Lol been there done that. First thing is stay calm. I know it's a PITA. There are about three back there if i'm not mistaken. You yakking about the one below the dipstick to the right or the ones to the left of ths dipstick behind theintake
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If your looking at in from the front its on the left side about 6 inches from the top of the dipstick. It comes.out of the engine and runs along the firewall and goes into some kind of coupler.
The first thing to do is remove the strut bar. iirc 4 - 10mm nuts, then you will need a long flat head screw driver. I also bought 16" needle nose pliers with different degree bends to help free the hoses. Do not use pliers on the firewall connections or heater control valve.
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They are almost impossible to get off without just cutting them off carefully. I cut them just past the connectors and then cut toward the connector, then cut very carefully so as to not scratch the metal connectors. Be very careful on the firewall side as the heater hoses go to the heater core and the fittings are very soft and will get crushed if you try to squeeze them with pliers.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ari_one
They are almost impossible to get off without just cutting them off carefully. I cut them just past the connectors and then cut toward the connector, then cut very carefully so as to not scratch the metal connectors. Be very careful on the firewall side as the heater hoses go to the heater core and the fittings are very soft and will get crushed if you try to squeeze them with pliers.
I agree with Arri_one.
The easiest thing to do is put a length wise slit in the hose using a razor blade utility knife at the end. Then, pry it off with a screwdriver. The slit will allow enough flex to get it off. If you keep the slit small enough and at the end, you may be able to cut that small portion off and re-use your hose.
I recommend replacing them. They aren't that expensive. You can order them from rock auto. Don't bother with your local Autozone or O'reilly, doubt they will have it.
Mines came off without cutting, when I said use needles nose pliers, it's to twist the hose to free it.
I was thinking the same lol. But the clamps are a huge pain. Slide the clamps off toward the center of the hose. Get some pliers to twist the hose side to side on the ends. It should slide right off. Its a tight spot. And be sure to clamp the hose back in place correctly and tighten the clamps tight if you buy new ones. I learned the hard way.
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Honestly the position of some of those hose clamps make me believe that they were installed before the motor went in the car. Some clamps I had to cut off with tin snips.
Car 1: 1993 Legend Coupe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGBOY
Honestly the position of some of those hose clamps make me believe that they were installed before the motor went in the car. Some clamps I had to cut off with tin snips.
You know, if they are the original hoses on there, they are going to be a bitch. They are SO closed to the damn firewall.
Is it really worth it to save hoses that cost about 5 bucks each?
Yea ive had to cut hoses before. Not on my leg tho. Makes it easier in some situations. When my hose went it had a pinhole leak and my temp started rising at like 1 am. Luckily I was by a gas station. The hole made it easy to find because of the steam. It was cold outside. And the makeshift hoses at parts stores wasn't cuttin it. Went to dealer and.paid like 8 bucks.
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my upper coolant hose is a little swollen...but car runs cool and smooth(no overheating) drove it up and down the west coast! also the longer i sit at a light the engine seems to shutter sometimes but no flux in idle!?!?wtf...shes so reliable i perform meticulous maintenance on her and hopefully preventative maintenance now...any advice???
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