I couldnt see an oil change DIY anywhere and I guess most people may know how to do this, but it may still be useful.
Tools needed: 17m socket wrench, Engine Oil, Oil filter wrench, Oil filter, Drain plug crush washer from your local dealer, Jack, Jackstands, Oil Drain tray and Lots of rags.
Firstly remove your oil filler cap:
Then get the car off the ground:
Locate the Oil Sump Drain plug:
And undo the plug to get:
Once the once you get that going, attack the oil filter:
Have a break now...and wait for all the oil to stop dripping.
Once all the oil has stopped dripping, put the drain plug back in with new washers which you can get at your local dealership. You have an aluminum sump, so tighten it by hand and then tighten using the socket wrench you used to take it off. Don't overtighten. I use 2 fingers to pull on the wrench for the final tightening and that should be enough. Officially you should tighten to 45Nm (4.5kg-m, 33lb-ft), so ideally use a torque wrench if you have one. Now start looking at your new filter:
Don't forget to remove the oil drain tray/can from under the car.
So now your car is back on the ground:
Sleeper Legend adds:
"I also add 4.5qts and then run the engine until it is fully hot. Let it sit 5 minutes and then check the dip stick. It should still need .5qts. Add what it needs and let it run until warm again and sit off for 5 minutes. Check the dip stick again and it should be right on the line. This cycles the oil through the engine and gives it a chance to settle before getting a reading. This gives you a more accurate oil level reading. "
So your new oil is all back in. You engine is feeling better. Put everything back as it was, i.e put on the oil filer cap, put the dipstick back, close the bonnet/hood.
Hope this helps people. Of course you will need to make sure you get the best oil you can. Fully synth is best.