head gasket theory - Page 2

Seeb_95Legend · 05-02-04, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mike Diaz
I really want to do a test, take a set of head gaskets and soak one in Honda coolant, and the other in Prestone, or Zerex. and see which one breaks down the fastest. Maybe do it over 60 days and take pictures of it every 10 days. I know that's probably not the proper way to test it, but I'm sure it would show something.

I dunno it sound to me like like they wana make you buy honda brand instead something else. Have they proven this? i mean ud think that if you replaced the gasket (with one made in america) that they would make coolant (also in america) thats bad for it? it just doesnt sound rigth..... anyways in no pro. but it does sound fishy

tnelson · 05-03-04, 01:32 AM

some coolants are more corrosive, and some headgaskets are made of certain types of metals that could be reactive to the substances in the coolants.

Tinkindling · 05-04-04, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Seeb_95Legend
I dunno it sound to me like like they wana make you buy honda brand instead something else. Have they proven this? i mean ud think that if you replaced the gasket (with one made in america) that they would make coolant (also in america) thats bad for it? it just doesnt sound rigth..... anyways in no pro. but it does sound fishy

Until someone does the sort of test that Mike was proposing, we really don't know whether Honda coolant is required, or whether Honda gaskets are better.

My opinion is that until we DO know, it is cheaper to use Honda products than it is to replace a head gasket. There are differences between honda coolant and most of the others. Apparently Honda engineers took a new look at antifreeze in aluminum engines, and decided to produce a different product, rather than add anti corrosion chemicals to existing antifreeze.

**Mike Diaz** · 05-04-04, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tinkindling
Until someone does the sort of test that Mike was proposing, we really don't know whether Honda coolant is required, or whether Honda gaskets are better.

My opinion is that until we DO know, it is cheaper to use Honda products than it is to replace a head gasket. There are differences between honda coolant and most of the others. Apparently Honda engineers took a new look at antifreeze in aluminum engines, and decided to produce a different product, rather than add anti corrosion chemicals to existing antifreeze.

If you read this thread: Why you should use Honda Brand Antifreeze

It tells you why Honda coolant is different and non-corrosive like other coolants. I just replaced the radiator in my sedan yesterday. After a year of the coolant being in the system, it looked just like the day I put it in. I am a firm believer that the Honda coolant can do a lot for keeping your head gaskets intact. Other Antifreezes have silicates and borates that can damage the seals on your water pump as well as eat away at the gaskets.

PSA · 05-04-04, 03:52 AM

Never seen a hg blow that wasn't badly oheated first. 99% of the time by a bad rad. It's probably more cost efective to replace the rad than the head bolts.

**Mike Diaz** · 05-04-04, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by PSA
Never seen a hg blow that wasn't badly oheated first. 99% of the time by a bad rad. It's probably more cost efective to replace the rad than the head bolts.

Probably the best preventive maintenance for the Legend.

Tinkindling · 05-04-04, 05:02 AM

I'm still in this thread, now with a new observation. I just did a coolant change on my coupe. 92 LS, 68000 miles, and new rad in March of 2002. That rad was the Acura plastic aluminum job. I actually think this is the best rad, because it does not introduce any more metals into the cooling system, such as copper or brass.

However, I took a really close look at mine, and it is possible that it is starting to seep at the top tank crimp area, right near the rad cap. Since I just changed coolant, I am going to wash it carefully, then dry it thoroughly, and keep a real close eye on it. For what it cost, it ought to last at least 8 or 10 years!

If it is in fact leaking, I'm going to insist that the dealer replace it, and if he refuses, I'm going to push it up to the zone office of Honda Canada. I still have the dated receipt.

But, back on the main topic, I believe that the cost of the rad is peanuts compared to the cost of fixing overheating damage.

**Mike Diaz** · 05-04-04, 05:35 AM

the thing to do about the plastic topped radiator, is to remove the bracket that holds the throttle and cruise cable from the relay box. Also, you can go around the radiator with a pair of pliers and reclamp the top. That's where mine started leaking at, and I clamped the new one before it does it again.

Legendary4door · 08-22-06, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vancouver_Legend

so no one thinks that my idea of using non-stretch bolts liek the APR ones would help anything?

No.. way.. you have no idea... hahahaha
jk...
I have pieced together a hybrid motor, and friends w/ turbo setups..
and i have learned that head bolts are an AWESOME investment in stock or modified application.. yeah they are high but if logevity is your goal.. you need em!..
Like spoon sports.. for their endurance cars.. many of their mods pertain to keeping the motor supported and protected.. from the stress of endurance..

Legendary4door · 08-22-06, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinkindling

I'm still in this thread, now with a new observation. I just did a coolant change on my coupe. 92 LS, 68000 miles, and new rad in March of 2002. That rad was the Acura plastic aluminum job. I actually think this is the best rad, because it does not introduce any more metals into the cooling system, such as copper or brass.

However, I took a really close look at mine, and it is possible that it is starting to seep at the top tank crimp area, right near the rad cap. Since I just changed coolant, I am going to wash it carefully, then dry it thoroughly, and keep a real close eye on it. For what it cost, it ought to last at least 8 or 10 years!

If it is in fact leaking, I'm going to insist that the dealer replace it, and if he refuses, I'm going to push it up to the zone office of Honda Canada. I still have the dated receipt.

But, back on the main topic, I believe that the cost of the rad is peanuts compared to the cost of fixing overheating damage.

Straight up.. i swear by "koyo" radiatiors" Bang for buck.. their Oem replacemensts are off the chain!

alli babbah: says: Joo need to buy jourself one.. before i hit you w/ de camel spit!

Hotstartup · 08-22-06, 08:02 PM

04 thread. RIP.

Ken · 08-22-06, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Owned

04 thread. RIP.

lol, I was wonderin if Vancouver_Legend bought a Legend again

tnelson · 08-23-06, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legendary4door

No.. way.. you have no idea... hahahaha
jk...
I have pieced together a hybrid motor, and friends w/ turbo setups..
and i have learned that head bolts are an AWESOME investment in stock or modified application.. yeah they are high but if logevity is your goal.. you need em!..
Like spoon sports.. for their endurance cars.. many of their mods pertain to keeping the motor supported and protected.. from the stress of endurance..

Ah, spoon. Great, they take stock motors and "balance and blueprint" them and sell them for 2-3x the price. Great. No one who is not a fast and the furious fanboy actually uses spoon motors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legendary4door

Straight up.. i swear by "koyo" radiatiors" Bang for buck.. their Oem replacemensts are off the chain!

alli babbah: says: Joo need to buy jourself one.. before i hit you w/ de camel spit!

Great, thanks. You have 4 posts here, which have pretty much prove to be worthless, 2 back to back bumping a 2 year old thread. So far you have promoted spoon motors and koyo radiators. Are you trying to advertise for someone? If you are here to spam, you will be banned. So far your opinion means shit, and you have done nothing but post worthless crap.

blkonblkcpe · 08-23-06, 09:26 AM

I didn't read all the posts, so if I repost, forgive me.

I can say from experience that one Big, big. big, issue will cause a BHG. And I can say it with ONE word.........AIR! If you don't get all of it out in the first place it will own you. If you get a hole in a hose, or air enters your cooling system, and goes unoticed for some time, it will own you. I honestly believe we can overheat our cars, by, lets say a cooling fan not working, and it will be just fine. BUT, add air in the system and overheat, and your focked.

I say this after blowing a oil cooler line and driving quite a long ways not even knowing it was hot because it sucked so much air that the gauge didn't even have any water to show a hot condition. Untill I stopped at a stop sign and turned a corner, then enough water must have hit the sensor to make it jump to H. So as I said AIR will own you. Make sure your hoses are solid!

DrWho · 08-24-06, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Diaz

Here's my theory that I discussed with a long time Acura tech. There's a few reasons why the Legend engine blows head gaskets.

Theory #1. The Vibration effect - once you remove the heads, you'll notice that the cyilnder walls sit out in the open by themselves with the coolant jacket surrounding it. No structural support at the top of the cylinder walls. What we discussed was the fact that engines vibrate, and the vibration eventually eats away at the gasket allowing coolant to flow into the cylinder. Typically it does this more at the rear of the engine (#3 and #6 cylinders). Next time you're in your car, rev it up to about 1500-2000 RPM's and feel the vibration that I'm talking about. Think about that vibration happening for 100k-150k miles and how that affects this area of the engine.

Theory #2. Improperly torqued heads - We talked a little about overtorquing heads and he claims that he overtorques the C32a heads to 59-60 lb ft. The theory is that when the engines were built at the factory, the engineers of the C series engines underestimated the torque specs for the heads. The factory torque spec should have probably been 60-62 lb. ft.

Theory #3. Non-Honda coolant - Basically any non-Honda coolant can cause deterioration of the head gasket. See this post for more info: Why you should use Honda Brand Antifreeze

the tech I talked to was close to what you said there, except he said from driving and vibration the bolts loosen up over time in the back of the engine.
And you're right about not all of them having BHG problems, incorreclty diagnosed.

how and the heck do I always write to old post

05-03-04, 01:32 AM	#17 (permalink)
tnelson Pedobear is watching you Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 7,636 Car 1: 2002 TL-S, white Car 2: 1992 Corvette iTrader: (3)	some coolants are more corrosive, and some headgaskets are made of certain types of metals that could be reactive to the substances in the coolants. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feLqz1udhtY

05-04-04, 03:52 AM	#20 (permalink)
PSA Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: PA Posts: 750 iTrader: (8)	Never seen a hg blow that wasn't badly oheated first. 99% of the time by a bad rad. It's probably more cost efective to replace the rad than the head bolts. __________________ PSA

05-04-04, 05:02 AM	#22 (permalink)
Tinkindling Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Vancouver Posts: 818 Car 1: 1992 Coupe LS iTrader: (0)	I'm still in this thread, now with a new observation. I just did a coolant change on my coupe. 92 LS, 68000 miles, and new rad in March of 2002. That rad was the Acura plastic aluminum job. I actually think this is the best rad, because it does not introduce any more metals into the cooling system, such as copper or brass. However, I took a really close look at mine, and it is possible that it is starting to seep at the top tank crimp area, right near the rad cap. Since I just changed coolant, I am going to wash it carefully, then dry it thoroughly, and keep a real close eye on it. For what it cost, it ought to last at least 8 or 10 years! If it is in fact leaking, I'm going to insist that the dealer replace it, and if he refuses, I'm going to push it up to the zone office of Honda Canada. I still have the dated receipt. But, back on the main topic, I believe that the cost of the rad is peanuts compared to the cost of fixing overheating damage. __________________ 92 LS Coupe 83,000 Miles & Counting Stock except -GS RIMS -Clear Bumpers

05-04-04, 05:35 AM	#23 (permalink)
Mike Diaz WHAAAAAH! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: N Canton, Ohio Posts: 10,986 Car 1: 3.5L 1991 LS Coupe 5 Spd Blk/Blk Car 2: 1994 Civic EG Hatch Car 3: 03 Honda TRX400EX iTrader: (2)	the thing to do about the plastic topped radiator, is to remove the bracket that holds the throttle and cruise cable from the relay box. Also, you can go around the radiator with a pair of pliers and reclamp the top. That's where mine started leaking at, and I clamped the new one before it does it again. __________________ 2nd Gen FAQ \| Newbie FAQ \| Bleeding Coolant DIY \| Manual Trans Flush DIY 3.5L DIY \| Crank-No Start Diagnosis \| How I built My Legend

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread:

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
The Acura Legend & Acura RL Forum Advertisement

08-22-06, 08:02 PM	#26 (permalink)
Hotstartup Type I King Join Date: May 2002 Location: Vancouver Posts: 9,198 Car 1: 92 LS Sedan Car 2: 91 LS Coupe 5 spd iTrader: (7)	04 thread. RIP.

08-23-06, 09:26 AM	#29 (permalink)
blkonblkcpe RALPHS HANDS ARE CLEAN! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 10,034 Car 1: 91 LS Black window trim EDM/Hids Remus 2 1/2 cat back Headers stage 3 ecu Car 2: ,Red tails, Type 2 Car 3: 6 speed, EDM spoiler iTrader: (35)	I didn't read all the posts, so if I repost, forgive me. I can say from experience that one Big, big. big, issue will cause a BHG. And I can say it with ONE word.........AIR! If you don't get all of it out in the first place it will own you. If you get a hole in a hose, or air enters your cooling system, and goes unoticed for some time, it will own you. I honestly believe we can overheat our cars, by, lets say a cooling fan not working, and it will be just fine. BUT, add air in the system and overheat, and your focked. I say this after blowing a oil cooler line and driving quite a long ways not even knowing it was hot because it sucked so much air that the gauge didn't even have any water to show a hot condition. Untill I stopped at a stop sign and turned a corner, then enough water must have hit the sensor to make it jump to H. So as I said AIR will own you. Make sure your hoses are solid!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)