Ok everyone, today is one of those days... Earlier I found this site because I was looking for an ignition switch problem that just happened to me earlier today. My Legend was working fine this morning and at lunch, but when I went to crank it after work the ignition started acting funny. basically the car wont turn any dash lights (batt., srs, etc. on) the on position but if I crank it all the way with the clutch off the dash comes on! if I push the clutch in the car starts, but when I let go of the key, off again!?? can you all help.
Ok everyone, today is one of those days... Earlier I found this site because I was looking for an ignition switch problem that just happened to me earlier today. My Legend was working fine this morning and at lunch, but when I went to crank it after work the ignition started acting funny. basically the car wont turn any dash lights (batt., srs, etc. on) the on position but if I crank it all the way with the clutch off the dash comes on! if I push the clutch in the car starts, but when I let go of the key, off again!?? can you all help.
That sounds like the electrical part of the ignition switch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HM91CPE
You do not have to replace the part of the ignition switch that is keyed. You only replace the electrical part that is held on the back by two screws.
The replacement procedure can be found in the Online Service Manual which is in this forum. Access the manual and go to page 23-86 for test and install procedures.
Go to the above URL: for Acura Carland, put in the correct car/model info and select combination switch. That will take you to a diagrahm with a number of switches. I believe that item 11 is what you want. Part number 351390-SP0-305. List for $65.85 & their price $52.68 (plus shipping). It is not called an "ignition switch", but the position and appearance looks right. Maybe someone can verify the part number. I no longer have the receipt for the one that I bought.
That sounds like the electrical part of the ignition switch.
A quick way to ensure it's the ign switch is to jumper +12v to the starter solenoid fuse terminal in the drivers kick panel. Assuming the ign key is in the ON position and the dash lights are illuminated, it should fire right up.
I noticed you advised checking the fuses under the hood Mike, but I just wanted to add that today I had an engine-will-rotate-but-will-not-start problem and it turned out to be the fuel pump fuse under the dash! Easily fixed, thank goodness..
I noticed you advised checking the fuses under the hood Mike, but I just wanted to add that today I had an engine-will-rotate-but-will-not-start problem and it turned out to be the fuel pump fuse under the dash! Easily fixed, thank goodness..
I noticed you advised checking the fuses under the hood Mike, but I just wanted to add that today I had an engine-will-rotate-but-will-not-start problem and it turned out to be the fuel pump fuse under the dash! Easily fixed, thank goodness..
I had that same problem too, only that it was after the car died on the highway (apparently it's not the same as a freeway) at 50 or so. Lucky it was in the morning when it happened
Sometimes my engine light is on more times than not. My car starts but when i get to piont B try 2 crank it up it might not start. I have to let it sit for few mins then it starts WTF.
I had that same problem too, only that it was after the car died on the highway (apparently it's not the same as a freeway) at 50 or so. Lucky it was in the morning when it happened
Sometimes my engine light is on more times than not. My car starts but when i get to piont B try 2 crank it up it might not start. I have to let it sit for few mins then it starts WTF.
In this page you can see that all coil packs are coneccted to fuse 25 or 26. with the yellow black cable. This connection is made in the connector at the located near the passenger side timing belt cover.
I have had troube with this connector (on a NSX but this is simular connector)
So how about a situation where the fuel pump fuse in the kick box has no juice going to it yet the fuse itself is fine. Is this a sure sign that the relay is at fault?
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