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Old 08-30-07, 05:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question HELP!

How much longer can I drive with this?
What is it called?
I now it is attach to tie rod end but when I searched for tie rod I only see half of it.
See pic's below and thanks alot





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Old 08-30-07, 05:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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got the same thing here. My mechanic told me it's nothing major... but i donno
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Old 08-30-07, 05:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That's a leaky rack & pinion. I believe you can buy a seal kit, but it will require the removal of the entire inner tie rod end, the boot, and I think there's a snap ring that holds it in.
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Old 08-30-07, 05:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you
Should it make a sound like two metals rubbing together when turning the steering wheel?
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Old 08-30-07, 06:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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To answer your question of "how long?" I have put that repair off indefinitely on a late 80's Accord and never had an issue. My boot was intact though and not torn like yours.
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Old 09-02-07, 11:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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two metals rubbing is your ball joints going. im doing that repair to my left side tomorrow along with tie rod ends, and left cv boot. already did it to the right (a job only to be done once in your life..... warning...) and its beautifully tight up front. once the left is done, there will be no more clicking,. or metal rubbing in your words
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Old 09-02-07, 11:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you I try doing the ball joint but that clip on it is giving me a hard time and I cannot get the special tool to take it off boo hoo.
Might just get someone to do it
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Old 09-03-07, 10:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Just make sure you keep your power steering reservoir filled as its power steering fluid you are seeing leak out. Besides making a mess you can pretty much ignore it except for the fluid level.

However when you decided to repair it, it may be easier to just replace the steering rack than trying to repair the seals yourself, plus you don't know what damage may have been cause by dirt getting into the system.

If you are going to do the job yourself, I would highly suggest you purchase "a long rack" as opposed to a short rack. The long rack will contain the inner tie-rod ends already installed. You will just need to attach the outer tie-rods.

If and when you replace the rack, loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod only enough to allow removal of the outer tie rod, after you get the rack out of the car measure the distance between the jam nuts and set the jam nuts the same distance apart on the new rack. THIS WILL NOT SAVE YOU A TRIP TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP but it will hopefully make the car drive a little better getting there as the alignment shop will be your first stop after putting the car back together. Make sure the alignment shop knows that the toe will be completely out of whack and that a new rack was just installed.

I've done two racks previously (in Fords) and they weren't too bad.
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Old 09-10-07, 05:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I end up replacing the lower ball joint, inner and outer tie rod and the torn boot (both sides) axels, upper control arms were done already so thats it
Thanks everyone,.
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