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| Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Emergency!!! Need Help Removing Screws on Rotors...
I need your help in removing the 2 screws that hold the front rotors....ASAP!
I am doing a front brake and rotor replacement right now. My Legend is in my garage in jackstands and I basically hit wall when it came to removing the scews. I don't have an impact wrench and I am having trouble removing those stupid ass screws - I almost srtipped one of them. Are there any other devices to use? If so, what are they and are they effective? How long are these screws? If I stripped, can the heads be melted/broken off to get them out. Can I find these screws at any local hardware store before I do this? Is it important that they are screwed back in with the rotor? I thought that the Caliper and Tire would do a good job of keeping the rotors in place. Tomorrow is Sunday and I need to take care of this job by Monday. I am expecting some cold ass-biting weather next week - the low: 0 degrees - the high: 15 degrees. Dosen't that sound like fun? Thanks - again! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I am looking for more options than what the 7th grader came up with. I am also asking specific questions about replacing the screws.
The Hanyes manual does not do a good job of identifying this process in great detail if something should go wrong. I am looking for help not for smart asses! Don't worry I am not offended... |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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First rule when working on a car is to have the right tool for the job. If that screw was put on with an impact driver, you are not going to be able to get it off without one. An impact driver can put up to 200 ft. lb. of torque. You can get a set at Sears. Hope that helps.
Truong |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: minnysoda
Posts: 262
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Yes, there are hand held impact drivers you hit with a hammer. You must get one, they are handy. I would recommend using a 20oz hammer.
If your screw isn't wrecked completely you could try a no. 2 phillips bit with an air impact wrench if you have an air compressor. Can you still use a bit in the screw? |
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#8 (permalink) |
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= )
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Option # 1: Hand Impact driver with a Philips # 3 bit (not a #2 bit)
Option # 2: If it's too stripped to use the hand impact driver, use an "easy-out" to get it off. Option # 3: If that doesn't work, drill the sucker out. It doesn't matter if you damage the face of the rotor since you are replacing them anyway. A pair of pliers (or vice grips, if necessary) can remove the remaining threaded portion of the screws after the rotors come off. You do not need to replace the screws with the new rotors because the wheels and lug nuts will hold them in place. But, if you're like me, replace them with new ones from your local Acura or Honda dealership at your convenience. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: minnysoda
Posts: 262
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I would drill before I would use an ez out. In fact, I would forget about the ez out all together and weld a nut to the screw and try turn it before I would use an ez out. Don't use ez out screw extractors!
Mike Last edited by Minnesota51 : 01-05-04 at 02:58 AM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,144
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I agree that the method to use on a stripped rotor screw is to drill it out. Enough will be left to remove the stud portion with a pair of vice-grip pliers. You need to use a hand impact driver or sacrifice a screwdriver prior to stripping the head of the screw. The screws are speciality. Procure from your local Acura dealer (next time order in advance with any other PM items from Acura of Augusta). Use anti-seize on all fasteners.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 154
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dude just use a "punch"..........looks like a chizzle with a sharp point and is medal ............using a hammer punch an engraved or indention mark on the left side of the screw, then angle down into that groove to make the screw go counter clockwise (unscrew), then lightly tap and it will start to turn. no impact wrech, no drilling........very easy...........i had to do it on mine. screw will be ruined but, go get another one
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I had the same problem with my rear rotors. I went to the auto part store and picked up a hand held impact screwdriver. It looks like a fat screw driver made completely of steel. I got mine for around $10. It works great. If you get the screws out and the disc does not come off you can thread them in the other hols to push the disk free. I would also recomend using some anti-sieze on the screws before you put them back in.
Later! Lee |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I got them with a good strong (I actually found the best one to be the ones with the replaceable bits because if you break it you'll have more bits to try) Flat Head screw driver...hammered it in real good...then took an adjustable wrench around the flat screwdriver end, and with both hands...one pushing in on the screwdriver ant the other hand on the adjustable wrench and turn to the left then...CLICK...off they go
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The X... |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I also THREW away all the screws. The screws is just to keep your rotors from wiggling when you remove your wheels, that's all, nothing more. The screws are NOT for centering, rotors are hubcentric, and they are not for holding the rotors down tight, it's the wheels job. They are just small insignificant things. I throw them away so I won't have this trouble next time. |
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