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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)


       

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Old 01-28-03, 03:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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darn. Jarrod is really good and if Larry says it is so, he knows what he speaks of. The next thing I might try is that GM top Cyl cleaner - pour a shot glass full down the intake side and see if overnight it opens it up. Most likely it will just soften the carbon from coke to like toothpaste and you can start it up and pour a another shot glass size down to wash it out or try some berrymans after it has been softened. Berrymans won't soften coke but it will wash it away when it is soft. Jeeps are notorious for building up coke on the valves. About 10 years ago I soaked some 1" pieces of coked up valve carbon off my jeep intakes in about 10 different brand cleaners and the GM stuff was the only one that softerned the coke up. It will make quite a smoke cloud when you go to drive off if you use much more than a shot glass or two. Normally it is used to free up stuck rings and is pulled in at 1000 - 1300 RPM through hose #21 right into the intake manifold but I don't think that way would help with the EGR situation. If you decide to have a dealer do it, Niello won't play games - they are really square with everyone. If you don't have access to compressed air to gently blow it out when done, you might get a small pony tank from Harbor Frieght for $20 - $29. It will hold like 5 gal of air at 125psi so that maybe enough to blow the carbon out after it is softened. Good luck. I have plenty of tools and will be home this weekend so you are welcome to do any of the work here. I also have compressed air. I am in Citrus Heights, about an hour from you. If you need parts, Niello is about 5 or 6 miles from here. Just drop me an email.
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Old 01-28-03, 03:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Steve, please shoot me your email address, I'm at sean@us.celestix.com. I have a few more questions that I'd like to take offline, I might even want to call you

I have a fairly complete set of tools in my garage, including a 5hp 25 gallon compressor, so air is not a problem. Thanks for the offer though.

I am going over to GM at lunch to pick up a few cans of Top Engine Cleaner. I will also go to Home Depot tonight and pick up a flexible drill bit that I can shove into the intake port.

I'll have to rig up a hose to actually get the engine cleaner into the back of the intake, it's really tight back there as you already know.

More to follow....I am confident that I'll get this sorted out without having to remove the intake!
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Old 02-01-03, 05:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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On a very sad day, I would like to report that my egr problem is solved. First, a thought for the families of Shuttle Crew STS107.


Total Cost: $7.50 for a can GM Top Engine Cleaner.

I rigged some tubing to get the cleaner into the back of the
intake at the egr port, followed by a light shot of compressed air. I then snaked a 12 gauge solid core wire, about 3' worth, into the egr port and broke through.

I reassembled, drove the car for about a 1/2 hour, then did the egr test. at 8" of vacuum the engine stumbled, then stalled---just like it's supposed to during this test.

I will re-smog the car on Monday or Tuesday.

Thanks everyone, especially Merlin and Wally, for all your help.

Regards,
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Old 02-01-03, 10:27 PM   #19 (permalink)
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glad to see that you got it fixed cheaply. how much time did you spend on it? i have neither the tools, time, or place to work on my car, so i had to have my mechanic take care of it. smog sh!t is a pain : )

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Old 02-03-03, 02:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Quote:
glad to see that you got it fixed cheaply. how much time did you spend on it?
Thanks Wally, me too. I spent a few hours last weekend, about three, plus two to three hours yesterday. I spent $7.50 for a can of GE Engine Top Clean, plus $0.40 for 4' of 12 ga. solid core wire from Home Depot.

Here's the real kicker:

I took the Legend to a local smog station right near my house yesterday afternoon, and the friggin guy takes 10 minutes to smog the car and he doesn't even check the EGR function!

Naturally I passed....at least it's not for nothing, I am now *very* familiar with the Gen 2 Legend EGR system

Oh well, at least I got to turn a few wrenches, something I haven't done very much of since selling my 500hp Mustang....

Regards,
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Old 04-01-03, 10:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Guys, this is such useful info. I hope I do not have this problem but I just smoged my car and had extremely high NOx levels. Would a clogged EGR valve cause this?

I also did the test with a stage II bayou chip and a catellytic converter that I havn't used for 1.5 years.

I'm going to do a re-test today after putting in the stock ECU (i figured (with the help of my legend brothers) the advanced timing and leaner A/F ration would radicaly change the NOx levels).

G
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Old 04-01-03, 10:43 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I think you're headed in the right direction....reinstall the stock computer first, that Bayou gear is a huge variable.
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Old 04-01-03, 12:31 PM   #23 (permalink)
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godfather - actually, before you change that ecu... when i had my 4runner smogged a couple of months ago, the mechanic told me something that makes a lot of sense. he asked me if i had changed anything about the exhaust system recently. he said that basically, when you change out any of the exhaust components (ex: catalytic convertor, muffler, headers, etc.) you disturb a bunch of the deposits that have been left in the tubing. by disturbing these, he said that you will get strange readings because those deposits are coming out along with the normal exhaust gasses. my advise would be to drive your car around for a couple of hundred miles to let the catalytic converter settle back into the system, and then have it retested. i honestly don't think that a modified ecu will cause higher than normal nox readings because it is actually helping the engine run more efficiently (and cleaner). hope this helps,

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Old 04-01-03, 12:46 PM   #24 (permalink)
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NOX is a combustion byproduct created by heat and compression. The nitrogen and oxygen combine. If one raises compression and/or temperature, more of it is produced. Sometimes in winter when it is very cold and the smog shop just starts the car and tests it too soon, the cat is still too cold to create the catalytic process so NOX would test high but so would HC. I drive the car and take it in hot before testing it. Generally, high NOX is a problem with either the CAT or EGR. To my knowledge, one does not get "deposits" of NOX that sit around to be disturbed. NOX exists in the gaseous state, not solid matter at ambient temps. If unleaded fuel was ever used in the system it will destroy the cat and oxygen sensors.

The EGR allows a percentage of already burned exhaust gasses to enter back in with the intake fresh air and that both lowers the oxygen in the mix and the temperature of the burn, thus reducing NOX.
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Old 04-01-03, 06:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Well I ran the car on the test again after driving for a good 2 hours but I failed again

The readings were as follows:
NOx ppm limit = 0443
NOx ppm reading = 1177 (yesterday's test with the stage II chip)
Nox ppm reading = 1012 (today's test with hot cat and stock chip)

EVery other reading was within spec as follows:
HC ppm limit = 60 reading = 16
CO % limit = 0.34 reading = 0.00

Is it safe to assume I have a malfunctioning or clogged EGR? Wouldn't my check engine light be coming on if I had a problem with the EGR?

Any help would greatly be appreciated

G
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WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE
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Old 04-01-03, 06:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Godfather (said with muffled Italian accent) I don't think it's your egr....heck, my car passed tailpipe emissions fine and my damn egr wasn't even functional!

You should pull the codes anyway, perhaps there's something stored in memory.
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Old 04-01-03, 06:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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IF it's not EGR then I'm clueless as to what it can be. The cat itself? That fact that I'm not running the precats (which shouldn't matter as the Type I motors don't have them and we share the same main cat). Cause if it's definetely not the EGR valve causing this, even if its clogged and not functioning, I won't even bother fixing it (they don't do physical EGR valve tests here).

I just hope it isn't the cat as that's an expensive fix

G
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189 FT/LB @ 5250 RPM
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WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE
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Old 04-11-03, 03:55 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Guys, I appreciate all the help you been giving me.

I was able to get a vacuum pump and test the EGR valve. When I tested it, the engine would run very rough and "choke" on itself. Sometime it will stall... sometimes it managed to keep running but very rough. I would put a vaume on the valve.. it will run rough... and hwen i release the vacuum.. about 5 second later it might stall. Sometime it will stall before I even release the vacuum.

Does this mean my EGR valve is working good and that my passage ways are NOT clogged?

I also atatched a vacuum gauge to the hose that activates the EGR valve and it doesn't show any vacuum readings, but when I rev my engine, I see it jump to 8 in. for a bit and then back to nothing. It usually shows a reading reving in the lower RPM band under WOT. In the higher RPM bands it doesn't activate the vacuum. Is the system operating the EGR valve properly? Should it be creating a vacuum and cutting it off on different RPMs and throttle positions?

I'm still trying to lower my NOx levels to pass emissions test. Last time I ran 1100ppm and after an oil change I was able to drop it down to 850 ppm. The limit 450ppm.

Would a non-working PCV valve have any effects on NOx levels? I squeezed on the hose and I was not able to hear the PCV valve click. Would this cause a mixture to run too lean therefore causing high NOx levels?

I was told to do the following as ways to lower NOx:

- Run METHANOL in the gas tank when doing emissions test
- hard wire the radiator fans to run constantly
- use 100% distilled water in my coolant system instead of anti-freeze/water mixture


What do you guys think? Please help me out here, I greatly appreciate it! Thanks.

G
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1995 Legend Coupe 6-speed
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208 WHP @ 6250 RPM
189 FT/LB @ 5250 RPM
MUSTANG Dyno
260,000mi and counting

WeaponR Secret Weapon Intake - Cold Air Box - Custom 2.5" stainless exhaust system - Remus Rev3 Universal muffler -SPEC Stage II clutch - 5speed flywheel - SR5GUY Chip - APEXi S-AFC - Pullies - MLS copy strut bar - Short Shifter -18" ICON W65 Wheels - KONI reds/Ground Controls - Slotted Brembo Rotors - SS Brake lines - Walbro 255 -ICE
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Old 04-11-03, 11:11 AM   #29 (permalink)
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My Legend failed emissions when I first got it (don't remember if it was NOX or not). Here's what I did.

Run the car till it was almost empty, went to Pep Boys and got 1 can of the highest priced Techron that they carried, and picked up a can of "Guaranteed to Pass". The guaranteed to pass stuff is a mix that is supposed to clean your system to allow it to pass, if it still fails, they will send you your money back.

I then went to Texaco (very important it is Texaco IMO) and filled up with the premium stuff, added the Techron and Guaranteed to Pass stuff, and ran till it was almost empty. Refilled with Texaco and tested.

Whatever my car failed on (don't remember specific gas) the level went from 1400 to about 250.

Good luck, the smog monkeys at the station were amazed at my results ('91 LS with 119k miles)
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Old 04-11-03, 12:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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jonesy,

I've heard of others doing something similar to your method, but here in California it wouldn't have helped me, since I failed the 'functional' part of the test. The EGR test entails applying 8" of vacuum to the EGR valve. If the engine stalls/stumbles, the valve is considered functioning properly and it passes. The Smog Tech applied vacuum to my EGR valve and my engine didn't miss a beat...no effect. Of course I finally fixed it (see above) and I can now pass the test no problem.

My tailpipe emissions were squeaky clean, even by CA standards and even with clogged EGR ports...
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