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Old 11-19-03, 01:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Honda/Acura OEM rims swap

I rarely start a new thread, so I felt this was important enough to justify me putting all this effort... anyways, I've put a lot of research into this because I plan on buying some rims for my KA7 within the next few months. I've got a couple criteria though:

1) I want something that does NOT stand out too much or is too flashy. Bling-bling chrome or anything overly shiny is definitely out. My car is pretty attractive as is (stupid clay bar/wax job)

2) I do not want anything heavy. I am a pretty performance-oriented guy, and as great as 18-inch rims are, they are probably too heavy for my intentions; and if they're not too heavy, they're probably too expensive and not even worth it.

3) I want to reduce understeer. Yeah that means I plan on having a larger contact patch up front than in the rear. There are a few ways to do this (wider rim, larger diameter rim, etc.) However it can't be like a 17 x 8 rim up front and a 15 x 6.5 rim in the rear. That's just stupid.


So that brings me to the following chart (sorry, it's all very 2nd-gen Legend-oriented).

[COLOR=dark blue]KA7 *Legend sedan*: 15 x 6.5; +65 offset; 70.1mm centerbore; 18.25lbs

KA8 *Legend coupe*: 16 x 6.5; +65 offset; 70.1mm centerbore; 20.00lbs

NA1 *91-96 NSX*: F15 x 6.5/R16 x 8.0; F+55/R+60 offset; F70.1mm/R64.1mm; F15.20lbs/R18.26lbs

NA2 *97-01 NSX*: F16 x 7.0/R17 x 8.5; F+55/R+60 offset; F70.1mm/R64.1mm; F16.75lbs/R20.85lbs

YA4 *CL Type-S*: 17.0 x 7.0; +55 offset, 64.1mm centerbore; 26.5lbs

AP1 *S2000*: F16 x 6.5/R16 x 7.5; F+55/R+65 offset; 64.1mm centerbore; F17.50lbs/R18.60lbs

BB6 *last-gen Prelude*: 16 x 6.5; +55 offset; 64.1mm centerbore; 19.70lbs

CL9 *TSX*: 17.0 x 7.0; +55 offset; 64.1mm centerbore; 21.00lbs[/color]


OKAY ~ phew. These were the only rims I considered putting on my car. I'm not a big fan of RSX rims, CRV rims, etc. although they might fit. Also, you'll notice how damn heavy some of these rims are and how they compare to the relatively lightweight S2000/NSX rims. Those're my choices. To the best of my knowledge, this chart is all accurate but if you've got a correction, by all means PM me.

Anyways, here's what I'm considering: fronts will be NA2 NSX front rims, rears will be AP1 S2000 fronts. That means my rims will all be 16-inch, but up front will have 0.5inch wider rim for more contact patch, and overall my wheels will each be about 1 ~ 3 lbs lighter (not bad considering the wheels are getting bigger overall). I'm not too sure if my offset choices will be okay, but I'll look more into it. In addition, the bigger rims mean I can put bigger rotors behind them as well; an added bonus.

Any opinions? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

*edit: thanks for the correction ChrisK ~ the NSX man speaks, FF Drifter listens*
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-Custom built six-puck kevlar clutch/Lightened (aluminum) pulleys
-[Mugen/Showa] suspension with remote-adjustable dampers
-C35A1/C32A1 hybrid swap; smog legal (by GreenLight Auto)

Last edited by FF Drifter : 11-20-03 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 11-19-03, 02:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Other than the NSX Front wheels, the other ones won't fit directly.

Hub bore is too small and must be machined. Otherwise, all the width and offset combos seems to be ok
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Old 11-19-03, 02:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah I just noticed that ~ thanks WhiteLegend. I have no problem with getting them bored out. Any other suggestions?
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-8000K HID low-beams/PIAA Spark 8000 high-beams/PIAA Plasma GT-X corners
-Type II brakes/some weight reduction/new tires every 4-6 months
-NA1 NSX wheels: Kumho Ecsta SPT 225/50V-16R in front, Kumho Ecsta ASX 205/60V-15R in rear
-Custom built six-puck kevlar clutch/Lightened (aluminum) pulleys
-[Mugen/Showa] suspension with remote-adjustable dampers
-C35A1/C32A1 hybrid swap; smog legal (by GreenLight Auto)
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Old 11-19-03, 03:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it sounds like you'd be willing to have different looking rims is that true? cause aren't you trying to keep a nice look on the legend you said?
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Old 11-19-03, 05:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I saw a ka7 sittin on chrome rsx type s rims, it looked very sharp and a bit sporty, not bling and flashy. Perhaps rims from a new accord v6 coupe (split 5-spoke), or maybe the 03 CL-S rims (split 5-spoke, don't see these often). Are you working with a budget? TL or TSX rims! Different rims in the front and back would look goofy and wierd, IMO. People would double-take and scratch their heads. Is a bit less understeer realy that important? You could put fatter tires on the front. I would consider the wheels a cosmetic upgrade, with the opportunity to cut a few lbs at best. Sounds like your serious about handling/performance. Good luck finding a combo that suits you
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Old 11-19-03, 05:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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this should be in g2 general. not performance and engine
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Old 11-19-03, 06:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You are applying lightweight car theory to a heavy car application. I don't understand how you can be so critical of wheel weight on such a heavy car....seems like ALOT of effort for a minimal gain...

Good thinking if you have a Civic or Integra though.....

But I also agree 30 pound Chrome bling blings would definitely be a major setback to performance. I would just get cheap, "lightweight" wheels....what difference do you expect it to make???
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Old 11-20-03, 07:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes, I am willing to put different rims on the car F/R. I have no problem with that ~ I just don't want anything in flashy chrome or overly polished silver. I'm not looking for dull, scratched-up rims, but just something very subtle. NSX rims and S2000 rims have somewhat the same look to them anyways ~ not like I'm putting some wide-blade rims up front and 16-spokers in the rear. I still consider wheels to be a performance/suspension-related mod first, and a cosmetic mod second. I'm a little backwards I guess.

I have access to only some of the rims above, so I'll have to search all over to get the NSX rims/S2000 wheels. I've tried CL Type-S rims already (yes, the split five spoke ones) and I was not really a fan of them. They felt noticeably heavier than the stock wheels so I put 'em right back on my girl's car

Cost is only a minor factor in my choices. I want OEM-rims because they have a tendency to be lighter than aftermarket, and although I can go all out and get Volks Racing SE37Ks or something, I want my car to be subtle (and also decrease the chances of my rims being jacked right off my car, wheel locks or not).
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-8000K HID low-beams/PIAA Spark 8000 high-beams/PIAA Plasma GT-X corners
-Type II brakes/some weight reduction/new tires every 4-6 months
-NA1 NSX wheels: Kumho Ecsta SPT 225/50V-16R in front, Kumho Ecsta ASX 205/60V-15R in rear
-Custom built six-puck kevlar clutch/Lightened (aluminum) pulleys
-[Mugen/Showa] suspension with remote-adjustable dampers
-C35A1/C32A1 hybrid swap; smog legal (by GreenLight Auto)
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Old 11-20-03, 07:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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get some racing harts or talk to jason(slammedlikeamo on aim) about some lightweight racing rims.

there are a lot that dont look flashy and might suit your taste
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Last edited by tnelson : 11-20-03 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 11-20-03, 07:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by takemorepills
You are applying lightweight car theory to a heavy car application. I don't understand how you can be so critical of wheel weight on such a heavy car....seems like ALOT of effort for a minimal gain...

Good thinking if you have a Civic or Integra though.....

But I also agree 30 pound Chrome bling blings would definitely be a major setback to performance. I would just get cheap, "lightweight" wheels....what difference do you expect it to make???
Yeah ~ but I was under the impression that "light car" theory and "heavy car" application are all subject to "general car physics" ~ ie the less rotating mass at the wheels, the better it would be for the car's handling/accelerating/braking. To me, saving just four pounds on each wheel would be FAR more effective than saving 20 pounds on the car's actual body. It's the wheels that turn/brake/accelerate, so the less weight at those rotating masses, the better.

I'm also using this to sort of test my thinking ~ even heavier, sports cars (Dodge Viper is a good example) have significantly more contact patch at the drive wheels. I know the Legend doesn't make nearly enough power to justify vastly wide wheels up front, but if it cuts understeer and contributes to a better balanced vehicle, then I'm gonna go for it.

I think my route of modification sorta parallels the path that street drag racers take: in a drag race, you want power so you go intake/exhaust/headers/cams/ECU/turbo etc., whilst still doing on-the-side mods like rims and lighting for some style-credibility on the street. My mod-plan is more like: rims/tires/brake pads/rotors and only JDM-mirrors/lighting for my style-credibilty.

My daily driving does not have too many straights. Handling is a big plus.
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-8000K HID low-beams/PIAA Spark 8000 high-beams/PIAA Plasma GT-X corners
-Type II brakes/some weight reduction/new tires every 4-6 months
-NA1 NSX wheels: Kumho Ecsta SPT 225/50V-16R in front, Kumho Ecsta ASX 205/60V-15R in rear
-Custom built six-puck kevlar clutch/Lightened (aluminum) pulleys
-[Mugen/Showa] suspension with remote-adjustable dampers
-C35A1/C32A1 hybrid swap; smog legal (by GreenLight Auto)
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Old 11-20-03, 08:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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FF Drifter, the CLS are giong to be considerbly heavier, your comparing 15 to 17's. The difference is probably 10-15lbs each wheel which is not a big deal at all. If you want to upgrade to a bigger wheel then your going to have to sacrifice a slight weight increase.
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Old 11-20-03, 08:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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also, when you heavier 15inch to lighter 17 inch rims and saves about 4lbs each, you're probably adding 3lbs each with the tires. Bigger tires are heavier than smaller tires. When I got my 17in rims, the rims themselves weighed the same as my 15in oems, but with the tires on, they were a lot heavier.
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Old 11-20-03, 08:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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As a matter of fact, I'm already looking into lightweight tires as well. Tire weights are a little harder to find then rim weights, so I'm having some trouble there. Hopefully my slightly lighter rim choices will offset the weight of larger tires. I guess my goal would be to get just more contact patch without gaining any weight in the process. The S2000 wheels and NSX wheels are actually lighter than the Legend wheels, although they are wider and have a bigger diameter.

I've been visiting a lot of Miata websites ~ apparently tire weight/rim weight is a big deal to them. although it might not make such a huge difference in our big heavy Legends....
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-8000K HID low-beams/PIAA Spark 8000 high-beams/PIAA Plasma GT-X corners
-Type II brakes/some weight reduction/new tires every 4-6 months
-NA1 NSX wheels: Kumho Ecsta SPT 225/50V-16R in front, Kumho Ecsta ASX 205/60V-15R in rear
-Custom built six-puck kevlar clutch/Lightened (aluminum) pulleys
-[Mugen/Showa] suspension with remote-adjustable dampers
-C35A1/C32A1 hybrid swap; smog legal (by GreenLight Auto)
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Old 11-20-03, 08:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have a set of 91-93 (NA1 *1st-gen NSX*: F15 x 6.5/R16 x 8.0; F+55/R+60 offset; F70.1mm/R64.1mm; F15.20lbs/R18.26lbs) NSX rims that I would sell you if you wanted them. I'll sell them to you cheap. The going rate for the 16/17 NSX rims are about $1500-$2000.

Also, don't be confused with the NA1 and NA2. All current NSXs are still G1 NSXS. NA1 is from 91-96. NA2 is fron 97 to current. The NA2 signifies the 3.2 motor and 6-SPeed trans, and that is why the 02+ still uses the NA2 even it if has different 17/17 rims. The NSX wheels are lighter than the other Honda/Acura rims because they are forged.
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Old 11-20-03, 08:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You schould take the NSX rims in the front an the rear, these are lighter as the S2000 rims. If you want you can go with a smaller tire in the rear on the same rim, but I don´t
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