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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 08-19-05, 09:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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ya know, there are studies that agree with you, and then there is experience. I came off the freeway one night in the rain and tried to make a gentle slow offramp. A truck had spilled diesel. It looked like we were going to visit a field nose first, even though I was maybe doing 30 - but the underside of the car would have been trash with all the rocks ahead. I decided to try to scrub off as much speed as possible before exiting the highway into the field. When I slammed on the brakes and ABS kicked in, the damnest thing happened - the car started steering again. Foot off the brakes and the skid resumed, ABS back on and the skid stopped. The conclusion I came to is that with the ABS, I was getting just enough dry tire to pavement contact to barely steer. Without ABS or braking the tires were riding on the diesel and water. So, that 1 time saved me more than the entire maintenance on my ABS system in 250,000 miles and 2 Acura Legends. Like you, recently I had to make a decision on whether to replace ABS parts. My modulator assembly went bad. It cost almost $1,000. I believe it was worth it for the piece of mind knowing that if I get on snow, ice, sand or diesel and water, I will still keep control of the car. As for my skills, was around SCCA racing for years and my skid reflexes are still exceptionally good. ABS is a no brainer. It doesn't take time to figure that one wheel is locked because of sand or black ice. It just reacts. Unlike a human, tt doesn't have to figure out just how much leading or trailing throttle will let the tires barley turn, it just allows it. That is what happened on the diesel and water, I was trying to feel where the skid ended and began, ABS made those calculations automatically and instantly. Also, you are getting the MAX braking on each front and both back. This means that if say the front right wants to skid and the other three don't, you get full braking from them and the MAX the front right can take before skidding. = shorter stops in a panic or slippery situation. The right front and left front each have their own modulator, and the back axles share a modulator. Acura did the work and they warranty the part for 3 years or 36,000 miles. Just like having a new car warranty almost.
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Old 08-19-05, 10:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Merlin the Wrench
Unlike a human, tt doesn't have to figure out just how much leading or trailing throttle will let the tires barley turn, it just allows it. That is what happened on the diesel and water, I was trying to feel where the skid ended and began, ABS made those calculations automatically and instantly. Also, you are getting the MAX braking on each front and both back. This means that if say the front right wants to skid and the other three don't, you get full braking from them and the MAX the front right can take before skidding. = shorter stops in a panic or slippery situation. The right front and left front each have their own modulator, and the back axles share a modulator. Acura did the work and they warranty the part for 3 years or 36,000 miles. Just like having a new car warranty almost.
I know how ABS works, and I know that it is supposedly safer.. But I own a 65 Buick that has drum brakes and no ABS. Do you think before I get in it that I say to myself "I better not drive it because it doesn't have ABS". I don't give a shizznit about my 65 not having ABS... Not having ABS is not going to stop me from driving it. . I know that my 65 is not the safest car to drive, but I drive it anyway. I know that motorcycles are not the safest thing to ride, but have riden them anyway. I know the ABS system in my Acura was put there to assist with braking, but I am not fixing it. It comes a point were as an adult you make a decision, and you live with the consequences.. Now just tell me the easy way to turn off the freakin light!! (Really the light doesn't bother me that much, so its ok even if no one tells me how to)..
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Old 08-20-05, 12:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
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like I said, put a piece of opaque tape over it.
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Old 08-21-05, 05:59 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I worked for most of a day removing the bulb from the dash of a '93 Ford Taurus and was sucessful.

However, removing the bulb triggered a bell Had to disconnect from the computer.

I have the same problem in my '95 L and I looked at the manual for a simple solution short of removing the light or disconnecting the ABS computer and really there is no other way except finding the appropriate wires leading to the light and cutting them or disableing what seems to be pin 18 and 4 of the plug-in to the computor located behind the back seat. I have not gone back there myself but since we are discussing the matter I think I will have a look-see.

Now if you had the helms manual you would of course find all this and not have to read words of wisdom from the self appointed ABS gods that have declared themselves proctectors of all who are bent on self distruction because of that lil ole lite.

I'm like you in as much I am yet to be convinced that such contraptions as tha ABS are useful.

You re-did the buick or bought it that way? Nice looking car.

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Old 08-22-05, 01:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I had a 91' with the light on. It was a peble in the caliper. It could be something that simple, it's best just to get it checked.
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Old 08-22-05, 01:29 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ack-Crawler
I know how ABS works, and I know that it is supposedly safer.. But I own a 65 Buick that has drum brakes and no ABS. Do you think before I get in it that I say to myself "I better not drive it because it doesn't have ABS". I don't give a shizznit about my 65 not having ABS... Not having ABS is not going to stop me from driving it. . I know that my 65 is not the safest car to drive, but I drive it anyway. I know that motorcycles are not the safest thing to ride, but have riden them anyway. I know the ABS system in my Acura was put there to assist with braking, but I am not fixing it. It comes a point were as an adult you make a decision, and you live with the consequences.. Now just tell me the easy way to turn off the freakin light!! (Really the light doesn't bother me that much, so its ok even if no one tells me how to)..
You could look in the manual.
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Old 08-22-05, 10:27 AM   #22 (permalink)
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i have been told that the sensor can be just "dirtyz" if that is so....how would one clean it and what would one look for? because i have the light and the guy told me it was he rear sensor....but like everything else on this car he said was wrong when i bought it i have been able to fix so i ant to see i it is just a dirty sensor or if i need to replace it...thank you for you time......if it is not dirty and i replace it.....I.E. do i I do a ECU test to see whats wrong with it?
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Old 08-22-05, 10:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SBLEGENDS
You could look in the manual.
What manual do you have that tell you how to disable the yellow ABS light???

My Acura was checked 4 years ago at the dealership as to why that light was on, I need a new ABS pump.
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Old 12-14-05, 12:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
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What manual do you have that tell you how to disable the yellow ABS light???

My Acura was checked 4 years ago at the dealership as to why that light was on, I need a new ABS pump.
Just unplug the ABS computer and remove it, less weight!
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Old 12-14-05, 12:12 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1_Hot_Legend_L
Just unplug the ABS computer and remove it, less weight!
Could you please tell us y u brought this thread back from the dead where it belongs?
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Old 12-14-05, 12:51 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I just joined the ABS light club 2 weeks ago, it bothered for a day or 2, but it does not bother me anymore, just how much the dealer wanted to fix it for....$2,800+
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Old 12-14-05, 01:01 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Could you please tell us y u brought this thread back from the dead where it belongs?
Wqas bored and looking thru threads, I just felt that I had to comment on this one!
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Old 12-14-05, 01:36 AM   #28 (permalink)
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just how much the dealer wanted to fix it for....$2,800+
Wow, all I need is a right rear wheel sensor ($107)
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Old 12-14-05, 01:41 AM   #29 (permalink)
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listen cuting wires and pulling out fuses? how can you sleep at night knowing that you disconnected a vital component in a vehicle, you want to sell. its simple, its either the wheel sensor, or the fluid level is low in the master cylinder. pulling the fuse and the abs being on only tells you that the abs system is deactivated.it could also need a brake job, and rotors.
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Old 12-14-05, 01:54 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by maracura91
listen cuting wires and pulling out fuses? how can you sleep at night knowing that you disconnected a vital component in a vehicle, you want to sell. its simple, its either the wheel sensor, or the fluid level is low in the master cylinder. pulling the fuse and the abs being on only tells you that the abs system is deactivated.it could also need a brake job, and rotors.
If it needed a brake job or rotor the ABS indicator would not illuminate. ABS indicator only illuminates if one the following components is malfunctioning:

ABS Pump
Pressure switch
Accumulator
Park Brake switch
Speed pulsers
Speed sensors
Fail-Safe relay
Accumulator solenoids
Brake fluid level switch

With the ABS system deactivated the brakes will respond like normal service brakes on a non ABS equpped vehicle. It is not a vital component on your car. ABS is just an assisted pumping action of the brakes. Having them disconnected would be like driving a vehicle that never had ABS to begin with! Also the level of the fluid in the ABS resevoir would not cause the ABS indicator to illuminate until it is completely empty! To make it simple, ABS is something that the auto manufacturers came up with to aid in a hard braking/turning situation for the average driver! In fact, in dry road conditions an ABS equipped car will take longer to stop than a non-ABS equipped car of the same size and weight. (Tested personally)
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