rattle sound is coming from the area around where the damper attatches to the engine hook, not on the firewall. Confirmed by manually holding down the damper with someone in the car and the sound goes away, and then comes back when I stop putting pressure on damper(connection at engine hook).

-Ed

lgnd · 09-02-07, 06:03 PM

Mine is still silent after the lubricant spray treatment and the damper moves easily on the heim joint. My setting is 1 full turn stiffer.

Blackend · 09-02-07, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edify

Hey guys, I haven't posted since I've been reading what everyone else has been saying about the rattle issue and just wanted to post up my situation. I've tried tightening all the bolts like Alpervich suggested but it really didn't change the rattle. Spraying WD-40/other high quality lubricants seemed to temporarily quieten it for a while but it would always come back. Worse when in D4 than in neutral. Gone totally after 1000rpm. I have the damper at the stock preload. Should tightening it up help or worsen this problem? Anyone else have any more ideas for a solution. Its really starting to bother me. :-(

Also: The rattle sound is coming from the area around where the damper attatches to the engine hook, not on the firewall. Confirmed by manually holding down the damper with someone in the car and the sound goes away, and then comes back when I stop putting pressure on damper(connection at engine hook).

-Ed

Try flipping the damper around so that the adjustment end is towards the firewall. While the damper is off, loosen the smallest nut on the adjustment end and spin that heim joint out one full turn. That should put enough tension on the mounting bolts to get rid of the rattle and by flipping the damper around the vibrations transmitted to the cabin should be minimalized.

These are all things we learn when we bring a new part to market!

kotetu · 09-03-07, 12:27 PM

I wonder if having a broken rear transmission mount makes the vibrations worse. Most of us have them - mine was just filled with poly a couple of weeks ago so i am good now. I still need to borrow or buy a strap wrench to install these poly bushings in my damper, so I haven't installed it yet! XD

Alperovich · 09-03-07, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kotetu

I wonder if having a broken rear transmission mount makes the vibrations worse. Most of us have them - mine was just filled with poly a couple of weeks ago so i am good now. I still need to borrow or buy a strap wrench to install these poly bushings in my damper, so I haven't installed it yet! XD

see i thought differently.

all 3 of my mounts, rear, and 2 front. need to be replace. I have already filled the rear and 1 front, working on the front right on, and going to replace then soon. IMO the damper helped alot more when broken mounts, i can't wait until all my mounts are not broken.

I've also flipped my damper as brian suggested and have the poly bushings installed. engine vibrations are down to a min, but i never had any noise.

bl420 · 09-04-07, 01:50 AM

i think im going to try and find some nylon should washers.

Blackend · 09-04-07, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl420

i think im going to try and find some nylon should washers.

nylon shoulder washers? for in between the damper heim joint and the bracket?

bl420 · 09-04-07, 01:05 PM

the shoulder washer goes in the eyelet

something like that

they also use it for insulation of screws from circuit boards.

i figured this should keep the play between the bolt and the eyelet to a minimum.

Blackend · 09-04-07, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl420

the shoulder washer goes in the eyelet

something like that

they also use it for insulation of screws from circuit boards.

i figured this should keep the play between the bolt and the eyelet to a minimum.

Interesting idea...time to head over to Home Depot and check it out.

Infamous X · 09-04-07, 01:44 PM

blackend.. could u check ur PM box?

Blackend · 09-04-07, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infamous X

blackend.. could u check ur PM box?

I have nothing new from you, but if you're talking about the nuts you needed, I don't have any extras at this point. My suggestion would be to find a local hardware store and get a nylon locking nut that fits...should be 12mm and 14mm nuts.

bl420 · 09-04-07, 05:14 PM

blackend... any luck?

is the bolts that go through the eyelets M12?

im not sure if i'll be able to find shoulder washers for that small of a difference.

i was thinking of sizing it down to M10 nuts and bolts if it came to it.

Blackend · 09-04-07, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl420

blackend... any luck?

is the bolts that go through the eyelets M12?

im not sure if i'll be able to find shoulder washers for that small of a difference.

i was thinking of sizing it down to M10 nuts and bolts if it came to it.

I got nothing at Home Depot. I'm going to try and get over to this local hardware store where I've bought good bolts before and see if they have anything that will work. They close early so I might not make it over until this weekend.

I'm not sure about dropping down the bolt size...I'll ask the designers what they think about that and get back to you.

Edify · 09-29-07, 01:48 PM

Flipped the damper and tightened the preload and the sound is gone!!! Thx Blackend.

-Ed

08-08-07, 01:04 PM	#376 (permalink)
Sergio Legend Enthusiast Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San José, CA Posts: 841 Car 1: SOLD: 1995 Coupe LS 6-Speed Milano Red iTrader: (7)	I had the engine damper installed yesterday and I hear a rattling sound above 1,500 RPM. I will spray some lubricant on it and check for a difference. I didn't want to bother my friend, since I was taking his time away from handling business at his shop, so I didn't get to have the poly bushing installed. But now that I've seen how it's done, perhaps when I have the tools, I can do it myself and take my time. I do feel a good difference with the damper on for sure; throttle response seems quick and solid. Love it. EDIT: Just like lgnd mentioned, I sprayed some WD-40 on it today and no noise. Smooth as silk. Presto! A+++ Last edited by Sergio : 08-10-07 at 06:35 PM.

09-02-07, 02:32 PM	#377 (permalink)
Edify Just Another Guy Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 554 Car 1: '05 C6 Z51 Car 2: '91 Legend Coupe L Car 3: 96 Tahoe/2005 Civic iTrader: (2)	Hey guys, I haven't posted since I've been reading what everyone else has been saying about the rattle issue and just wanted to post up my situation. I've tried tightening all the bolts like Alpervich suggested but it really didn't change the rattle. Spraying WD-40/other high quality lubricants seemed to temporarily quieten it for a while but it would always come back. Worse when in D4 than in neutral. Gone totally after 1000rpm. I have the damper at the stock preload. Should tightening it up help or worsen this problem? Anyone else have any more ideas for a solution. Its really starting to bother me. :-( Also: The rattle sound is coming from the area around where the damper attatches to the engine hook, not on the firewall. Confirmed by manually holding down the damper with someone in the car and the sound goes away, and then comes back when I stop putting pressure on damper(connection at engine hook). -Ed __________________ Custom CAI - sr5guy stage II chip - EGR Block - TB Bypass - Blackend's Damper - Custom 2" Y Pipe - Magnaflow Cat - 2.5" B Pipe - Type II IM - Labrat Crank Pulley - NA1 NSX Rims - ME 6000k HID. 14.99 @ 94.12 before manifold, pulley, & rims. Though I've fallen to the Dark Side! 391whp/384wtq.

09-02-07, 06:03 PM	#378 (permalink)
lgnd EDM KA8 owner Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Budapest Hungary Posts: 715 Car 1: EDM KA8 '91 Car 2: EDM KA8 '91 RIP iTrader: (10)	Mine is still silent after the lubricant spray treatment and the damper moves easily on the heim joint. My setting is 1 full turn stiffer. __________________ www.honda-legend.hu For Sale: Custom ADDCO rear sway bar shoulder bolts

09-03-07, 12:27 PM	#380 (permalink)
kotetu we sanction torture Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 3,930 Car 1: 95 LS Coupe 6spd Car 2: 94 L Cpe 6spd - sold Car 3: 98 Prelude - sold iTrader: (13)	I wonder if having a broken rear transmission mount makes the vibrations worse. Most of us have them - mine was just filled with poly a couple of weeks ago so i am good now. I still need to borrow or buy a strap wrench to install these poly bushings in my damper, so I haven't installed it yet! XD __________________ Ron Paul's American Freedom Agenda Act would (among other things) restore habeas corpus, end legally sanctioned torture, and end warrantless spying on American citizens. Please tell your representatives to co-sponsor the American Freedom Agenda Act. (link)

09-04-07, 01:50 AM	#382 (permalink)
bl420 Dont Catch Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bogata, Lima Posts: 4,813 Car 1: 1991 Sedan iTrader: (16)	i think im going to try and find some nylon should washers. __________________ Anti Alpine Type-R Thread

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09-04-07, 01:05 PM	#384 (permalink)
bl420 Dont Catch Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bogata, Lima Posts: 4,813 Car 1: 1991 Sedan iTrader: (16)	the shoulder washer goes in the eyelet something like that they also use it for insulation of screws from circuit boards. i figured this should keep the play between the bolt and the eyelet to a minimum. __________________ Anti Alpine Type-R Thread

09-04-07, 01:44 PM	#386 (permalink)
Infamous X Una Leyenda Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: The Bronx, NY Posts: 746 Car 1: 95 Legend GS MAX iTrader: (11)	blackend.. could u check ur PM box? __________________ More Mods To Come?? JDM Projector Headlights

09-04-07, 05:14 PM	#388 (permalink)
bl420 Dont Catch Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bogata, Lima Posts: 4,813 Car 1: 1991 Sedan iTrader: (16)	blackend... any luck? is the bolts that go through the eyelets M12? im not sure if i'll be able to find shoulder washers for that small of a difference. i was thinking of sizing it down to M10 nuts and bolts if it came to it. __________________ Anti Alpine Type-R Thread

09-29-07, 01:48 PM	#390 (permalink)
Edify Just Another Guy Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 554 Car 1: '05 C6 Z51 Car 2: '91 Legend Coupe L Car 3: 96 Tahoe/2005 Civic iTrader: (2)	Flipped the damper and tightened the preload and the sound is gone!!! Thx Blackend. -Ed __________________ Custom CAI - sr5guy stage II chip - EGR Block - TB Bypass - Blackend's Damper - Custom 2" Y Pipe - Magnaflow Cat - 2.5" B Pipe - Type II IM - Labrat Crank Pulley - NA1 NSX Rims - ME 6000k HID. 14.99 @ 94.12 before manifold, pulley, & rims. Though I've fallen to the Dark Side! 391whp/384wtq.